Texas_Ace's $250 86 Turbo II Shell, " What to do with it?" Thread.
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Texas_Ace's $250 86 Turbo II Shell, " What to do with it?" Thread.
Ok, so i just picked up an 86 TII shell that had a running S5 turbo engine in it and was drivable just a few weeks ago (no idea why the PO parted them out, i would have paid him the $550 ho got for them apart for the whole car in a heart beat!)
Here are pictures:
As you can see, it is a little rough and needs some body work, the inside, though mismatched colors, is in great condition though. As well as most of the parts on it.
Now i also got my 87 NA 2 weeks ago for $500:
and it needs quite a few little parts, plus since i have the shell i would basically swap everything over, the rear end, front end the S5 tails basically the whole nine yards.
OR i could drop an engine into it. Either a turbo or V8, i don't really care but a V8 is what i am leaning towards if i do it.
So what do you think? Under the hood everything except the engine and tranny is there (the hood was hot and i didn't feel like opening it) and the stuff that was mounted to them.
So, what do ya'll think?
Here are pictures:
As you can see, it is a little rough and needs some body work, the inside, though mismatched colors, is in great condition though. As well as most of the parts on it.
Now i also got my 87 NA 2 weeks ago for $500:
and it needs quite a few little parts, plus since i have the shell i would basically swap everything over, the rear end, front end the S5 tails basically the whole nine yards.
OR i could drop an engine into it. Either a turbo or V8, i don't really care but a V8 is what i am leaning towards if i do it.
So what do you think? Under the hood everything except the engine and tranny is there (the hood was hot and i didn't feel like opening it) and the stuff that was mounted to them.
So, what do ya'll think?
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Well i don't know, that is just what i was told, i just knew that for $250 i was getting it either way lol. It could very well be a GXL.
I don't know about the Turbo drivtrain, all that is left of it is the rearend, how can i tell what diff it is?
It does have the 5 lug wheels and such, otherwise i don't know what to look for, rememeber i just got my first look at an RX7 in real life 3 weeks ago and now own 2 inside 2 weeks! and have spent a total of $750 for both! LOL
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It very well could be, i just know i looked up the vin on Carfax (had a month of it for another car so punched it in for the heck of it) and it doesn't say GXL, which is what it said for some other GXL models i looked at. It says Coupe, which is what a turbo i looked at said. So i don't know what it is.
how do you tell?
how do you tell?
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It very well could be, i just know i looked up the vin on Carfax (had a month of it for another car so punched it in for the heck of it) and it doesn't say GXL, which is what it said for some other GXL models i looked at. It says Coupe, which is what a turbo i looked at said. So i don't know what it is.
how do you tell?
how do you tell?
Also as already mentioned, there are no 86 turbos in the states.
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Easy. The first few digits of the VIN should be either JM1FC331 or JM1FC332. The 2 would mean it's a turbo. I'm thinking it's a GXL because the TII's didn't come with those wheels (but they could have just been swapped).
Also as already mentioned, there are no 86 turbos in the states.
Also as already mentioned, there are no 86 turbos in the states.
It has a voltmeter.
So yep, looks like a GXL, still happy though. lol
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At this point that is pretty much what i am looking at doing, except for the tail light part. I would need to get a real good price for them to let them go. lol
So start stripping the car down and transfering parts to my car.
What all should i transfer? and what should i not? and how hard is transfering a lot of the parts?
Also, what parts should i keep off the car just in case? AKA things that go bad easy/I can sell?
So what parts are of value on a car like this if i was to sell them (other than the tails and hood, i know those). If i could make back close to or what i paid for it that would be real good as i pretty much broke the bank getting 2 RX7's and supercharging my truck at the same time.
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Your hood is worthless, it is damaged beyond repair.
I would keep some electical bits, switches ect... Sell the spoiler, mirrors, front bumper, interior junk.. Sell me the tails...
I would keep some electical bits, switches ect... Sell the spoiler, mirrors, front bumper, interior junk.. Sell me the tails...
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op.... 2 fcs for 750 isnt bad...... the 250 was a steal.... you got s5 tails, s4 turbo side mirrors, s4 wing, turbo seats, and a turbo hood (although it doesnt appear to be in too good of shape).... but none-the-less.... you made a good purchase!
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The parts car has the 5-lug wheels... this means that it has the better brakes (4 piston vented in front vs 1-piston vented, vented in the rear vs solid). You can literally just swap suspension assemblies between the cars, just take the rear subframe (both diff's are probably NA open diffs) and move it over; same with the front hub assemblies. You could probably sell whichever drivetrain bits you wont be using, but dont expect to get much for them.
