Taking Engine Apart
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Northern California
Taking Engine Apart
i did a search couldn't really find any good info, ok i'm about to take my engine apart, i know i need some new things but i don't know what? O-Ring seal i know is one of them what else?
engine is good, just want to open her up to port.
-mike
engine is good, just want to open her up to port.
-mike
Open up! Search Warrant!
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,838
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From: Kicking down doors in a neighborhood near you
You will need all the engine seals and gaskets. These come in a kit you can get from Atkins Rotary or Mazdatrix.com. Atkins rotary is cheaper. Its a little over $140 and $7.50 S/H. I just happen to have one I don't need anymore for $120 (includes shipping.) I got it from atkins rotary and I didn't use it. PM me if you are interested. Its got all the water seals, and engine gaskets. You will need this! Its for a 86-88N/A engine, so if this is what you are rebuilding, PM me.
Depending on the condition of the motor, you may need new housings and/or rotor seals. There is a seperate kit for that, which I do not have. But you will not know that you would need those parts until you open up the motor.
Depending on the condition of the motor, you may need new housings and/or rotor seals. There is a seperate kit for that, which I do not have. But you will not know that you would need those parts until you open up the motor.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,271
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From: UK
Its very easy, Just keep the side seals on the rotors (tape) and change the Apex seals, side seals rarely go they tend to go sticky in there slots.
The rotor oil Control rings should be the same colour all the way round not worn in one patch and they all should look the same.
Dont replace the Rotor Bearings unless it is a must (they take a long time to bed in)
You also want to look at spacering the Oil relef valve in the ft of the E-shaft.
Other than that you need to do a bit of Measuring.
O yeh there is a bit of a E-shaft problem when its time to fit the center plate so having a dry run is a good thing (no Apex's), its a two man job put the shaft in the center housing before lowering into the rotor/housing assembley (watch the bearing).
And last but not least if you have a cammra take lots of pics, Remember where u have taken things off from and dont loose anything.
Chris
The rotor oil Control rings should be the same colour all the way round not worn in one patch and they all should look the same.
Dont replace the Rotor Bearings unless it is a must (they take a long time to bed in)
You also want to look at spacering the Oil relef valve in the ft of the E-shaft.
Other than that you need to do a bit of Measuring.
O yeh there is a bit of a E-shaft problem when its time to fit the center plate so having a dry run is a good thing (no Apex's), its a two man job put the shaft in the center housing before lowering into the rotor/housing assembley (watch the bearing).
And last but not least if you have a cammra take lots of pics, Remember where u have taken things off from and dont loose anything.
Chris
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 0
From: UK
Before it goes back in the car you should be able to turn it over by hand (with no plugs in).
Make sure you put some oil on the Bearings,Tips etc when building up for your first start up (may be worthwhile disconecting the ht leads and cranking it on the key for a few a minute before start up to get some oil around)
Chris
Make sure you put some oil on the Bearings,Tips etc when building up for your first start up (may be worthwhile disconecting the ht leads and cranking it on the key for a few a minute before start up to get some oil around)
Chris
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