TB Mod question
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From: Orlando
TB Mod question
From Ted's site....
Why can't you just cap off these two? Is this going to have any negative effects?
you can run a hose from the rear engine housing to the back of the water pump housing which will bypass the stock BAC valve
My cars louder than yours
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta, GA
on a few blocks that i have seen they do retrace to the source on the blocks/ water pump housing (correct me if im wrong) with a cap, but there is a BAC (again, correct me..) on the back of the dynamic chamber that uses the coolant, so you have to connect the two lines so that, that valve gets the coolant. i hope this made sence, im so gone. 
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Arlington, VA
I dont think you can cap them because you need the return to the water pump housing.
You can use the hose that usually runs between the water pump housing and the BAC, it should be a close fit on top of your primary injectors.
It worked great for me.
Chris
You can use the hose that usually runs between the water pump housing and the BAC, it should be a close fit on top of your primary injectors.
It worked great for me.
Chris
I'm a boost creep...
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
This question has been hotly debated before...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=56599
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=56599
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HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
I just looked at a rear housing for a n/a and the rear rotor housing. It looks to me, that if you block that nipple on the rear housing, that you leave a pocket where the water does not really flow. Its a pocket that runs to the rear oil injector, but there is no outlet for the water to flow. I don't have a turbo apart so I can't say what it looks like. In that area on a n/a there is the aux actuator sleeve that runs in that very area. On a turbo maybe there is an outlet for that *pocket*. On the other hand I can remember in the past seeing *pockets* that did not seem to have an outlet for flowing water. So this post is a wash.I like my thermowax and fast idle, so I don't have to even think about such things.
I'm a boost creep...
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Originally posted by HAILERS
It looks to me, that if you block that nipple on the rear housing, that you leave a pocket where the water does not really flow.
It looks to me, that if you block that nipple on the rear housing, that you leave a pocket where the water does not really flow.
I like my thermowax and fast idle, so I don't have to even think about such things.
Well none flowing "pockets"may or may not be a problem.There is one in the front rotor housing of a TII where water would be supplied to the turbo if it were a rear housing.The last one I pulled apart had great gobs of phosphate deposits in it.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Yo! Six Rotors, you woke me up. Yeah. I've torn down a few engines and what I'd see was some deadend pockets that looked like someone had poured some kinda stop leak in the engine at some time and it was still there in the *pocket*. That said, if it was my car I'd run the hose from rear housing to the water pump housing. Hey, I'm timid.
i just did the t/b mod...but i just took the plates off and the rod that they were hooked to and plugged that hole...whats suppost to be the differants...do i have to compete the mod and take everything out or can i just leave it like that...
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: usa
I just did this along with several other "stripdown mods". I capped off both my lines, and the car runs fine...if anything, maybe a tad cooler, but it was a cooler day today so I dunno.
FWIW I took off EVERYTHING...there is a TPS, intake air sensor, knock sensor, and 4 injectors on this engine block...everything else is GONE, right down to the OMP system...straight premix for me. I did the TB mod too, and open-air vented my BOV. That thing sounds killer! I also did a nice TID mod ad cone filter.
Surprisingly the engine fired up and ran well after I found my small vacuum leak. I have a damn near steady 800 idle, as good as ANY rx-7 Ive ever had yet. Surprised the **** out of me. ITs as good or better than it was stock, and it seems to accelerate smoother, that's no ****. Deceleration I get usual popping and stuff, but nothing real bad at all...nothing you dont get *anyway* when you put on a DP and MP, which I already had, so it isnt much different. Hell, even when turning the steering and pushing the brake with the lights on, it didnt step below 750 at all.
I highly recommend this for those of you who wish to *work* on your own car. IF you just want to drive it then leave it alone.I did it to clean **** up.
FWIW I took off EVERYTHING...there is a TPS, intake air sensor, knock sensor, and 4 injectors on this engine block...everything else is GONE, right down to the OMP system...straight premix for me. I did the TB mod too, and open-air vented my BOV. That thing sounds killer! I also did a nice TID mod ad cone filter.
Surprisingly the engine fired up and ran well after I found my small vacuum leak. I have a damn near steady 800 idle, as good as ANY rx-7 Ive ever had yet. Surprised the **** out of me. ITs as good or better than it was stock, and it seems to accelerate smoother, that's no ****. Deceleration I get usual popping and stuff, but nothing real bad at all...nothing you dont get *anyway* when you put on a DP and MP, which I already had, so it isnt much different. Hell, even when turning the steering and pushing the brake with the lights on, it didnt step below 750 at all.
I highly recommend this for those of you who wish to *work* on your own car. IF you just want to drive it then leave it alone.I did it to clean **** up.
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