RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

I have searched for the answers but am still unclear on a few things....

Want to do away with all the bs so that includes as many vacuum solenoids as possible. I know I need the twin scroll solenoid, but it is plumbed into two or three other solenoids (switching solenoid and pressure reg soloid and maybe the egr soleoid) via a check valve. Can i bypass the check valve? What other options are out there?

Can you replace the BAC with a block off plate after the TB mod? No A/C or any other accessory drains on the motor.

Can the coolant line from the back of the water pump now be plumbed into the nipple that is on top of the block and under the maifold? Of couse this is assuming the acv can be removed after the TB mod.

Have made block off plates for ACV, EGR, and the split air pipe. Any comments or suggestions pertaining to these would be appreciated.

Sorry for the long post and repetetititveve q's

Silkworm

Well, it's certainly easy enough to put the BAC back if you find that it's a pain to run without it. Either case, the coolant lines aren't really necessary for the BAC, so yes, you can route the water line from the nipple on the block up to the back of the thermostat housing.

Dunno about the solenoid, since I've got an NA racecar.

Blockoff plates should work fine, seal them with some RTV to avoid vac leaks (copper RTV in the case of the split air pipe on the cat)

PaulC

Keith

You need the check valve, if it is not in there the switching actuator will open as soon as you floor it rather than at a specific rpm. Just go directly to a vacuum source, you should have a bunch available from removal of all the other things.

Irv, Keith's dad

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

Just to make sure, I can forget about the twin scroll solenoids connection with the other solenoids altogether and just hook up the previous vac lines to any vac source?

Also, to back up a step, since I have removed all the emissions, can I actually get rid of the vac solenoids (with the exception of the twin scroll actuator)? Any problems related to this?

Keith

Only solenoid that you might want to keep is the pressure regulator solenoid valve. This valve will put the injection pressure regulator in high pressure mode for 90 seconds on a warm engine. I believe this is to get rid of vaporized fuel in the hot fuel rails. If you don't think this is necessary, you don't need the solenoid, just connect the pressure regulator (on the primary injector fuel rail) directly to engine vacuum.

For the twin scroll solenoid, you need to connect engine vacuum through the check valve to the solenoid. That should fix ya right up.

Irv, Keith's dad