SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

alright guys im looking at getting a t3-t4 turbo i want to push 300 and i want to know who has a set or who likes them any info good and bad thanks

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Look harder.
T3 is a different flange than T4.
You wanna push 300 get a BNR stage 3,use the Stock exhaust manifold..plug and play.

SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

i thought t3-t4 was better due to the quicker boost time less lag and expelles more out the *** end? looking at greddy or garrett.....looking at the hybrids

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

http://www.ehow.com/how_7763970_tell...t4-flange.html

SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

holly **** that is a great deal the price for its performance and bolts right on and does it perform well with the manafold? ill happily add the upgraded actuater too

959595rotor

Hi... we are using Turbonetics t3/4 ceramic ball bearing on my custom made Exaust manifold and it Rocks. (no lag) easily makes 300HP about $1200 usd well worth the money......................

SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

what would be some other mods i should add with this turbo set up?

Leetfade

iTrader: (1)

Have it backwards. A T2 will spool faster (typically) than a T3 and a T4 (where twin-scroll starts to make a big difference). The larger frames will allow for more flow and more top-end, however.

300hp is very easily obtained so I would stick with the bolt n go scenario provided to ease the amount of mods actually needed. I would probably look at more fuel and a tune and have fun. :-)

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Can ceramic ball bearing turbos be rebuilt for $50 like journal bearing turbos?

BNR stage 2 or stage 3 will do what you want and it bolts in. Or you can buy the parts and make your own hybrid. All you really need is a bearing kit, a cold side turbine wheel like a 7 blade 60-1, and a cold side housing to fit the wheel.

SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

what size injectors do you think would run well with it? and im looking into r-tek for the ecu for tunning

13bpower

Are you looking for 300hp or 300whp? You can get 300hp out of the STOCK turbo with little money and effort. Once you make the jump to a hybrid you can make 340-400whp with a little more effort and a little more money.

SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

I want to make 300 whp maybe little more

Furb

iTrader: (2)

BNR is best bang for the buck

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i wouldn't spend the money on a BNR, sooner or later it won't cut it for you or look for one second hand. they are a bit pricey for a lightly modded stock frame turbo.

look at it this way, for a few hundred more you can get a ball bearing GT35R which is light worlds away in comparison. yes you will need more components but you're paying $750-950 for $250 in parts and a few hours of labor.

i simply never see many people stick with hybrids for very long.

Furb

iTrader: (2)

If you get a GT35R, you also need a manifold, external wastegate, oil feed and return lines, modified downpipe..

It will cost you way more then a few hundred, atleast a grand..

If you only want 300rwhp, bnr is the best way to go.. no extra costs, just plug and play (besides fuel and tuning ofcourse)

I am running a stage 4 for a couple of years, and i have no desire in upgrading at all... 400hp does the trick for me

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Bnr: plug in and go.
T04s cost me 900,downpipe200,manifold350,wastegate350,Boost contoller200,..fabbing/welding to the exhaust to get the **** to fit300 .

..

SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

i believe im going to go with the BNR for simplicity reasons but i do know there are other mods to suport the turbo as in injectors of course tune maybe a aftermarket fuel pump im looking at the stage 3 but really considering the stage 4 now what would be the best recommended upgrades tor both? so i can keep the psi where it should be...

by the way thanks guys for your knowledge and help.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

hybrid turbos aren't plug and play, they require a way to tune the fuel and igniton as well as fuel system upgrades.

yes the manifold, wastegate and downpipe can add a chunk to the cost but they also add real performance that the hybrids have a tough time keeping up with.

Furb

iTrader: (2)

Even with stock turbo you need fuel and tuning, so in this case we skipped that discussion..
It all depends on your goals.. if you want more then 400, you should skip the hybrid story.

The OP wants around 300, in that case hybrid is the way to go, unless he wants to spend the extra limb

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

That bnr turbo is capable of getting you into the 12's or so depending on what stage you get, i think that's plenty of power for a street car.

http://www.bnrsupercars.com

look under products >mazda , you'll see the rx7 section and a nice page of all the turbo upgrades they offer with nice descriptions

SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

yeah guys im looking for 300 rwhp enough to enjoy the ride and break the tires loose when i want to take it to a drift track and we all know that **** tends to break on drift tracks, so im not looking to break the bank yet unless i decide to make it a show car but i do want that torque power quicker spool time, so im still considering BNR but know i need your guys help with supporting mods like ecu upgrade, injectore, fuel pump, lines, ect... any thoughts

Leetfade

iTrader: (1)

I completely see where RE is coming from being a shop owner as well. Power is addicting and the proper build method is do it right the first time. Too many people start modding, get bored and want more and more.. and they spend a LOT more that way. However, 300 to the wheels is a decent amount and the higher you go, the lower the reliability (or much higher cost).

