urawanabe

i have an exaust on my 86 base and i got a 15.5 out of but thats not fast enough but sence i love my car and dont want to sell it and get a t2 what would all be involved in doing the swap and how much $$$$$$$$$ am i looking at

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

dollar wise a TII swap can run on the cheap side......$2000 (TII motor/trans about 1000, plus possible rebuild plus incidentals) but more likely you will spend 3000 and up.

IMHO if you want a TII, dont buy and N/A and make it into one....JUST BUY ONE.

its like saying
"Id like steak for dinner tonite honey...."
"Sure dear, Ill get some chicken and we'll put A-1 on it"

cool_as_crap

a lot. it would be cheaper to buy a t2. otherwise, you would have to swap not only motor, but tranny, driveshaft, and complete rear-end

iceblue

1. Buy a TII its cheaper and easier
2. search
3. 3k or more generaly + tools if you dont have them.

Radial GT

iTrader: (16)

The only problem with findin T2's is they are either beat to a pulp, with clunky rear ends and just down right worn out. Or they are so frick'n nice the owner wants 4-5 thousand for them. If you can find a T2 with body damage or something, do that and swap to a nice body NA. NA bodies are easier to come by, true. Turbo swap is pricey and a lot of work, true.

I am still holding off to find a nice buy on a turbo.... I miss my rotary.

matts86fc3s

**** you can buy a complete jspec T2 motor with tranny,computer, and wiring harness for $1,200 on ebay or at jdmengines.com... and they all have between 30,000 and 50,000 miles on them, and since im a mechanic i have all the tools and knowledge of doing a motor swap... of course ill have to buy miscellaneous stuff to complete it, so it will probly end up being like $2,000. but thats pretty cheap

NOPR

i think its cheaper to do an S5 T2 swap than to buy a whole S5 T2 swap, its like they're made out of diamonds.

First gen man

iTrader: (24)

Turbo swaps are fine usually run like 2500-3000 not too bad, mostly nickle and dime you to death.

but i paid 650 for my engine and tranny then like i split shipping with a friend so it was 800 all together shipped.

then you need stuff like map sensor, afm, check valve for the brake booster, a custom driveshaft (paid 75 dollars to have a N/A flange welded to a turbo driveshaft) you know just odds and ends. Some work goes into it but its really not as hard/expensive as it seems.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

plus 1,200 for a rebuild on that J-Spec

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

cheaper to do a swap than buy a swap???...am I missing something here?

edit:
you swap in a TII engine/tranny/driveline into an N/A...........you still have an N/A car its just had its N/A heart torn out of it.......

-the vin will still be N/A
-it won't re-sell for the same money as a TII in WORSE shape than the swapped N/A car in question

BOTTOM LINE IS - If you want a TII......freakin buy one....its the best way
Don't use the excuse of I don't have the money - because the swap + the cost of your N/A car will be equal or greater than the midlevel cost of a TII

First gen man

iTrader: (24)

lol NOPR had a few typoes in there

First gen man

iTrader: (24)

We've done about 4 j-spec swaps now and ALL of them fired up the FIRST crank, after sitting in japan being shipped hear, then sitting around hear for a few months.

The worst problem we've had with them yet is one had a stuck apex seal, but it free'd itself up pretty alright.

But they usually have about 110 psi steady for compression on both rotors

I love them lol.

Even if you do get a shitty one there only around 900 bucks with the shipping included in that.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

you were lucky...true there are good J-specs out there but if you are wieghing the cost of a swap I would add that on the list FOR SURE because all but one of the 14 Jspec motors I have my hands on have had either gouged housings ( 6 motors) or worn/barely useable apex seals (7 motors)

And the last thing this guy needs is to get it underway thinking he can afford it and then him not going through with it because he was one of the many to recieve a near dud of a Jspec

First gen man

iTrader: (24)

Some very good points. Really depends on your money. You can always inspect the **** out of it through the exhaust ports and maybe try and get a starter and tranny on it for a compression check. If you can find a whole turbo II car out there thats good shape and decently cheap buy it. Saves alot of problems that could happen.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Bullshit.

I have less in my 90 GXL TII swap than any S5 TII in nearly (but mostly not even close) condition that my car is in. And yes, that includes the price of the car.

