TB mod-JB weld or threaded plugs?
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TB mod-JB weld or threaded plugs?
i'm sure this issue has been answered countless times, but i want to make sure i understand everything about the mod before i start... i have been referring to RETed's FC3S Pro site's section on TB mod. my question is which way is better for plugging the shaft holes up? epoxy (JB weld) use or tap/plug method? also, if taking the epoxy route, do the whole shaft hole need to be filled w/ epoxy? or just enough to seal the holes on both sides? finally, the last step of the mod is to reroute that 90deg coolant hose... FC3S Pro site provides two choices, run a hose from the engine to the BAC valve (not yet knowledgeable to know its function) or bypass it all together.. which way is better? i think it serves an emission purpose, but not sure...
my 10th anniv. is lightly modded, in need of some fine fuel/ignition tuning, and clogged up precat n cat( this problem will be dealt with racing dp and stright pipe soon, hopefully... will be removing the air pump this weekend while doing the TB mod (belt already been cut off, lol).. also planning on cleaning the AFM and TID mod... any other DIY projects (low/no cost) i should look into while i'm doing the aboce mods?? thanks in advance.
eddie
my 10th anniv. is lightly modded, in need of some fine fuel/ignition tuning, and clogged up precat n cat( this problem will be dealt with racing dp and stright pipe soon, hopefully... will be removing the air pump this weekend while doing the TB mod (belt already been cut off, lol).. also planning on cleaning the AFM and TID mod... any other DIY projects (low/no cost) i should look into while i'm doing the aboce mods?? thanks in advance.
eddie
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1) Unless you just happen to have a tap and the right plugs laying around, lay some tape on the inside of the TB, covering the hole. Fill the hole with JB weld. Tape the other side. (Use good tape, please) Repeat for other side. Let sit for 24 hrs. Enjoy.
2) You should also do an emissions removal mod. Write up here: http://devils.eng.fsu.edu/~bmatt/RX-7/emissions.html . Ignore the ugliness. If you need tech support, I'm No7Yet on EFNet #rx7.
Brandon
2) You should also do an emissions removal mod. Write up here: http://devils.eng.fsu.edu/~bmatt/RX-7/emissions.html . Ignore the ugliness. If you need tech support, I'm No7Yet on EFNet #rx7.
Brandon
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Brandon,
thanks alot for the info. will be performing the TB mod tom. now i've read over the write up, twice, but it only confused me. so here it goes.
for the TID mod, is the nipple for the PCV neccessary on the TID? if not, what would i do with the PCV vaccum line, just plug it up? or could i just add an air breather at the end of that line and mount it somewhere on in the engine bay (guess it would only make things more complicated.
and with the air pump,after the removal, are there any lose hose/line i must take care of/plug up? as of right now, there is no belt running the air pump...
think i'll stop there, dont want to get too ahead of myself...
so my plan for tom and sun is, the TB mod, TID mod, and removal of air pump... once again, thanx
eddie
thanks alot for the info. will be performing the TB mod tom. now i've read over the write up, twice, but it only confused me. so here it goes.
for the TID mod, is the nipple for the PCV neccessary on the TID? if not, what would i do with the PCV vaccum line, just plug it up? or could i just add an air breather at the end of that line and mount it somewhere on in the engine bay (guess it would only make things more complicated.
and with the air pump,after the removal, are there any lose hose/line i must take care of/plug up? as of right now, there is no belt running the air pump...
think i'll stop there, dont want to get too ahead of myself...
so my plan for tom and sun is, the TB mod, TID mod, and removal of air pump... once again, thanx
eddie
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For the PCV, either leave it open or put a catch can on it (that's in the writeup )
The airpump is only connected to two things - the ACV and the airbox. You're removing both.
Brandon
The airpump is only connected to two things - the ACV and the airbox. You're removing both.
Brandon
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There's a big long thread about the TB mod, and if search weren't br0ked, I'd bitch at you to read it. Basically, the detriments of the cold start system are many, and its gains are few. Remove it and remove several potential points of failure.
Brandon
Brandon
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now i'm gonna start sounding like a dumbass.. ok, i no there is a 1/2" hose running from the back of my cone filter adpater to the air pump... what would i do with the hose/the opening in the adapter? wouldnt this have to be plugged up since the hole would suck in dirty air right behind the fiter itself? and what is an ACV and its purpose? sorry, i just started at a mechanic, no, "automotive technician" school-licoln tech, so i'm eager to learn wait.. ACV, does it inject air into the cat? and when/how exactly am i removing it? after the air pump?