The reality is you can always sell the BNR (someone always looking to buy them) later if you're looking for something "simple". I put that in quotes because, even with the BNRs, you want to upgrade your fuel system and get a proper tune (don't see any debate on that luckily). You should also upgrade your downpipe if you're running stock anyways.

Injectors I'm not sure I would go minimal on. You can go too big, though if you aren't using a stand-alone and a good tuner. :-)

You want to stay under 80% injector duty cycle for maximum efficiency and longevity of your injectors. I think the consensus for ~ 400whp is 800 primary / 1600 secondary but I could be incorrect (first dive into the rotary world). RE can probably answer that better.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm

This is a really good basic guide as to what mods/supporting mods are needed to reach certain power levels. Enjoy

If you don't feel like going to the link, I think you'll want about up to this stage.

Stage I consists of relatively easy bolt-on mods that will give you the most performance for the least amount of money. Emissions will be kept intact, so this will be the perfect beginning for most street cars. With Stage I mods, the foundation will be laid for the later stages. Concentration will be on making the engine operate more efficiently by opening intake and exhaust sections without affecting emissions.
Stage I:
Estimated Boost: 8psi (5.5psi stock) Zenki
10psi (7.5psi stock) Kouki
Estimated Power: 200hp (182hp stock) Zenki
220hp (200hp stock) Kouki
¼-mile Potential: mid to high 14's (low 15's stock)
Emissions: Not affected - will pass smog
Rewire fuel pump power:
Power going to the fuel pump is suspect on these cars due to age and corrosion of the wires and connectors. A rewire guarantees full voltage to the fuel pump. [MORE]
An optional (more expensive) solution is to go with a fuel pump voltage regulator. Kenne Bell offers their Boost-A-Pump that will ensure proper voltage levels. Others are made by MSD and B&M. If you choose this route, a re-wire is not necessary.
F.C.D.:
The fuel-cut defenser prevents overboost fuel-cut when running higher boost levels. The stock ECU is programmed to trigger fuel-cut when running approximately 1psi over the stock boost levels.
Air Filter:
K&N offers a drop in filter replacement of your OEM stock air filter that will flow more air. K&N part number 33-2017.
Cat-Back Exhaust:
A cat-back exhaust system will free up your exhaust system by replacing the restrictive Y-pipe and mufflers. Emissions is still intact. Although technically not a "cheap" purchase, the (freeing of the) exhaust system is the key to producing power on these vehicles. [MORE]
Porting Stock Turbo Wastegate:
The stock wastegate will be overwhelmed when exhaust is freed. This can cause uncontrolled boost creep that can damage your engine. Although labor intensive, it is a very cheap mod is you have the proper tools. [MORE]
Shimming Eccentric Shaft Thermowax Pellet:
Not so much as a performance mods, but more for a safety precaution against a failing front eccentric shaft thermowax pellet. Failure of this part will cause decreased oil pressure inside the engine. [MORE]


Stage II goes into an extension of Stage I. Mods are to stress reliability and efficiency of the engine without impacting emissions; the car should still be able to pass an emissions sniffer test without any problems. Very strict visual tests would arouse suspicions.
Stage II:
Estimated Boost: 10psi Zenki
11psi Kouki
Estimated Power: 220hp Zenki
230hp Kouki
¼-mile Potential: low 14's
Emissions: Will pass smog sniffer tests, but questionable on a visual
Fuel Pump Upgrade:
An upgrade fuel pump guarantees fuel supply for increased power. It also prevents lean conditions due to the stock fuel pump running out of capacity when getting close to the 250hp level. [MORE]
Downpipe:
Replacing the stock pre-catalytic converter with a downpipe will increase engine breathing and release more power. The pre-cat is primarily for cold-start emissions, but this should not affect a sniffer test when the engine is fully warmed up properly. [MORE]
Ignition CDI Box:
An ignition CDI box will produce a more consistent ignition system. The stock ignition system has been known to be "weak". A Crane Cams HI-6 or MSD 6A will give you a little more power (up to 5hp) across the entire RPM band, crisper throttle response, and possibly better gas mileage! [MORE]
Electric Fan:
The stock viscous fan can fail without warning. Installation of an electric fan will free up some of the parasitic power loss from the stock viscous fan. An electric fan is also a much more efficient method of cooling, since the fan is only active when needed.
Cone Air Filter:
The stock air filter box is very restrictive. By replacing the air filter box and stock panel air filter with a cone filter, we free up the intake even more. 1986-1988 Zenki models needs to run an airflow meter adapter plate to mount a cone filter. 1989-1991 Kouki models can just clamp an air filter directly to the airflow meter. [MORE]
Fuel Computer:
The addition of the fuel computer adds to fine-tuning the fuel delivery. This might or might not add to peak horsepower, but substantial gains are made by leaning out the midrange, as the stock ECU runs rich in these areas. One of the most popular types of fuel computers if the A'PEXi S-AFC. [MORE]


