rgordon1979

iTrader: (3)

I have been trying to figure out my idle problem for a while now. It seems that everyone elses problems come from a bad TPS. I tried testing mine with a volt meter, but I am not sure if i am doing it right. I used the plug with three wires (green one) that is just behind the air filter. I used the black wire as negative and one of the other two as positive. With the engine warmed up, I got around 12 volts from one of the wires and nothing from the other. If I am doing this right, I must have a bad TPS because I read that it should be 1 volt. Does anyone know if I am doing this right??? Thanks in advance for the help. I am starting to loose my patience with this.

Keith

OK, sounds to me like you are metering the test connector, not the TPS itself. The test connector is designed for lights. According to your metering, one light is on, the other is off. Your TPS is correctly adjusted! For a more precise adjustment, you can meter right off the middle wire coming from the TPS itself and engine ground. If the voltage is not 1.000 V you can adjust it for max precision, assuming your meter is digital and highly accurate. If you have an 89 or above, meter the wire coming from the middle of the higher TPS (Short Range), same adjustment applies. Have fun!

Irv, Keith's dad

RETed

http://www.k2rd.com/FC3S/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html

Make sure the TPS progresses SMOOTHLY from 1k-ohm to 5k-ohm.&nbsp NO bumps in resistance like some other have been reporting - this is enough to throw the TPS off with ANY minor changes in resistance other than linear resistance.



-Ted

rgordon1979

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I just got through testing my TPS, at idle is showed about 1.06 k-ohm and at full throttle about 4.46k-ohm. I am happy with those results at idle. If anyone thinks it could be having an effect on power at full throttle I will tackle that after i figure out the idle problem. I also tested the BAC valve by unplugging it, idle speed did go down, so that is good. Does anyone think I should go in and test it with the meter, or is it not worth it?? I was listening pretty closely to the engine tonight. It sounds like there was a leak under the throttle body, but not a vacuum leak, sounded more like a pressure leak. Can they sound pretty similar. I think I am going to test the EGR next, then I am going to tackle replacing all of the vacuum lines.
Also, could the rubber vacuum tube that connects the brake booster to the aluminum tube that goes to the engine make my engine idle rough?? My uncle told me he thinks the valve in that rubber hosing is bad which would cause the engine to always fight to keep the booster charged? Does anyone know how often this line goes bad?? Thanks for any help, it is much appreciated.
-Rob

Jahoo88

I think my TPS might be bad also. It shows 1k ohm after i adjusted it but there's a jump at 2.x ohms. It goes to 4.x ohms right away. Also when i rev the car at a steady rpm between 1.5k and 2.5k the car revs up 500 rpms and drops and keeps doing it. Is it a vacuum leak or my TPS is dead?

live4boost

iTrader: (2)

I have a spare TPS, cause the guy I bought mine from gave me a two for 1 deal. Let me know if either of you want it. I gave up with the whole testing every damn thing to do with the Idle and replaced everything and wow you wouldn't believe how many things it solved.