Hondaeat-R

so i have new "stock" exhaust for my 87 se which includes the 2 Bosal mufflers and Y pipe. i don't know if the cats on the car are still good but i know i don't have $ to fix them if they're bad. i was considering hollowing out the front 2 then putting a test pipe for the main, but will this keep the 5th and 6th ports from opening? I'm going to use this FC for a daily driver type car and want reliability. anyone have suggestions for mods that'll keep reliability and money in my pocket ? I was thinking a K&N cone w/ cold air box, platinum plugs w/ bigger wires, and some exhaust work. I'm not sure what to do about exhaust, lots suggest RB downpipe and pre-silencer but i don't have 350 right now. Should i maybe just do the cold air box or is that not worth it. Bottom line, i want to have this car run as long as possible for me it's got 98,000 orig and i wanna see at least 150,000. any help is appreciated. thanks

Icemark

If you want to keep it running as long as possible, you will want to avoid any non stock tweaks... and keep it as stock as possible.

and platinum plugs will not gain you any power

Hondaeat-R

So you're saying not to do anything to it, other than full tune ups on a regular basis ? I wasn't implying that power would come from the Plat. plugs, just thought they'd be better, i guess not though. So i guess i'll just buy one of those tune-up kits from Spooledup Racing w/ all OEM parts. Are there any worth while tweaks I can do while still remaining "stock" ? Also, a Castrol synthetic oil has been used in the motor the last 5 times it was changed, should I continue to use that, or adopt something new ? i searched already & found nothing conclusive. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic in my NX2000, but I heard Castrol GTX is used by a lot of rotaries....little help, thanks a lot

Icemark

As far as longevity, there are few few changes you want to make.

I would do a full tune up (belts, fluids(including clutch/brake/coolant/oil,washer fluid), plugs, check timing, replace filters (including fuel sock and fuel filter)

I'd change the PD to a new one, and the E-shaft thermo-pellet I'd either space or replace with a bypass pellet, but other than that, yeah- keep it stock for the longest engine life.

The only advantage to platimum plugs is the plug life is a little longer. Instead of the spark plug wearing out at 10-15K miles, it wears out at 30K miles.

As far as oils, I generally recommended to change the oil every 3-5K miles on a non turbo. If you can afford to use Mobil1 or Royal Purple, feel free to go ahead and use them, however it is generally not cost effective, and will provide only the most minor increase in power (typically .5 to 1 HP) and no real difference in wear. Castrol GTX in the apporipirate weight for your starting and operating temps is just fine otherwise.

I would not continue to use the Castrol Syntec synthetic however, as it has a higher than typical ash content, which may lead to carbon and ash build up inside and on the rotor faces since a minor amount of the oil is injected into the combustion chambers.

Hondaeat-R

i already have all the filters (air, oil, fuel) I have OEM ngk plugs and wires, all accessory belts, and will change all fluids. Thanks for the oil advice. I'm unsure of what the" E-shaft thermo-pellet" is and where to find it haha. Also, is there an issue going from synthetic to mineral ? Sorry for all the questions but, i just want to be nice to the rotary.....not too nice though

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

i would do a full emissions removal, but thats just me. if you dont do that, you should at least replace all of your vac lines. that rats nest and pullsation dampener(as mentioned above) are the source of most fires in these cars.

RoughRex

No, your 5th and 6th ports would no longer work unless the test pipe is fitted with a tube to connect the split air pipe. The ports work on suction from the exhaust so, without having the split air pipe connected they are non-functional.

SpooledupRacing

if u dont have emissiones removing yoru cats is fine and should not hinder the longevity of your engine
however what everyone has said so far is 100% correct, do a full tune up including oem stat and gasket, plugs, wires, belts, oil/fuel/air filter. replace or remove the PS (pulsation dampener), check an replace andy worn or old cracked vacuum hoses (replace ONE AT A TIME).

