Testing Water thermo switch
06-13-06, 10:28 AM
#1
Testing Water thermo switch
I'm testing the water thermo switch per the FSM.
Heres why:
I have to start my car about 3-4 times and rough idle below 2500-3000 rpm when I cold start on a hot day. Once the car is warm, it starts right up every time and has a good idle (car has no emissions equipment) I believe this is because the water thermoswitch is reading the car as already being hot and not adjusting the idle fuel trim to compensate for the engine being cold.
Here's what I'm seeing:
The water thermo switch appears to be working correctly when I place it in a pot of boiling water.
1.6k ohm when cold,
.4k ohm when Hot (water boiling to the point that it was burning my hand to hold the thermo switch in there any longer)
is 1.6k ohms enough to provide "no continuity"?
Here's what the FSM says
Continuity: 97c (207 Degrees F)
No Continuity: 90c (194 Degrees F)
Heres why:
I have to start my car about 3-4 times and rough idle below 2500-3000 rpm when I cold start on a hot day. Once the car is warm, it starts right up every time and has a good idle (car has no emissions equipment) I believe this is because the water thermoswitch is reading the car as already being hot and not adjusting the idle fuel trim to compensate for the engine being cold.
Here's what I'm seeing:
The water thermo switch appears to be working correctly when I place it in a pot of boiling water.
1.6k ohm when cold,
.4k ohm when Hot (water boiling to the point that it was burning my hand to hold the thermo switch in there any longer)
is 1.6k ohms enough to provide "no continuity"?
Here's what the FSM says
Continuity: 97c (207 Degrees F)
No Continuity: 90c (194 Degrees F)
06-13-06, 10:53 AM
#3
Originally Posted by f1blueRx7
Nevermind, I just went back out to plug the switch back in and found that the wire on the plug had deteriorated and snapped off due to the turbo oil supply line rubbing on the back of the plug.
Derp. Fixed my own problem.
Derp. Fixed my own problem.
Ah well not entirely... anyone have a good fix Idea for the wires that are packed with expoxy like material? just dig it out and get to the wire i guess?
06-13-06, 11:28 AM
#4
Well heres how I did it.
I did it this way, and I think this should work well.
Heres the howto fix on this:
There are a few connectors around the car that have this epoxy-rubber weather/heat/elements pack plug on them. They break right at the end.
Dig out the plug with a box cutter or other weapon of choice and then cut away the end of the plug as shown here. This will allow you to strip away enough of the wire to get a good solder point on. BE CAREFUL the wire is extremely brittle. Be careful when stripping it. Also, don't bother trying to put a twist on the wire, you'll just break it. Mesh the strands together and put a healthy amount of solder on there. In this case I just soldered on a peice of small gauge wire so that I could do this job inside and then it would be easier when I went to put it back in the car. Less stress on the wire with the added slack.
Always shrink wrap your work. Don't use electrical tape especially in automotive environments cause the electrical tape adhesive will melt off in a few days.
I will use epoxy putty on the base of the wire at the plug to make sure it doesn't break anymore (well for another 100k miles hopefully
)
Hope this helps other people with similar problems.
Heres the howto fix on this:
There are a few connectors around the car that have this epoxy-rubber weather/heat/elements pack plug on them. They break right at the end.
Dig out the plug with a box cutter or other weapon of choice and then cut away the end of the plug as shown here. This will allow you to strip away enough of the wire to get a good solder point on. BE CAREFUL the wire is extremely brittle. Be careful when stripping it. Also, don't bother trying to put a twist on the wire, you'll just break it. Mesh the strands together and put a healthy amount of solder on there. In this case I just soldered on a peice of small gauge wire so that I could do this job inside and then it would be easier when I went to put it back in the car. Less stress on the wire with the added slack.
Always shrink wrap your work. Don't use electrical tape especially in automotive environments cause the electrical tape adhesive will melt off in a few days.
I will use epoxy putty on the base of the wire at the plug to make sure it doesn't break anymore (well for another 100k miles hopefully
) Hope this helps other people with similar problems.
07-05-06, 05:14 PM
#5
Driving RX7's since 1979
iTrader: (43)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
With this repair done and installed
did it for sure solve your cold idle problem??
I have this exact issue and found this thread. (thank you Search Button)
Also, where exactly is the water thermoswitch located? For reference, if it's location differs between S4 and S5, my TII is an S4.
Picture of it installed would be nice as well since you have picture posting skills.
I have this exact issue and found this thread. (thank you Search Button)
Also, where exactly is the water thermoswitch located? For reference, if it's location differs between S4 and S5, my TII is an S4.
Picture of it installed would be nice as well since you have picture posting skills.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LunchboxSA22
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
37
10-26-15 10:53 AM