kjdakilla

1st off i need to give a big thank u to all the guys on this forum who contribute good info on a regular. ive been a member of this club for about 3 years and i have never had a problem finding an answer to any of my questions and problems. Until now! Now that i got the *** kissing outa the way.....

I have 87 s4 t2 that i purchased a few years ago in like 2006. I bought it with no engine just a transmission. Body was extra clean and all the internals were in tact. Then i purchased a s5 89 engine and had it ported by a legend in my town. (the guy is really great) He put it all back together with atkins 2mm seals and all the s4 external stuff to make the ecu happy. But we kept the s5 manifold on and the newer intercooler and put the engine in the car. Here comes the problem. He was doing all the work out of another guys shop and i got a call from my mechaninc saying that i need to come get the car cuz the shop is about to get closed down and the people who own the building are going to tow all the cars that are here. So i rushed to get the car, took it home and it sat for a few weeks. Even tho he had put the engine in, it still had not experienced its first crank yet. Then i came back to the 7club and started researching.

I found out what i needed to do to get it to crank and finally after long hours of flooding it out and a couple of new batterys i got it to crank. But it didnt stay on long. Maybe about 6 sec and it died! So i tried to kick start it and i noticed that when the car is rolling (had my brothers helping me push) it wouldnt go in gear! So now im really trippin! I take the trani down and noticed the clutch was worn down and then I did something very stupid. I put in a 4 puck unsprung clutch and an act 8lb flywheel(+counterweight) with the stock pp, stock throw out bearing, and stock pilot bearing. (save the bashing, i know it was dumb)

So i put it all back together and still have the same problem. So i took it back down made sure it was aligned right and everything was tight, put it back together and had the same problem! I could get it to go into every gear while the engine is not turning. But if u crank it up or roll the car it wont go in gear, it feels like u are hitting a wall in there or something. It just thuds against something. So i put in gear and then tried rolling it with the clutch pressed it but when i let go of the clutch instead of it kick starting it would just locks everything up, including the back wheels up. At this point i dont know what to do so i hit the forums and started researching and noticed that a few people who had this problem rebuilt the trani or opened the trani and had some rods that fell outa place in the tran. So based on what i had learned i decided to just buy a new trans. So i did. And i put in the new trani (which was actually used from a guy in atlanta) and the same thing happened again. Stiil wont go in gear unless the engine is not moving at all. Even with the clutch all the way down.

At this point i go thru a serious episode of depresson and start working on my na fc and decide to boost my rx8. The t2 is just sitting right now. I would periodically go out and turn the rotors to make sure they dont seize up but for the most part the car has become a good place to lock my toolboxes up at night. Finally i decide to sell it to a really good friend of mine and i let him get for an extremely low price, $1000. this was in late november of 08. Some of you may have read a few of his post in reference to this car. We both work at the same dealership but hes a tech and im a salesman. He takes the car, cleans it up real good put in s5 tail lights and did a number of things that i was planning to do before i got rid of it. I told him about the trani/clutch setup i had and the problems i had with it cranking and he thought the trani/clutch was just rusted and seized from sitting up. He focused on getting it to crank again and getting it to idle correctly. It has no emissions and a racing beat exhaust that i got for it a little while after i got it ported. So he was focused on getting it to run right. He got it to crank correctly and idle correctly and at this pont im losing my mind im so jealous! I talk him into selling it back to me and here i am. the first thing i do is bring it home and pull the transmission down, Ive ordered a full act clutch kit that inlcudes everything. It will be here on feb 6th.

My big problem is im so worried that i will put the new clutch kit on and i will be faced with the same problem again. I havent really been able to find much on these symptoms. If im overlooking it then i apologize for wasting ur guys time and could u point me in the right direction. Has anyone had this happen? I stll have both tranis. What are the chances that they are both bad? Does anyone think i will be fine with the new clutch kit and im just being over concerned? The rear diff is good cuz if it was that then the car would not move at all right? The rear diff is not partial to whether the engine is on or not. Does anyone have any recommendations as to what i should do? i really want this to be the last time i pull this trani down. That son of a gun is heavy. Alot heavier than the NA trani.

Also sorry if i was long winded on this thread but i wanted give everyone as many detalis as possible so they could maybe help me figure this thing out.
-Thanks

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

the clutch disk might be put on backwards,

i had teh same **** happen to me.

kjdakilla

dang homie. i didnt think about that. that could very well be the problem. the way i have been installing it is with the flat side of the hub splines against the flywheel. Shouldnt that be right? The potruding side of the hub splines against the flywheel makes the clutch stick out, would the PP bolt on like that?