I am sorry I dont know what the pellet it I have seen it for sale but dont know its purpose

and no going from synthetic to standard oil is fine. I agree use Castrol GTX standard oil or Mobil oil. otherwise if u are going to use synthetic oil I would only use Mobil 1 (just my preference)

Hondaeat-R

From what i've read removing the emissions stuff doesn't do anything beneficial, and when I did it on one of my sr20de's, it made the AICV get clogged w/ **** so my car would never idle again...not so good when you stall 10 times a day. I'm going to replace the FPD when i get some extra cash, but removing the emissions stuff seems pointless and gives me a opportunity to mess something up that was fine to begin with.. Am i missing something ? Is removing the rats nest indeed beneficial ? thanks guys

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

FIRE! doing it is very easy.

Icemark

removing the emissions systems will not gain you any more power (with the exception of the cats), but may lead to drivebility issues unless it is done properlly.

For example, removing the ACV on a rotary will lead to more backfires in the exhaust. While some people may think this a good thing, because it sounds cool (or whatever), it is hard on the exhaust and any passengers.

Or removing the PCV valve and feeding the pressureized oil vapor to a catch can. Now you have a can to empty and you are no longer feeding additional oil (in the form or vapor) into the intake for seal lubrication.

Or removing the BAC valve and/or cold idle assist and wondering why you have to give the car extra gas when the engine is cold or the air conditioning or power steering or even the rear defroster is on.

Or removing the air pump and either the cat converter dies early or (as in the case of a S5 non turbo) you loose all aux port and VDI operation, effectivly castrating the engine above 5000 RPM.

So the only advantage to removing the emssions parts is that it may simpifiy working on the motor, or is you have decieded that you have a race car and don't need air conditioning or power steering or an idle when cold, or the like.

adrock3217

Putting on a full exhaust wouldn't hurt reliability, though? Except for like, the fact that you would want to romp on it more <.<

Hondaeat-R

I'm not gonna touch the emissions stuff, doesn't seem worth it really. I know people are saying it could catch on fire but, if it's gonna go up in flames...it's gonna go up not matter emissons or not. I just want the car to run right as much as possible. I still want some sort of mild power mod though like a CAI box and some exhaust or something. So if i want to put exhaust on it, I have to make sure it has that air tube that opens the 5th & 6th ports ? Is there any point in getting just a test pipe ? i don't have the money for full exhaust or the money to replace stinky cats when they go bad that's why i'm think'n the test pipes

Icemark

I think you have confused the Fuel Pulstation Dampener with emissions.

The PD (short for Pulstation Dampener) commonly fails on many cars at/around 100K miles, and should be considered a manditory replacement part at 10 years or 100,000 miles. Anyone driving on a FC with a PD that has more than 100,000 miles on it, should replace the PD (regardless of engine series) with a NEW one (not a junkyard S5 one).

The PD does not relate to the emissions system, but rather the fuel system. If it fails, it leaks (or sprays) gasoline into the engine compartment usually somewhat near the exhaust manifold. This leads to a engine fire, with usually the totalling of the car (as it is not cost effective to replace the engine and do the body work to get the car back on the road).

This is also regardless of series. The S3-S6 RX-7 all use a simular type of unsealed PD. Some people will tell you just use a S5 PD because they fail less often. But that is not true. I personally have seen more S5 and S6 PDs (both of which use the same rubber diaphram design) than the S3 and S4 PDs. The difference is that while the S5 and S6 PD uses rubber to control the dampening, the S3 and S4 design uses a screw and plate. If the screw comes out on the S3 and S4 PD, the PD will eventally leak as there is no control on the dampening. The same thing happens when the S5 and S6 PD rubber tab rips.

Hondaeat-R

Nope, i know that the FPD has nothing to do w/ emissions, it lightens the shock of the pulses of fuel through the fuel rail so it's not so rough. I plan on replacing that soon, but it doesn't smell at all yet, and i'll check closer for leaks. At this point, i really want to open up the exhaust a little bit. I'm guess that the cats are close to smoked, and either way, i don't have money to buy new actual cats. This is why i want to replace them w/ something. I can get a RB downpipe and pre-cat (with air actuation piece) for $250 but want to know if theres anything else i can do. The 5th and 6th ports MUST work for me, i'm not "Jerry Rigging" anything. So my options are, buy the RB stuff w/ air actuation tube, or replace cats with generic test pipes and do a electric port activation (which seems like a headache for an impatient guy like me). i don't want to do a full exhaust mod because i have brand new Bosal mufflers and y-pipe. I just don't want cats at all, they clog, are expensive and rob the car of power. IceMark, help me out brotha hha, you seem to know a lot. thanks a lot

Icemark

well as I recall, New York as the same emissions standards as CA (if NY is not even more strict), so removing the cats will probably be an issue there. As well as cats really don't clog unless there is something wrong with the tune of the motor, or the motor itself.