EDIT: Just saw that you said it had a turbo engine in it before. The PO may have swapped in a turbo transmission, rear end, driveshaft and rear half-shafts. These are in general bigger/beefier than the NA hardware, and are worth more. If you plan on going turbo in the future, you may want to hang onto this stuff. To tell what it is, the turbo transmission has two fill plugs on the side while the NA transmission only has one, and the turbo differential has a larger driveshaft flange and half-shaft splines. If you have the turbo transmission and differential, then most likely all the hardware is turbo-spec. If you have the turbo transmission and NA diff, then the half-shafts are NA and you have a custom driveshaft (probably from mazdatrix). If you have the NA transmission, then chances are the whole drivetrain is NA.
Usually things like unbroken interior trim pieces (the triangles that cover the mirrors on the inside of the doors, the surround for the center console, the vents, the shifter surround... all the hard plastic stuff) can be sold, interior switches and electronics, the ECU, an uncut/unmodified emissions wiring harness, sometimes the seats, door handles (especially a matched set of locks for the hatch, doors, and ignition), sometimes the interior door skins or the whole doors etc. The FTP lenses look like they're in good shape, those sell pretty regularly.
You may be able to get something for the hood, it depends how much of the stuff in the first picture is damage and how much is reflections. For $250, there is a lot on that car that you could sell to make up the price.
EDIT: Just saw that you said it had a turbo engine in it before. The PO may have swapped in a turbo transmission, rear end, driveshaft and rear half-shafts. These are in general bigger/beefier than the NA hardware, and are worth more. If you plan on going turbo in the future, you may want to hang onto this stuff. To tell what it is, the turbo transmission has two fill plugs on the side while the NA transmission only has one, and the turbo differential has a larger driveshaft flange and half-shaft splines. If you have the turbo transmission and differential, then most likely all the hardware is turbo-spec. If you have the turbo transmission and NA diff, then the half-shafts are NA and you have a custom driveshaft (probably from mazdatrix). If you have the NA transmission, then chances are the whole drivetrain is NA.
Usually things like unbroken interior trim pieces (the triangles that cover the mirrors on the inside of the doors, the surround for the center console, the vents, the shifter surround... all the hard plastic stuff) can be sold, interior switches and electronics, the ECU, an uncut/unmodified emissions wiring harness, sometimes the seats, door handles (especially a matched set of locks for the hatch, doors, and ignition), sometimes the interior door skins or the whole doors etc. The FTP lenses look like they're in good shape, those sell pretty regularly.
You may be able to get something for the hood, it depends how much of the stuff in the first picture is damage and how much is reflections. For $250, there is a lot on that car that you could sell to make up the price.
Last edited by toplessFC3Sman; 07-07-08 at 09:55 AM.
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How much you offering for the tails?
The parts car has the 5-lug wheels... this means that it has the better brakes (4 piston vented in front vs 1-piston vented, vented in the rear vs solid). You can literally just swap suspension assemblies between the cars, just take the rear subframe (both diff's are probably NA open diffs) and move it over; same with the front hub assemblies. You could probably sell whichever drivetrain bits you wont be using, but dont expect to get much for them.
EDIT: Just saw that you said it had a turbo engine in it before. The PO may have swapped in a turbo transmission, rear end, driveshaft and rear half-shafts. These are in general bigger/beefier than the NA hardware, and are worth more. If you plan on going turbo in the future, you may want to hang onto this stuff. To tell what it is, the turbo transmission has two fill plugs on the side while the NA transmission only has one, and the turbo differential has a larger driveshaft flange and half-shaft splines. If you have the turbo transmission and differential, then most likely all the hardware is turbo-spec. If you have the turbo transmission and NA diff, then the half-shafts are NA and you have a custom driveshaft (probably from mazdatrix). If you have the NA transmission, then chances are the whole drivetrain is NA.
Usually things like unbroken interior trim pieces (the triangles that cover the mirrors on the inside of the doors, the surround for the center console, the vents, the shifter surround... all the hard plastic stuff) can be sold, interior switches and electronics, the ECU, an uncut/unmodified emissions wiring harness, sometimes the seats, door handles (especially a matched set of locks for the hatch, doors, and ignition), sometimes the interior door skins or the whole doors etc. The FTP lenses look like they're in good shape, those sell pretty regularly.
You may be able to get something for the hood, it depends how much of the stuff in the first picture is damage and how much is reflections. For $250, there is a lot on that car that you could sell to make up the price.