I did read a long thread on TB mod earlier started by christi, i think... i intend to do the full TB mod. it gets cold here in MD, but couple minutes extra to warm the car up doesnt bother me... in fact, i want to take the TB out and get familiar with it.... and i dont have to deal with emission for at least another yr n half, so most, if not all, of the emissions garbage will be removed..
and one last thing.. i wanna clean my AFM also.. and i was wondering if spraying brake cleaner into the AFM is safe.. i clean my spark plugs with the stuff, so i'm assuming its ok in the engine.... but u know u make an *** outta U n ME when u assume, so here i am... is it safe to use brake cleaner to clean AFM?
thanks to all you fellas,
eddie
I did read a long thread on TB mod earlier started by christi, i think... i intend to do the full TB mod. it gets cold here in MD, but couple minutes extra to warm the car up doesnt bother me... in fact, i want to take the TB out and get familiar with it.... and i dont have to deal with emission for at least another yr n half, so most, if not all, of the emissions garbage will be removed..
and one last thing.. i wanna clean my AFM also.. and i was wondering if spraying brake cleaner into the AFM is safe.. i clean my spark plugs with the stuff, so i'm assuming its ok in the engine.... but u know u make an *** outta U n ME when u assume, so here i am... is it safe to use brake cleaner to clean AFM?
thanks to all you fellas,
eddie
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Originally posted by RexRyder
DO NOT USE JB WELD, my frend used jb weld, then had hi idle. he took out the TB and the JB wasnt there nemore? use 1/8" NPT taps and plugs.
DO NOT USE JB WELD, my frend used jb weld, then had hi idle. he took out the TB and the JB wasnt there nemore? use 1/8" NPT taps and plugs.
Originally posted by No7Yet
1) Unless you just happen to have a tap and the right plugs laying around, lay some tape on the inside of the TB, covering the hole. Fill the hole with JB weld. Tape the other side. (Use good tape, please) Repeat for other side. Let sit for 24 hrs. Enjoy.
1) Unless you just happen to have a tap and the right plugs laying around, lay some tape on the inside of the TB, covering the hole. Fill the hole with JB weld. Tape the other side. (Use good tape, please) Repeat for other side. Let sit for 24 hrs. Enjoy.
just outta curiosity, how much would a 1/8" tap cost? cuz i'll probably never use it again for other purposes, rite?
eddie
#11
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Jb weld can and has failed period end of story . plugs if done correctly can not fall out and get sucked in ,, if done correctly. They can be made to be flush with the inside for good flow if you just think it out and do it right, good skill to you.
#13
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JB Weld will work just fine of you use it properly. Make sure that the hole you are plugging is as clean as possible!!! This is very important, as even the slightest bit of dirt or grease may cause the JB weld to not stick good enough. Id run a little bit of sandpaper back and forth in the hole a few times. Also make sure you mix it properly, and allow enough dry time, and you will be just fine using JB Weld. I've used it a couple places in my IM, and on the TB, and it is fine. You just need to take the time to prep the area and use the stuff properly.
#14
Haven't we ALL heard this
Originally posted by silverrotor
You could alternatively just remove the Secondary Throttle Plates and still experience the gains of the TB Mod. Doing this will not effect your Cold Start and can be performed while the TB Is still In place. I did It and can't complain.
You could alternatively just remove the Secondary Throttle Plates and still experience the gains of the TB Mod. Doing this will not effect your Cold Start and can be performed while the TB Is still In place. I did It and can't complain.
James
Oh, I used jb weld. Let it dry for days and it has been in for about 6000 miles now.
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No, do NOT use JB Weld, thats just asking for it. It takes maybe 5 minutes tops to tap and install the plugs, and the plugs are maybe a dollar or two.
And don't forget the teflon tape for the plug threads.
And don't forget the teflon tape for the plug threads.
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Asking for what, exactly? I've seen more JB welded TBs than I care to mention in one list, and they were all doing just fine. Not everyone has a tap set laying around, and JB weld does the trick, and best of all looks completely stock after it dries - its color almost exactly matches the TB's alum.
For James, the secondary throttle plates are there to smooth on/off throttle transitions and, yes, to keep idiots from romping on the car too hard when it's cold. The high cold idle (cold start assist system) is generally also removed, but alters the behaviour of the primary throttle plate.
