TB Mod. What to remove
#1
TB Mod. What to remove
TB Mod. What to remove
Guys,
I'm doing a TB mod on my spare TB. I run full emissions but will be removing my ACV since I will be running a Full To4B.
What can I take of the TB without effecting Idle and Driveability??
there is the whole wax idle thing that is connected to the first throttle plates. Do I need this since I'm removing the first throttle plates?? It looks like it holds Idle and also and Idle stop. From the picture I have seen it looks like it was removed.
thanks
Ian
Guys,
I'm doing a TB mod on my spare TB. I run full emissions but will be removing my ACV since I will be running a Full To4B.
What can I take of the TB without effecting Idle and Driveability??
there is the whole wax idle thing that is connected to the first throttle plates. Do I need this since I'm removing the first throttle plates?? It looks like it holds Idle and also and Idle stop. From the picture I have seen it looks like it was removed.
thanks
Ian
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
You can remove the 2ndary throttle plates (the top ones, where there is no bottom one) and anything connected to them (vac actuator and valve).
that is the only thing that you can do that does not effect driveability and idle.
If you remove the thermowax assembly on the back, you won't have a cold start high idle (the cold start 1200 RPM idle that lowers as the engine temp comes up).
that is the only thing that you can do that does not effect driveability and idle.
If you remove the thermowax assembly on the back, you won't have a cold start high idle (the cold start 1200 RPM idle that lowers as the engine temp comes up).
#4
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well basically when you remove the thermowax you will also remove coolant flow through the throttle body itself.
this does, a) remove hot coolant through TB which will let your intake air be cooler. b) removes cold start (3000rpm idle) but you must hold on to the accelerator for about 30 seconds if you have bad weather until your engine is at normal operating temp then your idle will be fine.
you can also remove the dash pots which actually just slow the throttle from decelerating as fast it can. visit the link in my sig. there is a link to a how to.
this does, a) remove hot coolant through TB which will let your intake air be cooler. b) removes cold start (3000rpm idle) but you must hold on to the accelerator for about 30 seconds if you have bad weather until your engine is at normal operating temp then your idle will be fine.
you can also remove the dash pots which actually just slow the throttle from decelerating as fast it can. visit the link in my sig. there is a link to a how to.
#6
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iTrader: (1)
IAN, simply remove the Secondary Plates...the ones closest to the Air Inlet Duct. That Is where your gains are anyway. I did It like so and find no Idle/Drivabilty complications whatsoever.
Was I talking to you about removing various Engine components, along with your friend, at the Ottawa meet?
Was I talking to you about removing various Engine components, along with your friend, at the Ottawa meet?
#7
Originally posted by silverrotor
IAN, simply remove the Secondary Plates...the ones closest to the Air Inlet Duct. That Is where your gains are anyway. I did It like so and find no Idle/Drivabilty complications whatsoever.
Was I talking to you about removing various Engine components, along with your friend, at the Ottawa meet?
IAN, simply remove the Secondary Plates...the ones closest to the Air Inlet Duct. That Is where your gains are anyway. I did It like so and find no Idle/Drivabilty complications whatsoever.
Was I talking to you about removing various Engine components, along with your friend, at the Ottawa meet?
I wonder if I hurt the Idle wax thing since I dropped the whole part in the parts cleaner Just trying to make the unit look simple and cleaner.
thanks,
Ian
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#8
Brother of the Rotary
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by IAN
Yup you were talking to me.... I was with John. Looking at your FD alternator
I wonder if I hurt the Idle wax thing since I dropped the whole part in the parts cleaner Just trying to make the unit look simple and cleaner.
thanks,
Ian
Yup you were talking to me.... I was with John. Looking at your FD alternator
I wonder if I hurt the Idle wax thing since I dropped the whole part in the parts cleaner Just trying to make the unit look simple and cleaner.
thanks,
Ian
I wouldn't worry about idle and cold start issues with an EMS, since you can adjust parameters to compensate.
Silverrotor: I'm the other guy that was checking out your car...
#10
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Originally posted by Lazy-Rx7
this does, a) remove hot coolant through TB which will let your intake air be cooler. b) removes cold start (3000rpm idle) but you must hold on to the accelerator for about 30 seconds if you have bad weather until your engine is at normal operating temp then your idle will be fine.
this does, a) remove hot coolant through TB which will let your intake air be cooler. b) removes cold start (3000rpm idle) but you must hold on to the accelerator for about 30 seconds if you have bad weather until your engine is at normal operating temp then your idle will be fine.
#12
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A custom bracket to mount to Haltech's TPS isn't hard no make. The trick is to make it out of thich (3-4mm) aluminium so it can't flex. A few people have posted pics of their brackets. Search the 2nd gen and EMS sections.
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