Don't listen to 90% of the people on here. They tell you to sell the NA and buy a TII because it drives up the price for their shabby car.

iceblue

Bullshit!

We tell people this b/c we have done these swaps and torn down Jspec motors and meany otehr people on here. We did it out of concern and truthfull amont of money spent. They nicle and dim you to death! People that ask this and arnt dead set on perofmring a swap think this is a cheaper rought and its siply not! So the fact is unless you a prepaird to do work for yourself then buy a TII!

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I dunno about anyone else, but I have managed to get TII motors (usually J-specs) for around 600 dollars. These J-Specs have been incredibly reliable. In my honest opinion, 3k is a good price for a complete TII swap, with quality stuff, but it can be done for much cheaper.

Bukwild

A problem people seem to forget is that you need to add the cost of the NA + the cost of the t2 swap together to get a fair cost equasion. So 3k for the swap and 3k you paided for the NA = 6k. So you will have 6k into a car with a stock turbo setup? Thats not very smart. For 6k you could get a modded turbo 2 with around 350-400hp. There is one for sale right now on here with that exact setup.

Another problem with swaps people forget is what if you cant get it to run and or run right? When we did a swap on my vert I had wiring harness issues from hell because you a trying to use 20 year old electronics that have been melted and turn into peanut brittle from years of excessive heat. They work fine on the car they were orginally on and will continue to work fine until someone grabs them and tries to rip them off the car and install them back on another. This problem forced me to spend another 1300 bucks on a full standalone haltech e6x ems because mine never ran right and I was tired of it.

Just a few things to think about. But dollar for dollar I spent twice the cost to get the same result as a turbo 2 for my turbo vert. And the vert is the only 2nd gen worth doing a swap on because you cannot buy a turbo model here in the US.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

thanks.....

We aren't saying don't do a swap - its just a matter or weighing costs (total costs) to what you will get in the end........

yusoslo

Hey man I heard all of this same stuff when it came time to do my swap. Trust me if you are knowledgible and have the tools do it, but it takes time to research it all.
I bought my fc s4 n/a for 500 bucks with no motor
S5 T2 swap already comp tested with tranny and wiring harness $800
Haltech $600
sell ecu and harness -$190
T2 driveshaft, halfshafts, and S4 clutch lsd rearend....$200
I was making a track car so I was replacing Rad, solid mounts everywhere anyways so if I bought a T2 i would have had to take everything out anyways. so now I have a lighter car with no sunroof and I got a white one with a perfect frame.

Try and find a white t2 with perfect compression that was never modded (like my motor) and then install standalone on it for 1,900 total...not gonna happen.

there where other costs such as fuel pump, injector upgrade, exhaust, but it wouldnt be fair to add that in since it didnt relate to a basic swap/get the motor in a running

In other words, do it!

NOPR

fixed it, i bet it was REAL hard to figure out what i meant

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Why not just Boost your N/A block? P.S T2 swaps can be done on the cheap, My b-in-law bought a T2 frame for $180 with ECU, boost sensor, knock sensor and MAF, then bought a j-spec for $900 shipped..... Plus oil and antifreeze, and belts, his swap is going to total less then $1300 with harness.......... Can be done.

Rx7Joker5

Hey,
It would be cheaper to just turbo the n/a engine.thats I was thinking of doing. I was thinking of putting a t3 or t4. The only thing is you would have to run it at a low boost and you would also have to change the throttle body and intake manifold to tII.

iceblue

[QUOTE=yusoslo]Hey man I heard all of this same stuff when it came time to do my swap. Trust me if you are knowledgible and have the tools do it, but it takes time to research it all.
I bought my fc s4 n/a for 500 bucks with no motor
S5 T2 swap already comp tested with tranny and wiring harness $800
Haltech $600
sell ecu and harness -$190
T2 driveshaft, halfshafts, and S4 clutch lsd rearend....$200
I was making a track car so I was replacing Rad, solid mounts everywhere anyways so if I bought a T2 i would have had to take everything out anyways. so now I have a lighter car with no sunroof and I got a white one with a perfect frame.

- You forgot the TII hood you got a good buy on the NA non running to begin with. What about all the maintained stuff oils wires plugs stuff like that? Boost gauges and more stuff? This easily adds 500$ You already had the tools? If not add that cost your time performing it time is money all the time researching it.

there where other costs such as fuel pump, injector upgrade, exhaust, but it wouldn’t be fair to add that in since it didn’t relate to a basic swap/get the motor in a running

- How is this not relevant to the cost? It is required to make the car run so how in the hell do you come up with this crap statement?