Brandon
For James, the secondary throttle plates are there to smooth on/off throttle transitions and, yes, to keep idiots from romping on the car too hard when it's cold. The high cold idle (cold start assist system) is generally also removed, but alters the behaviour of the primary throttle plate.
Brandon
#17
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If you have a dremel, use JB Weld (or, better yet, Magnum Steel)
Scuff up the inside of the holes, clean them really well (there's a rubber o-ring in one of them) and just fill it as much as you can (pushing with 1 finger on each side, to fill all the little cavitys). I've TRIED to get the M.S. out, I've gone as far as heating the TB (to make sure the expansion points of the materials arn't too far apart) and pushing on it as hard as I can.
I'm sure JB weld (& M.S.) is FINE to use, just prepare the surface you're about to apply it to the best you can. The cleaner, and more scuffed, the better.
Scuff up the inside of the holes, clean them really well (there's a rubber o-ring in one of them) and just fill it as much as you can (pushing with 1 finger on each side, to fill all the little cavitys). I've TRIED to get the M.S. out, I've gone as far as heating the TB (to make sure the expansion points of the materials arn't too far apart) and pushing on it as hard as I can.
I'm sure JB weld (& M.S.) is FINE to use, just prepare the surface you're about to apply it to the best you can. The cleaner, and more scuffed, the better.
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Sucking in the JB Weld does happen. I'd rather spend whatever paltry sum a tap set is, then also have the benefit of having that tool around in the future, and do it right the first time.
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well, i didnt get to work on the car today, inclement weather... now, i'm leaning towards the tap. i thought it would be at least $20... not worth for one use... if it's under 10 as someone said earlier, i'll take the tap/plug route.... i got other things to worry about than a piece of set jb weld in my tb... peace
eddie
eddie
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If it was timed right, it could cause one of the sets of throttle plates to be blocked open, or other than that, it would be sucked into the rotor housing where it would probably be crushed between the rotor and housing which would almost certainly not be good for a few things.
Hopefully there would be minimal damage and it would shoot out the exhaust instead of sticking around for a few more laps.
Edit - if it was a TII and it happened under boost, it would just pop out of the TB instead of being sucked in.
Either way, at least on a TII, the engine would barely run or stall from such a large hole in the intake.
Hopefully there would be minimal damage and it would shoot out the exhaust instead of sticking around for a few more laps.
Edit - if it was a TII and it happened under boost, it would just pop out of the TB instead of being sucked in.
Either way, at least on a TII, the engine would barely run or stall from such a large hole in the intake.
Last edited by Geoffman72; 12-14-02 at 06:58 PM.
#22
Originally posted by Geoffman72
No, do NOT use JB Weld, thats just asking for it. It takes maybe 5 minutes tops to tap and install the plugs, and the plugs are maybe a dollar or two.
And don't forget the teflon tape for the plug threads.
No, do NOT use JB Weld, thats just asking for it. It takes maybe 5 minutes tops to tap and install the plugs, and the plugs are maybe a dollar or two.
And don't forget the teflon tape for the plug threads.
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Originally posted by 1Revvin7
Exactly, if you gonna do things do them right.
Exactly, if you gonna do things do them right.
"good stuff, now, can u tell me where i can find a threaded plug for the tap?"
most of them did not know what i was talking about.. i even mentioned the "Aeroquip" plugs... but nothing.. one of them did show me some wooden plugs..lol
imma have to go back out tom morning for the plugs, teflon sealant, and the 5/16 hose... i know i can get the teflon n the hose with no prob, but i dont feel like spending my sunday morning searching for the plugs... so can anyone tell me what the threaded plugs are used for mainly? in plumbing? better yet, wat section in home depot did u guys find the plugs? i've checked the aisle with nuts, bolts, screws, nails, etc.. not there.. the people that work there arent much of a help, i've learned tonite..
peace,
eddie
#24
Im a tall midget.
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I bought my tap and plugs at a small hardware store since this particular one has more stuff and service is better. I found them in the plumbing section. Theyre small plugs with a hole for a hex key on top. Lucky for me I bought 4 of them because I sold my old FC and wanted to do the TB mod on my new car. Those extra ones saved me a trip to the store.
#25
"Edit - if it was a TII and it happened under boost, it would just pop out of the TB instead of being sucked in."
hmm......wouldn't it actually be blown INTO the engine under pressure (boost) instead of "popping out"?
Todd
hmm......wouldn't it actually be blown INTO the engine under pressure (boost) instead of "popping out"?
Todd