EDIT: Just saw that you said it had a turbo engine in it before. The PO may have swapped in a turbo transmission, rear end, driveshaft and rear half-shafts. These are in general bigger/beefier than the NA hardware, and are worth more. If you plan on going turbo in the future, you may want to hang onto this stuff. To tell what it is, the turbo transmission has two fill plugs on the side while the NA transmission only has one, and the turbo differential has a larger driveshaft flange and half-shaft splines. If you have the turbo transmission and differential, then most likely all the hardware is turbo-spec. If you have the turbo transmission and NA diff, then the half-shafts are NA and you have a custom driveshaft (probably from mazdatrix). If you have the NA transmission, then chances are the whole drivetrain is NA.
Usually things like unbroken interior trim pieces (the triangles that cover the mirrors on the inside of the doors, the surround for the center console, the vents, the shifter surround... all the hard plastic stuff) can be sold, interior switches and electronics, the ECU, an uncut/unmodified emissions wiring harness, sometimes the seats, door handles (especially a matched set of locks for the hatch, doors, and ignition), sometimes the interior door skins or the whole doors etc. The FTP lenses look like they're in good shape, those sell pretty regularly.
You may be able to get something for the hood, it depends how much of the stuff in the first picture is damage and how much is reflections. For $250, there is a lot on that car that you could sell to make up the price.
THANK YOU!
I figured the 5 lug wheel parts were better then what i have and was planning on swapping them if i could just so i could use the BXL wheels and tires (they are actual decent tires vs my bald ones). Good to know i was right in thinking they could be swaped and they are better.
I am pretty sure he swapped in a turbo drivtrain, though the tranny is gone, i know it was a turbo tranny. Also, i thought the GXL's had an LSD as well? How can I tell if it has an LSD? if it does i want to swap that out for sure.
Thanks for the tis on all the other stuff, i will get what i want pulled and then part out the rest then if i am real lucky a junk yard will buy what left for $50.
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you can tell if its a working LSD by jacking up the rear end and spinning one wheel forward with the engine off. If the opposite wheel spins backwards, its an open diff (or broken LSD). If the opposite wheel spins forwards, the LSD is working. This is all assuming that the driveshaft or driveshaft flange is not moving... if the diff is in the car, just leave the engine turned off or hold/jam it in place. If it's off the car, hold/jam it in place.
OR... you could pull the car half-off the road so that one rear tire is on grass or dirt, the other is on the road, and drop the clutch. If the wheel on the road spins, the LSD is working, otherwise its not an LSD or its worn out.
Usually the LSD's have a tag hanging off of the fill bolt that say that its an LSD and to use a special type of fluid, but over time those can disappear.
Keep in mind, the diff may have been swapped out for a turbo diff, so before bolting it up to your car, make sure your half-shafts fit in it and that the holes in the driveshaft flange is the same.
OR... you could pull the car half-off the road so that one rear tire is on grass or dirt, the other is on the road, and drop the clutch. If the wheel on the road spins, the LSD is working, otherwise its not an LSD or its worn out.
Usually the LSD's have a tag hanging off of the fill bolt that say that its an LSD and to use a special type of fluid, but over time those can disappear.
Keep in mind, the diff may have been swapped out for a turbo diff, so before bolting it up to your car, make sure your half-shafts fit in it and that the holes in the driveshaft flange is the same.
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you can tell if its a working LSD by jacking up the rear end and spinning one wheel forward with the engine off. If the opposite wheel spins backwards, its an open diff (or broken LSD). If the opposite wheel spins forwards, the LSD is working. This is all assuming that the driveshaft or driveshaft flange is not moving... if the diff is in the car, just leave the engine turned off or hold/jam it in place. If it's off the car, hold/jam it in place.
OR... you could pull the car half-off the road so that one rear tire is on grass or dirt, the other is on the road, and drop the clutch. If the wheel on the road spins, the LSD is working, otherwise its not an LSD or its worn out.
Usually the LSD's have a tag hanging off of the fill bolt that say that its an LSD and to use a special type of fluid, but over time those can disappear.
Keep in mind, the diff may have been swapped out for a turbo diff, so before bolting it up to your car, make sure your half-shafts fit in it and that the holes in the driveshaft flange is the same.
OR... you could pull the car half-off the road so that one rear tire is on grass or dirt, the other is on the road, and drop the clutch. If the wheel on the road spins, the LSD is working, otherwise its not an LSD or its worn out.
Usually the LSD's have a tag hanging off of the fill bolt that say that its an LSD and to use a special type of fluid, but over time those can disappear.
Keep in mind, the diff may have been swapped out for a turbo diff, so before bolting it up to your car, make sure your half-shafts fit in it and that the holes in the driveshaft flange is the same.
Thanks i will check that out.
And also a good point about the drivshafts, i got a free extra drivsfaft with the car, though i don't know what it is for. I will check it out.