A high flow cat may be a choice, but unless you want to use the air pump or exhaust to open the aux ports, yes you will have to rig something up, or use the RB pre-silencer.

Hondaeat-R

in NY any car '96 and newer has to do emissions testing, i'de only have the visual inspection and minor stuff like that, I could just cut 2 cats in half, hollow them out then spot weld them back together over the test pipes or pre silencer so it looks legit. Hmm

matts86fc3s

i hollowed out all my cats when i had my rx7... and my aux ports still worked. i put grease on the shafts and drove it and saw that the grease had smeared when the shaft moved.... so yes they will still work.... my setup was hallowed out cats and then a megan racing 3" exhuast cat back....

Hondaeat-R

Hmm. What did it sound like when you hollowed them out ? Was it "Pingy" ? How many cats are there on the FC's ? Is there a pre-cat then 1 cat, or pre-cat then 2 cats ? Like I said, my goal is to get rid of the cats (so they don't have a chance of going bad and to add a little power) and to still have 5th and 6th port function. I'm just trying to avoid spending the $ on the RB downpipe & pre-silencer. If I hollowed them out, I would have the hollow cats, then a Bosal Y pipe and 2 Bosal mufflers, I think the Bosal stuff is like OEM for the RX7.

7droptop

iTrader: (1)

i also hollowed out my cats on my 88 vert and my aux ports still worked is i understand s4 aux ports function off of exhaust velocity and not back pressure. that split air tube connected to your cat is just there to inject air into the cat so that it will last longer so you no lomger need it with a hollowed out cat or test pipe

Hondaeat-R

Hmm, that doesn't make sense though to me. If you eliminate that air tube, theres no way to get the AUX ports to open (other than electronic) no matter what. Even if you hollow out the cats, you should have to keep the air tube. Right ? Your sure the tube puts air INTO the cat ? I thought it TOOK air pressure from the exhaust when you're on the throttle and applied that air pressure to open the ports...

Hondaeat-R

i the air tube on the cat or precat ? i want to know if i could use this ....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-92...QQcmdZViewItem

Hondaeat-R

Bumping this up. Once again, my mission is to replace my cats so they can't go bad ( and for a lil' more HP). I'de like to run the stock exhaust manifold, with test pipes replacing the cats, pre cats, whatever...then have it hook up to my OEM replacement Bosal exhaust ( 2 mufflers and Y pipe.) The issue is still, how will I get the 5th and 6th ports to still function ? I don't want to hollow out the cats really because it seems like it would sound very "tinny". I also don't want to rig up a electric port activation system, looks like a pain. Is there anything I can do besides buy a RB pre-silencer & all that ? In NY, i'll only have to pass visual inspection, and sometimes not even that Help me out guys, i'de appreciate it. What's a way I can replace all of my cats and still allow 5th and 6th port use ?

Icemark

Bumps are forbidden here in the 2nd gen technical section.

And it was explained pretty damm clear I thought.

Aux ports are opened by exhaust volocity. If you put an improper sized exhaust on the car, the ports won't work. If you remove the main cat and do not put something that has a connection for the fresh air pipe that is instream of the exhaust flow, then the aux ports won't work.

So, I am not sure why you are not getting this. You will need either the RB pre-silencer or a custom cat replacement that has a up stream facing input for that air pipe, as well as the proper sized cat back exhaust to make the aux ports work like stock.

Now does anything need more clarification on this??? Is there anything still not clear???

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

RX7.com has a racepipe they sell for $160 for a S4 NA. I deletes all cats and has a presilencer. I assume thats sort of what your looking for? If all you had to pass is visual and u want to be a dick, just tack the heat shield off of a cat over the presilencer. http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fcindex.html