Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, got out and did some more work on it today and:

IT LIVES, well kinda.

So i filled the radiator and sure enough the buzzer stopped going off for one thing.

So then i tried cranking it some more, and after awhile of getting VERY close to it catching i decided that just jumping a totally dead battery was not going to cut it.

So i bought a new battery for it, hooked it up to my truck for some extra power and had a friend crank it while i shot some carb cleaner down the intake.

Well after a little bit of cranking and getting close it suddenly caught and "started" for a few seconds. After a little more playing with it we could get it runing on the carb cleaner pretty much at will.

So i decided that it was time to get the fuel system on line. So i spend the next hours or 2 tracing wires to see if the fuel pump is working, finally i just take the pump out to look at it and test it.

Turns out it is bad, so i go get a new one. Install it and.... still no pump. So i hot wired it and sure enough it worked (the old one really was bad, i tested it again). So i then start tracing wires again, and after awhile find that my EFI relay looks to be bad. I tested it per the Hyanes manual and although it clicks no power gets through.

So Thats where i am stuck right now, with a bad EFI relay, that autozone wants $100 for, i am going to call around tomorrow and see if that is normal. I did try hotwieing the pump again though to try to start it and i guess it was flooding. It would almost catch for a second then pretty much go to nothing. Then even if i sprayed carb cleaner would get nothing until i had cranked it for awhile.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

Any 12vdc relay that can flow 30 amps or more will work, you may just need to manually hook the wires up to it with slot connectors instead of the plug.

I'd check the wiring between the relay and the pump to make sure that there is continuity, as well as between the relay and it's fuse. If the relay is clicking, then chances are its making the connection. The wiring bringing the power to it or from it to the pump could very well be the problem. An easy way to test if its working is to just push the flapper inside the AFM in when the key is in the "on" position... this is how the pump gets its signal to turn on (it's airflow dependent).

Anyway, Congrats! I bet it feels good to get it working, if even marginally.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Well stupid me, i tested the wrong pins on the relay, during the night i relized this and tested it again today and sure enough. So it is good, so then I started tracing the cirect back tot he relay under the dash.

Well low and behold 1 of the wires was cut going to it. It appears that the PO's alarm had at one time been spliced into it (i need to remove the rest of the alarm). So i reconnected it and everything appears to be working. The fuel pump now works!

SO, now i have it all hooked up and go to try it:

And at first it gets VERY close to catching, then it virtually dies and just cranks and cranks. and thats where i am now.

It just cranks and cranks. I have heard about flooding issues so i diconnected the fuel pump and have cranked it for quite awhile and tried the carb cleaner again.

but i can't even get it to start with the carb cleaner now. So i pulled the plugs, they were a little wet but nothing major.

So i am pretty stumped as to why it won't do anything.

Only thing i noticed was that the crank sensor screw is not there, thus it could be off, how do you reset/check that it is right?

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I think you got pretty lied to, that engine does appear to be rebuilt but not recently.

Check the basics, fuel, air , spark... make sure your MAF is plugged in, and go from there.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, first off, I got it running!!!


First i pulled the plugs, cleaned them then put a little more oil in the holes for good mesure. Tried it again and it was better, real close to starting but just could not keep it from flooding again.

So I used a trick that some of you with flooding issue might want to keep in mind. I took the hose from my compresser and put a blow gun on it, took the airbox off and then had a friend crank it while i sprayed air down the intake, it started almost instantly!

Then i just kept it running for a few seconds then put the intake back on and it started right up and idled pretty nice actually, a little rough but i think that will even out, smoked my whole neighborhood though.

Why do you think i was lied to? Not that i disagree but want to know your reasons.

The owner of the car did seem to not "lie" per se but leave a lot of details out. the shop owner though (which i didn't really talk to until after i had to car) so far has been proven right.

He is the one that said it was on a fresh rebuild, i tend to belive him but would love to know why you think not?

Also, is there anyway to tell one way or the other? I plan on doing a compression test after i get everything back together and it has been running for a little bit (don't want all that oil in there to go into my tester).

Thanks for all the help guys!

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

The engine itself appears to be VERY dirty and seems to have been sitting for quite some time. The paint on the housings is pretty faded.. The fact that the harness was burnt and all.. Usually if certian things don't add up, you have been lied to. What color was the smoke coming out of it?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Oh, i KNOW the car has been sitting for at least a year possiblely 2. That i know for sure as that is how long the mechanic has had it.

The owner basically said, "it has been sitting for a while and rats chewed the harness, it should run after you replace it".

The mechanic said "I have had this car for a year or 2, he brought it in and had me rebuild the engine. It had had a fire (now what i didn't get was if the fire happened before or after he rebuildt it) and he bought it back to me to see why it was not running anymore. I found the harness had gone bad he didn't want to pay me $1000 to replace it so it sat"



So, i am about to head to the store to get basic tune up parts, hoses, plugs, plug wires, belts, ect...

Anything else i should change out while i am at it?

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

What color was the smoke??

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Oh yeah, it was pretty much white with just a hint of blue.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Smoke Signals 101:

Blue- Oil
White- Water/antifreeze
Greyish Whitish- too much fuel
Greyish Blueish- Too much fuel, weak oil (contaminated)

I would guess that you have the injector wires in the wrong spot, or that the injectors are damaged and open all the time. (way to much gas getting in)

You oil is probably contaminated with gasoline (smell the dipstick) I bet it smells like gas. this is causing LOW compression as the gas has washed the cylinders clean.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Well part of the oil in there is that i put oil in the rotors to help the compression, so after i get it running and burn all of that off i will see what it does.

