hondahater

iTrader: (2)

the type s exploded???? are you serious? how long did you have it before it exploded? How the **** did it explode? man that sux! That thing was on my car when I got it but the owner told me he didn't have it for long. Man i'm sorry to hear about that. Anyways yeah i used RA seals if I could go back I would use oem and will if i open it back up. I did replace oil control rings however the inserts where fine so I didn't have to replace them. I do have a street port using the racing beat intake ports and also their race port for the exhaust. I just have everything vented to the atmosphere right now however do you really thing I could get this much blow by from not the proper crank case ventilation? kinda seems a bit exsessive to me. As far as the compression test goes kevin landers says to do it from the leading holes so thats where I did it from??? I didn't use anyone to jump me so I may do that just to see if it boosts me up a tad. Also thats what I did to see the max compression except on mine if I just put the comp testers on and crank it automatically builds up until I press a little button to let the air release. Sorry if this post sounds dumb I just woke up

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Ok guys I'm really at a loss. Do any of you guys think this kind of blow by can come from anything other than internal issues. Reason I'm asking is because I have to make a descision soon about wether or not to rebuild. I've got some brand new 3mm apex seals that I can buy for around 275 and then the side seals, oem oil seals, and apex seal springs would cost another 200 bux so already I'm at almost 500 bux in a new rebuild however I'm guessing I can sell my nearly new oem apex seal springs and ra seals for about 200 bux and make up some of that cash. I don't know guys i just want to know rebuilding the engine is the only thing left to do. I guess I could sell my nearly new ra viton oil seals as well. Anyways if yall can help a brother out that would be great! Thanks.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.... i know the side seals were in spec so long as they went back in the locations they were in when we first put it together, the oil control rings were good too. Why it's filling up with gas so quickly is rather annoying unless your injectors are simply dumping all of the fuel into the engine when you turn the car off...

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

its gotta be the sideseals dude.

i'd open the motor up and shave some NEW sideseals down into spec and reassemble... with like .001 clearance on every single one.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yeah **** it, your right it's gotta be the side seals. Well while I'm at it I'm dumping some 3mm oem seals in there as well as relapping the sidehousings and powerdercoating the lim, uim, intercooler piping, front cover (is the front cover something good to powerder coat or is that bad?), and waterpump housing. I also need to get a new front side housing and port match with the one I have. Hey sonic I know the side seals went back in the same way we spec'd em so thats not a problem but who knows the RA seals could have fucked up or something, dont' know till I open it up. hey do you know if there is a setting in the mt that will make the injectors dump? Also I don't think it's that cause if it was dumping fuel I'd get a **** ton of smoke when starting up and I get none. Also is there any way it could be oil seals? If so I want to replace them. Basically I want to replace anything it could be internally with oem parts.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

if one of the injectors is grounding out because of wiring touching something, it will shoot fuel.

ilike2eatricers

yea this will only happen if there's a break in one of the wires and it's grounded. even then with the ignition on you should be able to hear fuel rushing out of the injector. if you take off the UIM and do this and the one of the wires is grounded you'll see an intake runner fill up with a puddle of fuel.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Ok I'll try this out then, thanks guys. I do hear a noise up there right when I turn the key on but then it goes away. I always thought it was the microtech turning on the fuel pump to get pressure???

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you can also install a fuel pump cut off switch, use it to kill the engine when you park it. try that for a week and see if the issue goes away, if it does then there is a problem with either the microtech setup or an injector that isn't shutting off as it should.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

hum...............very good idea karack, props man! thanks I'm going to set that up tonight!!!! I'll let yall know how it goes.

edit: the only other thing it could be if it's not that and it's not side seals is that when we where doing 4th gear rolls we where feeling break up in the higher rpm range and he said it was fuel not getting burned. He said to try differant cables to see if it was that cause I had the eccel racing wires so I went to msd and it's still here so maybe something is happening to my fire up top and causing the fuel not to burn like he was saying thus creaking blow by?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

something else I just thought of is that I used to be able to go further with my 550 primaries before I would get this tons of blow by however now with the 850's I'm getting more blow by. I guess this would just have to do with them being bigger injectors but this may be where the blow by is comming from, the primary injectors.


well I just checked the injectors for voltage durring the test mode on the microtech and I found that all of them get about 1.15 volts. Is this correct?

ErixHvn

Just wondering though if your injectors were atomizing the fuel when it cycled or was it just pouring out of the jet in a stream when they tested. Be kinda hard to ignite fuel in lquid form than if vaporized don't you think? Just curious if that's why they lowered pressure during testing. Would still burn I would assume but maybe not enough which might explain the fuel in oil. Just my .02.
Really curious as to why you'd have this condition.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I know it was just pouring out of the testers so it was probably just on at like 100% duty cycle or whatever the max is without messing up the injectors. It's a little back woods machine shop that does this so I know he's not to hip on whats going on with them but as far as flow is conserned they where spot on with eachother.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

i'm also getting some puerto ricans that race rx7's for a living telling me that it could be the fuel pressure regulator being that the one I got was an ebay special. I dont' mind buying an areomotive a1000 but I just want to make sure that this could indeed cause a problem like this. Does everyone with aftermarket fuel pressure regulators when the car is turned to acc position the fuel pressure will go up to normal and then bleed down to about 20 or so psi? Anyways if it could be a possibility that it is my fpr I will change it but if it has nothing to do with it then I won't. thanks guys for the help so far! Please stick in there

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lol, new problem, jeez! I just called summit racing and told them I wanted to order the a1000 bypass regulator but told them I have rubber fuel injection hose and not AN fittings and that I would need some fittings for that regulator from them as well and he said simply they aren't available because barbed fittings are for low pressure stuff and the fpr was made for high pressure. I told him I had an ebay special regulator that had the an fittings on it and there was no leaking and that I was running 47psi of pressure with no problems however he said there is no way to get barbed fittings for it soooooooooooo I'm at a loss for how I can get away with doing AN fitting fuel lines yet still get a better fuel pressure regulator than what I've got.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

barbed fittings work fine for high pressure fuel systems they just need to be snugly tightened down.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well he said they didn't have that cause they wheren't made. Looks like I'll be trying to find some sort of adapters then for that fpr. they have a 3/8ths barbed fitting that will work I could probably squeeze our 5/16 hose on that.

Carzy Driver

did you get a chance to tear down that motor?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

nope i'm trying to do everything first before I tear it down. If all else fails I'll tear it down. Jeez i really don't want to though