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Your problem sounds similar to mine a few weeks ago when my clutch master went out...

Goes into gear no problem turned off, when turned on, it feels like the pedal has pressure, but the tranny just wouldnt let me put it in gear

Did you change the clutch master and slave when you did the swap?

kjdakilla

yep. first i purchased a master cylinder from atkins rotary. I still had the same problem. Then when i sold the car to my buddy he replaced the atkins master cylinder with a new one from bendix. And he purchased a new clutch release cylinder. We bled the crap out of it up at mazda when it was slow one day with the tool that pulls the air out. and then we did it manually to be sure it was good and free of any air. the bendix master cylinder is whats on there now. could it possibly be the pilot bearing?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

It does sound like a pilot bearing...

If you used the bolts to pull the trans onto the engine then thats your problem.

kjdakilla

I have done that before but my homeboy was the last guy to put the trani in so im not sure if he used the "bolt pull method" or not. My clutch kit came in today so im planning on replacing the rsg seal and the rear main seal while i have the trani down they shuld both still be good but they are so cheap its a no brainer.

I will make sure i cover all the bases on installing the clutch this time with the all new parts and hopefully it will work this time and i can drive the car for the first time. im thinking of take pics of the entire process for my own good. I know there is already a DIY on this but if it still doesnt work i can post the pics and maybe u guys can pick out where i went wrong. i should have it finished by later today or early tomorrow.

kjdakilla

So i started on the replacing the seals today and when i took off the flywheel i noticed the old pilot bearing and thought that i should go ahead and pull it out. That was at about 1:30. Its 8:30 and i just got it out! I have NEVER had one be that much of a bitch to get out. I used my pilot bearing puller and my slide hammer and it still took 4 eva. i finally got it out and i feel like it really coulda been my problem the entire time. Im about to post some pics of what i mean.

kjdakilla

The first pic is not that great of a pic but its the pic i took before i started to remove the pilot bearing

The 2nd pic is the pic after i got the pilot bearing out. The piece on the left is the actual pilot bearing but WTF is that crap on the right? It was kinda jammed in front of the pilot bearing and it looked to be pretty damaged. I dont have a clue what it is.

The 3rd pic is just another shot of the 2 pieces that came out. Where these pieces attached at one point? i cant tell but it sure doesnt look like it. Has anyone else had anything like this?

The last pic is just a shot of the act flywheel and counterweight installed. This really shoulda been the first picture... My bad.

I will finish putting the seals in and putting the new clutch kit in tomorrow. I really hope this is what was stopping me from getting the car in gear while the engine is running. Anyone have any idea if this is the root of my problem?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

The piece in front of the pilot bearing is the pilot bearing seal. Some people run them and some people don't.

A busted pilot bearing will let you shift when the car is off, but not shift when the car is on.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, your pilot bearing is definately shot. Replace that thing and you should be good to go.

kjdakilla

Thats exactly what i think it was! I put in the new clutch kit today and everything is working fine. Shift smooths and everything, with the engine on and off! After fixing that problem i ran into another one tho... My oil pressure went sky high once the engine warmed up. im talking it was almost pegged out! I dont know if maybe it was cuz the car was on jack stands and not leveled or what. I will be searching the forums pretty much all night to try to figure this one out too. Thanks for all the help guys. I did take pics thru the entire clutch install but i dont see a need to post em since i know everything is working unless u guys just wanna see em. Other than that it would be kinda of a waste of time.

kjdakilla

so my research last night on oil pressure led me to 2 things.

1. it could be that my gauge is wacked out cuz of old/bad wiring

2. could be my oil pressure sensor wiring is not right

So i was looking for the wires that everyone talks about thats right below the oil filter and oil pressure sensor. I found the red/yellow wire. it looks to be connected properly. It is pictured first. Is this one for oil/water?

The second pic is a black/red wire that i have no clue as to where it belongs.(big green arrows) Its obviously broken. What is it and where does it go? Could this be the wire that is supposed to be grounded on one of the slave cylinder bolts?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

See that Thing that looks like a Bell,beside that yellow/red wire in the picture?..that is your Oil sender..the clip is not on it(not hooked up,so you got no wire to the Sender,therefore your oil gauge is not reading).

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

edit sorry didnt see you already fixed the clutch