I did check the oil and it was fine a few hours ago, so my guess is it is the ooil i put in there being bured off.

Now the injectors i don't know about, i know they are working, i just don't know if they are leaking or not. They could explain a few things if they are.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, i did some more work and a tune up on it and then started it and let it run for about 30 mins (can't drive due to no clutch ATM). After about 10 mins the smoke stopped and ran clean from then on.

So, it will now start at will, i turn the key, it comes to life! Even when hot or it has been sitting, i guess the flooding issues were either temporay or it just needed some help from the oil to get started. Whatever it was it starts PERFECT now, i am SO excited! It sounds good too.

So now the Questions.

Ok, so i got it started and it did the normal 3000rpm then drop but it only went down to 2500rpm, then idled like that for awhile. So i started messing with the TB to see if i could get it down. Well i closed it by hand and it cut the idle down to about 1500. but it would not go lower unless i held the TB closed. It looked like the TPS was holding/opening it. is that normal?

Also, as the RPM's got lower the idle got a little rough, now the timing HAS NOT been set. The screw on the crank sensor was out and i just turned it to the middle, i don't even know if the crank sensor is in right. So this could be causing the rough idle. How do you set this, both turning it and making sure it is installed correct?

The AC also didn't seem to be working. Anyone know how to check or fix that?

Otherwise, other then a few other small issues that changing all the fluids out (doing it next week with all AMSoil) might fix.


OH YEAH! I also just found an 86 TII for $250 that i am picking up tomorrow, no engine or tranny but otherwise very nice condition from the pictures. We will see tomorrow. Not sure if i am going to steal all the parts from it or drop an engine into it (either turbo or V8, don't really care, already have a rotary).

xeccentric

iTrader: (2)

i envy you. You seem to find all the come ups. hahaha

houston93rx7

what part of texas r u from?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

LOL, if you read the thread someone else asked me earlier. I am from DFW.

Well the first car was PURE LUCK, was not even looking for a car but just happen to drive by a "the Rotary Shop", so i made a quick u turn to go see what they knew. Talked to the owner for a little bit and as i was about to leave as an afterthought he says "oh yeah, that car outside that you have been pointing at is for sale for $500".

Naturally i started asking a lot more questions.

This on is also luck that no one else grabed it before i was able to. Leave in a few mins to go pick it up.

Captain_kirk

good deal on the FC btw. and good luck with the build. Im in the same condition with my FC.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Pics of the New T2? Hood alone is worth $250..

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Pics will be up soon, just got the car back a few mins ago, overall it is in pretty nice condition, just some minor body damage. The hood is a little messed up as well, not sure if it is fixable yet or not. Will look at all that tomorrow.

But i will get pictures up soon.....

Now to decide what to do with it., Turbo engine? V8 swap? Steal parts and part out/junk it?



Oh, it also had S5 tails swaped out with it...so got those free....

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, pics of the TII.






As you can see the body is a little rough but nothing major. The inside is in great condition compared to my other car.

So now what to do with it, At this point i am thinking i wil strip everything i want off it and then part out anything anybody else wants then sell/give it to a junk yard. But if someone was to talk me into dropping an engine in there i just might change my mind.

Either a turbo (i understand it had an S5 TII engine before it was pulled) or a V8, though i am leaning towards the V8 if i was to do it.

But This is all something for another thread....

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

I say turbo engine...unless of course you just happen to have a 383 lying around collecting dust....

Edit: After seeing the pictures...if you can do the body work yourself then by all means drop in a motor, but if not parting it isn't such a bad idea.

And if that is infact an 87' then it came w/ an S4 TII motor, and someone must have gone through a bit of trouble to put in an S5 Unless they had a standalone of some sort.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Yes, someone had swaped in an S5 turbo engine as well as the tails and a few other things. I will never know why the PO decided to pull the engine out of a running car like that. He sold the engine for $300 a few weeks ago, i must have missed that one.

I don't have any engines laying around but looking around unless someone knows where to get rotarys cheap, i can get a good V8 for under $500 if i look and am not picky and an LT1/LS1 for under $1000 if i really look around. The cheapest TII motor i could find is $1500 and that is being shipped, there are none to be had around here.

So with the numbers i can do the V8 for about the same price and get 2x the power.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Although I loath piston swaps (FD especially) in certain situations/locations they are more cost effective. And like you said, you have one set of spinning triangles already... Too bad its not the other way around (running TII and base N/A w/ no engine) lol

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I wish it was the other way around as well. But if it makes you feel batter i will at some point either be adding a turbo to this motor if it ends up running good or i will be swaping in a turbo motor.

How hard is it really to swap out all the stuff from the turbo car (aka, diff, and front end to the 5 lug?) to my NA? That might decide what i am going to do for me.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Before you start that thing rotate it backwards by hand a few time if its been sitting. You will want to squirt a tad bit of motor oil inside the spark plug holes to lube the apex seals a bit. Most motors that sit for a while or are freshly built will smoke on the first couple start ups/ drive cycles.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

To ball park the TPS try upping the idle and then drop the TPS signal until it lowers the idle. You can hook test lights into the green plug by the air box to adjust it.