hi all!!

well, to start off, my '88 na-to-t2 project is complete! she ran for the 1st time a few weeks ago!!
from then on, i've been fine tuning it. please allow me to describe a little about what i've done to my car before i ask the question:
1) s4 t2 engine
2) ALL emission, idling-related stuff removed.. egr, acv, bac, air pump, cc... etc etc.
3) removed ac and ps
4) k&n box filter w/ 2.5" stright pipe
5) removed twin scroll
6) adjust timing bang on at stock location (w/ timing gun)
7) adjust tps to exactly 1k
8) re-routed coolant line so it no longer runs through tb

that's it. it's basically a stock s4 t2 w/out the emission crap. now my problem is, i can turn the key and the car would start every single time, but it won't hold idle unless i give it some gas. the strange thing is, after the car warms up, it holds idle fine.

so what could be my problem? i did some search and the people w/ similar symptoms had problems w/ their thermowax. but my car doesn't even have coolant running through the tb. so i don't understand how that could be a problem....

any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

thanks lots guys,

howi

 

Okay, you disconnected the water from the thermowax but didnt remove the thermowax?


FYI, most cars that run no emissions/idle controls and no thermowax have cold idling issues.

 

I was going to say the same with the Thermowax. After re-routing the Water Line, did you remove the Thermowax?

Did you adjust the Idle? Any slack off the TII Throttle Cable ( b'n the exposed metal cable and the latch on the TB)? Did you adjust the Throttle stop Screw?

Is It a J-Spec Motor you have Howi?

 

no tony... i didn't touch the thermowax...

i don't have a bac, or acv, whatever controls the idle... i use my throttle cable to adjust idle...

there could be some slack...

i don't belive so...

you know what? i have no freakin clue. i think it's a USDM engine, but w/ mix IC, TB, UIM, LIM.. etc...

 

I wouldn't mind coming over to give It a looksy...

But one thing Is certain - you'll get screwy results If you bypass the Coolant Line and still keep your Thermowax on. Further, you should adjust your Idle *correctly*. If you are doing this via the Cable, It will no doubt re-adjust In time. Besides, thats what the Throttle stop screw Is for. There should be 1 to 3mm slack with the Throttle Cable.

 

Hmmm... Silverrotor was involved?

count me out!

 

DONT use the throttle cable to set idle without a bac

You need to set the butterflies. To do this there is a set screw with a 8mm nut.

To get idle with out any idle'n components there are 3 things u need to set

TPS
Butterflies
Idle mixture (resistor)

I can get a nearly perfect idle even with a street port on both primary/secondary ports with a stock ecu and no bac or thermo.

It's natural for it to take about 30 sec to idle properly. After about 2 min it should be normal.

750 all the way

The reason you have these problems is b/c you took out the components that fixes the problem (Thermo wax, aws, and bac). I got rid of all of them and just live with the first 30 sec that i have to hold the gas pedal down.

 

<- First time posting one of these stupid smilies.

Hmm, I'm noticing a paridigim here. This Is the 2nd one to date. Am I going to have to come to Arizona to unleash a can of whop-that-***? Better yet, why don't I ask whats up your **** Jarrett?

 

Just playin!

 

Man, I'll bus ya ***. I received the parcel all Is well...except It did smell like cheese. I sense a rat.

 

ic ic... so it is normal... that's freakin awesome! i honestly can not care less about how crappy it idles... i just wanted to make sure that i didn't screw something up during the t2 swap...
thanks lots Sesshoumaru

thanks silver! you're awesome man!
now that i know it's possibly the butterflies and thermowax messing up, i'll take a look at them asap. and if i can't figure this **** out, for sure i'll give you a ring and we'll have a little meet at my place. my treat of course!
thanks again for the generous offer.

regards,

howi

 

You could put the BAC back on and just not plug it in.. you can just pull off the coolant fittings (two screws). It should idle higher that way.


Justin

 

No. The thermowax works just the opposite. Cold with no water going thru it will cause a correctly set thermowax/fast ild cam, to cause the idle to be high. Water going thru it will slow the idle down (or heat transfer thru the throttle body to the thermowax after a good deal of time). Key words: *Correctly Set* The car in question has a honked up adjustment of the throttle body/throttle cable/fast idle cam etc.

 

Well, this was the case with my buddy's TII. We blocked off everything with k2rd plates.. And we ran a megasquirt Standalone system.. First time trying to start it, it would not hold an idle. We put the BAC valve back on and bypassed the coolant, and simply did not plug it back in, and the car idled right about 700 rpms.


This was done on curiousity and it worked.

Justin