Stage III is the point of no return for emissions. With these mods, the car not pass an emissions test. A lot of the mods are to remove emissions components that are not necessary, the key component being the removal of the main catalytic converter. Power potential takes a large jump due to the removal of the main cat.
Stage III:
Estimated Boost: 12psi
Estimated Power: 250hp
¼-mile Potential: high 13's
Emissions: Will not pass emissions
Pre-silencer:
Replacing the main catalytic converter with an in-line muffler ensures a very free flowing exhaust system. You can even go straight pipe for this section, but a pre-silencer will give you a quieter exhaust note. With the removal of the main cat, emissions gets thrown out the door. [MORE]
TID Replacement:
By replacing the stock turbo inlet duct with a straighter pipe section, the intake gains even more efficiency. [MORE]
Air Pump Removal:
Main cats have been removed, so there's no need for the air pump. We recommend running a double-sheave alternator pulley and double water pump / alternator belts to prevent water pump pulley slippage after removing the air pump. [MORE]
ACV/EGR Valve Removal:
Likewise with the air pump, the ACV and EGR valves have no use once the main cat is removed. After removal, replace with a block-off plate.
Upgrade Fuel Injectors:
At this level of power, the stock fuel injectors (4 × 550) are getting close to their maximum safe output at 85%. Larger fuel injectors (coupled with the control of a fuel computer in Stage II) would allow for safer pulsewidths under 85%. [MORE]
Upgrade Radiator:
The (turbo) rotary engine generates a lot of heat. The increase in power requires the needs for more cooling capacity. An upgrade radiator ensures increased cooling over the stock unit. [MORE]


Stage III+ is an extension of Stage III. The foundation for more power through higher boost has already been laid. With the higher boost levels, more power can be produced. The stock turbocharger cannot handle more than 14psi of boost consistently; higher boost pressure tend to cause it's oil seals to fail and produce excessive oil leaking. This causes huge clouds of oil smoke from the exhaust.
Stage III+:
Estimated Boost: 14psi
Estimated Power: 280hp
¼-mile Potential: low 13's
Emissions: Don't even bother
Electronic Boost Controller:
An electronic boost controller will give you a more boost and a more aggressive boost curve. While running such modified boost levels, you'll need to tune for the fuel delivery with the fuel computer mentioned in Stage II.
Gauges:
Although not a performance enhancement, aftermarket gauges are used to monitor vital areas of your engine. They can immediately tell you when you're in danger and pinpoint a potential component failure. This is more of a safety mod at this point, as we are starting to make almost 100hp more than stock! [MORE]
Blow-off Valve:
With the increased boost, the potential for compressor surge is increased. By going with an aftermarket blow-off valve, we increase the capacity to vent the increased boost over the stock compressor bypass valve. Compressor surge will eventually kill turbo bearings and cause the turbo to wobble itself to death. [MORE]
Upgrade Oil Pressure Regulator:
With the increase of power, higher oil pressure is recommended to keep bearings and internal components libricated properly. Racing Beat offers an 80psi-85psi upgrade OPR that is easily installed once the oil pan is removed. [MORE]


Stage IV will start to go beyond the capacities of the stock components. This is mainly for the stock turbocharger and intercooler. The upgrade fuel pump and larger fuel injector should be able to support power levels to the largest compressor upgrade available for the stock Hitachi HT-18; the 60-1 compressor upgrade is the largest compressor upgrade we can go with that will fit with relative ease. Fine-tuning of fuel delivery is possible with the fuel computer recommended in Stage II.
Stage IV:
Estimated Boost: 14psi
Estimated Power: Up to 350hp
¼-mile Potential: low to mid 12's
Emissions: Don't even bother
Compressor Turbo Upgrade:
The stock turbo is restricting power at this point. By enlarging the compressor section, we can increase serious power potential! By keeping the stock turbine, CHRA, and turbine housing (and turbine wheel), we are able to keep the stock turbo exhaust manifold and forego the cost of an expensive (full) turbo upgrade. ---

*** hes talking about the bnr turbo****

SO-CALxRXx951

iTrader: (1)

thats what im talking about.... thank you