The resistance counts up to 19ohms and then drops stops reading.
I sat there for 10 minutes testing and poking around, WTF????????????

Car doesn't idle, TPS is set. Can't even check for vac leaks cause the bitch won't idle. Don't have ANYone to hold the idle steady. My initital set coupler is missing, I mean i can't find a single plug with two "prongs". There one with one and one with three.

I'm so pissed, wtf. God better damn it.

I'm only posting because searching and reading the FSM for the last 4 hours hasn't revealed any anwers.

 

And when I say counts it goes as this:
1_.__(multimeter without touching)
2.43
4.56
6.74
8.45
11.45
14.6
18.90
1_.__(still touching)

 

ok so your checking resistance (ohms) right? and you say its counting down? do you have the BAC powered down and isolated (unplugged) or where you back probing with it still plugged in because when ever you check ohms its got to be powered down, and you say the value is changing, when it goes to zero value is the multimeter have the OL OFL or infinate symbol on

 

Don't go into overkill on checking out the BAC. Simply unbolt it and remove it BUT leave the connector on it. Then turn the key to ON, engine not running. Go to the bac. It should be vibrating. If it is not, Make sure both wires are making contact with the bac's terminals. Got good contact? but no vibration. Suspect the transistor in the ECU is kaput and replace that transistor with one from RadioShack.

Before doing that you might ohm out the two wires point to point first. And the Black/White wire of the two should have battery voltage on it. If it does then just ohm out the OTHER wire from the bac to the ECU.

Take special note of what the post just above mine said.

 

At the bottom of this thread http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html it talks about the bac and how to replace the transistor on a series four. It's a bit on the over kill on testing the bac for being good/bad, but is very helpful if you need to replace the transistor. Cost would be on the order of a buck fifty or so.

 

I gota agree with Hailers on this. If its vibrating its probably OK. As far as checking the Ohms(if you are still worried) the best way is to get two small aligator clips and connect them to the prongs. What ever your final reading is, after its done counting, will be the correct reading. Your reading will fluctuate depending on the conection you have when you are holding it, some times it may slip for a half second and mess up the reading, so the clips are the best method.

As far as the transistor in the ECU... You really want to test it first. Check the continuity of the wires going to the ECU first. If you still have a short, you will just burn it out again. Also the transistor can be tested by most multimeters, so test that befor you started de-soldering.

But again IF it is vibrating it is probably fine.