TB Mod...
#26
I thought the TB mod would cause problems on cold start as well given my current location. However i found absolutly no problems after doing the mod. You just have to be sure to let the car warm up before ripping on it. The longer I own my T2 the more I realize in order to make my car run properly and reliably I have to rip out just about everything Mazda put in.
#27
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Originally posted by HAILERS
NZ...that was a very good explanation. Now can someone tell me just how the green check valve works in the scheme of things?
NZ...that was a very good explanation. Now can someone tell me just how the green check valve works in the scheme of things?
#28
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Originally posted by Jimmy325i
My car doesn't idle for **** when its cold. You have to keep it above 1500rpms till it warms up or it'll choke on you immediately.
My car doesn't idle for **** when its cold. You have to keep it above 1500rpms till it warms up or it'll choke on you immediately.
I did run the TB mod with all rear crap attached and just the front hole plugged successfully for a couple months. I waited till I pulled my motor to tap and plug the coolant lines at the block and water pump housing and pull the remaining garbage off the rear of the TB housing.
NZ, as for the screw heads causing more turbulence than big slotted recesses in that rod... No way man. Those passages left by the butterflies and the rod it self cause a hell of a problem for smooth air flow.
Do what you want with your car. I'm just trying to make every 7 in the world faster.
#29
SOLD THE RX-7!
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I just got my BDC TB yesterday in the mail I think I'm gona miss the thermowax, which is why the stock TB will stay on till end of winter
http://www.1300cc.com/TB/
I was also planing on just blocking off the coolant line at each end. why do people still run it from front to back???
http://www.1300cc.com/TB/
I was also planing on just blocking off the coolant line at each end. why do people still run it from front to back???
#30
HAILERS
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NZ....OUCH! I understand now. Here was my problem. I put the check valve b/t the double throttle diaphram and the water thermo. That is how its done on a n/a. Except on a n/a its a DElay VAlve. Why did I put it there? Because the turboii I have was a salvage vehicle that I bought. It was salvage because it had had a pd fire,plus the joke who owed it briefly before me was a two legged disaster, as a mechanic and muddled up a number of things.
So when I rebuilt the engine and replaced the burnt hose and injectors etc, I put the check valve where it was on a n/a engine (no picture available in the 87fsm) and I didn't realize for sometime that it was not a delay valve, but a check valve. It got removed early on because I said to myself "this is nuts and does not make sense". So it got tossed in the back of the shed. But Its always bugged me how that check valve could possibly work. Now I know. It does not go b/t the water thermo and the double throttle diaphram....it goes b/t the source of vac and the water thermo. Thank you. P.S. Sorry, Christi, to have done this question on your thread. Just saw an oportunity to get an answer to my question.
So when I rebuilt the engine and replaced the burnt hose and injectors etc, I put the check valve where it was on a n/a engine (no picture available in the 87fsm) and I didn't realize for sometime that it was not a delay valve, but a check valve. It got removed early on because I said to myself "this is nuts and does not make sense". So it got tossed in the back of the shed. But Its always bugged me how that check valve could possibly work. Now I know. It does not go b/t the water thermo and the double throttle diaphram....it goes b/t the source of vac and the water thermo. Thank you. P.S. Sorry, Christi, to have done this question on your thread. Just saw an oportunity to get an answer to my question.
#31
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NZ, My secondary throttle plates worked just fine prior to my removing them. It runs great in the summer. Fire it up and she'll stay runing all day long. It's only in the 40's that it doesn't like idling cold. (thats what 4x4 trucks are for here in MN)
Now that I've run the TB mod, I'll be designing a single plenum upper intake manifold and converting to a single butterfly TB. I suppose I should really decide if I'm gonna do the turbo conversion (nowhere near stock) before making my new plenum though huh? Makes a big difference where the plumbing goes.
Now that I've run the TB mod, I'll be designing a single plenum upper intake manifold and converting to a single butterfly TB. I suppose I should really decide if I'm gonna do the turbo conversion (nowhere near stock) before making my new plenum though huh? Makes a big difference where the plumbing goes.
#32
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Personally I prefer to fix things that don't work on my car, particularly if they perform a very handy function. I stop at several intersections on the way to work before my engine reaches operating temp, and having no fast idle would be a major pain in the ***. That's why mine stays.
Personally I prefer to fix things that don't work on my car, particularly if they perform a very handy function. I stop at several intersections on the way to work before my engine reaches operating temp, and having no fast idle would be a major pain in the ***. That's why mine stays.
Remember this is STONE COLD (< 50 degF coolant temps).
The best reason for removing the cold start assist is because as the system fails, it will hold the idle high, even when hot. And I can't begin tell you how much high idling bugs me. It's my opinion that the people who have modded TBs and cold-start problems have other issues, like vacuum leaks - with even a single nipple disconnected and vac leaking, my car stops running when cold. When done right, it's perfect.
Just my $0.02
Brandon
#33
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Something you guys are overlooking here (took me a second to actually realize it) is that I have a HUGE street ported motor and my idle is set very low in relation to where everyone else has theirs when runing this much port. If I were to raise the idle to 1000rpm I wouldn't have the cold air - cold start problems I do. High idles also annoy the hell out of me so I keep it just high enough so it doesn't lope. This translates to a car that doesn't run below 1k stone cold when the air temp is below 45 or so.
I went through everything on my motor when I did the rebuild making sure it all worked to specs. (eliminated a lot of worthless crap too) I have no complaints about how my car runs. It doens't pose any problems during the season I drive it anyways.
Winter cars here in MN end up on nature's diet (lots of rust) and I won't let that happen to my 7.
I went through everything on my motor when I did the rebuild making sure it all worked to specs. (eliminated a lot of worthless crap too) I have no complaints about how my car runs. It doens't pose any problems during the season I drive it anyways.
Winter cars here in MN end up on nature's diet (lots of rust) and I won't let that happen to my 7.
#34
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just to throw in my tb mod expierience regarding cold starts-we just had a cold spell a few weeks back where temps where in the upper teens-my car started and idled just fine[exept for a loping idle for about a minute,wich i belive is a tps problem].i have never had any problems,but i also let it sit till the temps start comming up on the temp gauge[120*]before driving.
d
d
#35
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally posted by No7Yet
That's interesting. Like I've said before, my car, completely TB-modded, will start and idle stone cold at 600ish RPM. It has no tendency to stall. I don't drive my car cold, but I have, and can say that except for needing a slight bit more throttle when doing a standing start, the car runs fine.
That's interesting. Like I've said before, my car, completely TB-modded, will start and idle stone cold at 600ish RPM. It has no tendency to stall. I don't drive my car cold, but I have, and can say that except for needing a slight bit more throttle when doing a standing start, the car runs fine.
It's my opinion that the people who have modded TBs and cold-start problems have other issues, like vacuum leaks...
#36
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Re: NO!
Originally posted by Rpeck
P.S. taking the secondary plates out kills your torque curve .. though you do gain HP … I have dyno evidence on this.
P.S. taking the secondary plates out kills your torque curve .. though you do gain HP … I have dyno evidence on this.
Thanks.
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