In other words, do it!

- From what grounds is this? I believe that is his decision if he is willing to do what it takes.

Now what if it doesn’t run? What then? What about troubleshooting it this is not easy, fact is most of them don’t run first time and your using a unknown used motor so who knows if its even good! Swaps are notorious for grounding issues probably from the 16yr old harness so it requires possible more attention. Now the time getting it to run right and tuned swaps always give fits about this.

This is just what is involved. That is why we say you need to know and be prepared for this. Do the swap if you want the experience doing the swap if you want a project that will probably take a month or 3 to get running. If you are not up for what a swap really takes, it is far easier to buy a TII.

For some reason I would bet you really haven’t done this swap or never got one running yet.

Bukwild - you made some excellent points.

yusoslo

- You forgot the TII hood you got a good buy on the NA non running to begin with. What about all the maintained stuff oils wires plugs stuff like that? Boost gauges and more stuff? This easily adds 500$ You already had the tools? If not add that cost your time performing it time is money all the time researching it.

OK I FORGOT THE T2 HOOD, GOT THAT FROM MY ROOMATE FOR $75 BUCKS.
OILS PLUGS AND WIRES THAT WOULD BE DONE TO ANY CAR IF YOU WANTED TO GIVE IT A TUNE UP SO THAT IS NOT A COST OVER ANOTHER (SINCE IT WOULD BE DONE TO EITHER CAR BOUGHT, WHY INCLUDE IT??)


there where other costs such as fuel pump, injector upgrade, exhaust, but it wouldn’t be fair to add that in since it didn’t relate to a basic swap/get the motor in a running

- How is this not relevant to the cost? It is required to make the car run so how in the hell do you come up with this crap statement?

I HAVE AN UPGRADED SETUP SO THE 1600 INJECTORS AND THE WALBORO PUMP, AND A 3" FUJISTUBO EXHAUST ARENT FAIR TO ADD THE COST IN. AGAIN THAT WOULD BE INCLUDED IF THE T2 YOU WHERE BUYING WAS GOING TO HAVE THESE OPTIONS BUT THAT WOULD LINEARLY EFFECT THE COST OF THE OTHER CAR.


Now what if it doesn’t run? What then? What about troubleshooting it this is not easy, fact is most of them don’t run first time and your using a unknown used motor so who knows if its even good! Swaps are notorious for grounding issues probably from the 16yr old harness so it requires possible more attention. Now the time getting it to run right and tuned swaps always give fits about this.

WHY WOULD IT NOT RUN? IS IT MISSING A ROTOR OR THERE IS NO TRANSMISSION, MAYBE IT WAS BIT BY THE "I DONT KNOW HOW TO WORK ON CARS BUG?" I HAVE STANDALONE SO I HAVE A NEW HARNESS, IF I COULDNT GET A CAR TO RUN I WOULDNT DO THIS KIND OF WORK


For some reason I would bet you really haven’t done this swap or never got one running yet.

YES SIR, YOU GOT ME GOOD. I DONE NEVER DID NO KINDA SWAP LIKE DIS BEFOE UHHH HUUH, YES SIR.

WHY THE HELL WOULD I WASTE MY TIME TO WRITE ABOUT THIS AN INCOURAGE SOMEONE WITH MECHANICAL SKILLS TO APPLY IT TO A HOBBY TO SAVE MONEY?
YES I HAVE DONE MULTIPLE SWAPS AND THE CAR RUNS GREAT.

SOMETIMES I DONT EVEN KNOW WHY I BOTHER WITH THE FORUM.....YOU WANT TO BASH ME AGAIN SIR JUST VISIT ME SOME TIME AND I WILL SHOW YOU MY HOMEMADE PERIPHIAL PORTED, VARIABLE INTAKE LENGTH CARBURATED 48 WEBBER IDA 13B THAT IS SITTING IN MY GARAGE. IF I BUILT I MOTOR LIKE THAT I DOUBT A WIRING HARNESS GROUNDING ISSUE WILL HOLD ME BACK.

BTW LET ME KNOW HOW THAT CAR OF YOURS RUNS