t2 problems got fuel spark air
so heres the deal. i have an 87 tII that i just pulled the motor in so that i could rebuild and port it. so i had an extra 6port laying around and a ported turbo lim to match. well i got everything in there and i tried firing it up and it won't run. then when i can get it going it wont go past 2k. it makes no sense. i have all the turbo stuff off the old 4 port and i have every electrical connection that i can think of hooked up. i did swap front covers. but we checked the timing over and over and over. i am completely stumped on this. any ideas. the 6 port has all the turbo stuff injectors manifolds ect. thanks ive been working on this for 3 days now.
hmm so now i have checked and rechecked and i can get it to rev to 2k and then it will just die. i rechecked the timing and i know the pumps working i jumpered the yellow connector on the strut tower. i have deflooded a bunch of times. the motor did sit for about 6 months though so im not sure on whats going on. i also got a good strong battery also.i did notice that it smokes like a mother and i go oil in my exhaust.
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alright so i got it started. it runs like complete ***. lets see i have the following on the car now
550cc injectors.
2 egr block off plates
acv block off
tII uim and lim
tII front cover
oil filter sandwich for the turbo oil feed/oil water/temp
now i am still using the na water pump housing and i didn't change the water thermo sensor. could that be it???
also i am not 100% sure that i got it timed right. it only goes on one way right??? i removed all the pullies when i swapped front covers and i thought that the pully only went on one way. i didn't think that there was a difference between the water thermo sensors but is there????
any help would be greatly apprieciated.
550cc injectors.
2 egr block off plates
acv block off
tII uim and lim
tII front cover
oil filter sandwich for the turbo oil feed/oil water/temp
now i am still using the na water pump housing and i didn't change the water thermo sensor. could that be it???
also i am not 100% sure that i got it timed right. it only goes on one way right??? i removed all the pullies when i swapped front covers and i thought that the pully only went on one way. i didn't think that there was a difference between the water thermo sensors but is there????
any help would be greatly apprieciated.
We assume the sparkplug wires are in the right places.
When you get it running, any manner will do, can you pull one of the LEAD coil wires just out of its bore in the coil, and see constant spark??? Do that while it's idling. NOT while just cranking the enigne over.
If the brake booster line connected at the rear of the intake manifold?
Is the hose off the BAC to the turbo outlet hose connected at both ends?
Is the turbo inlet duct severely cracked where it attaches to the turbo?
Which EM harness did you use? The stock USA turbo EM harness? Probably. Good.
The fuel rails. Are they off the n/a engine or the turbo engine? I'm not sure why I ask right now. Curious.
Is the BOOST sensor vac line connected? And it's electrical connector? Have you tried disconnecting the elec plug from it and then tried to rev over two grand?
Is this engine fully HOT when you try this? Or cold?
The water thermo are the same on n/a or turbo.
Do you KNOW this engine has no broken apex seals? Just pull both bottom spark plugs and rotate the engine with a finger over first one plug then the other and compare pulses. Takes only thirty minutes to confirm they're the same or not.
When you get it running, any manner will do, can you pull one of the LEAD coil wires just out of its bore in the coil, and see constant spark??? Do that while it's idling. NOT while just cranking the enigne over.
If the brake booster line connected at the rear of the intake manifold?
Is the hose off the BAC to the turbo outlet hose connected at both ends?
Is the turbo inlet duct severely cracked where it attaches to the turbo?
Which EM harness did you use? The stock USA turbo EM harness? Probably. Good.
The fuel rails. Are they off the n/a engine or the turbo engine? I'm not sure why I ask right now. Curious.
Is the BOOST sensor vac line connected? And it's electrical connector? Have you tried disconnecting the elec plug from it and then tried to rev over two grand?
Is this engine fully HOT when you try this? Or cold?
The water thermo are the same on n/a or turbo.
Do you KNOW this engine has no broken apex seals? Just pull both bottom spark plugs and rotate the engine with a finger over first one plug then the other and compare pulses. Takes only thirty minutes to confirm they're the same or not.
yep plugs are in the right spot.
yes it getting constant spark
the brake booster line is connected.
ummmm i for got to mention i have no emissions so i have no BAC.
um the TID is on that i made of 3 in exhaust piping and silicone couplers from hightempsilicone.com.
i also am using the tII em harness.
the car is a tII from the factory so it has all the tII parts just a 6 port block while im doing the rebuild on my 4 port.
the fuel rails are both from the tII. ive done this hot and cold.
while i had the motor out we checked the apex seals on the exhaust side and all look in good shape. looks can be decieving though. i did do compression test with a shitty compression tester and i was getting even bounces all the way around, also the same with my finger by the spark plug hole. thank you
yes it getting constant spark
the brake booster line is connected.
ummmm i for got to mention i have no emissions so i have no BAC.
um the TID is on that i made of 3 in exhaust piping and silicone couplers from hightempsilicone.com.
i also am using the tII em harness.
the car is a tII from the factory so it has all the tII parts just a 6 port block while im doing the rebuild on my 4 port.
the fuel rails are both from the tII. ive done this hot and cold.
while i had the motor out we checked the apex seals on the exhaust side and all look in good shape. looks can be decieving though. i did do compression test with a shitty compression tester and i was getting even bounces all the way around, also the same with my finger by the spark plug hole. thank you
oh yeah btw i just hit over 500 post....lol any ideas. i mean that would create a big vac leak plus not get the proper fuel to the motor???? i notice that when i turn the correction on my neo off the engine wants to die also.
Sounds like the SAFC is the problem. Mabe INITIALIZE it and reset it to whatever. Four cylinder, arrow up and to the right. Flap. 05-05
Sounds like it's not in *FLAP*
And the turbo inlet duct.......did you use this on your old engine? Did it work. And what are you using for the air bypass valve (BOV)? Open hole somewhere?
Sounds like it's not in *FLAP*
And the turbo inlet duct.......did you use this on your old engine? Did it work. And what are you using for the air bypass valve (BOV)? Open hole somewhere?
Last edited by HAILERS; Mar 30, 2007 at 09:03 PM.
oh ill do that. i broke the mani so i had to fix that and the fuel leak
. ive been using the same tid for about 3 years with no problems. i also have the RFL bov.
umm hailers i used a stethascope and i was noticing that only my front housing injector was coming on when i spin the cas and the secondary injector on the rear was coming on. so if i pluged it in wrong would that be causeing so many problems???
is it the two shorter plugs to the primaries and the two longer plugs to the secondaries???
. ive been using the same tid for about 3 years with no problems. i also have the RFL bov. umm hailers i used a stethascope and i was noticing that only my front housing injector was coming on when i spin the cas and the secondary injector on the rear was coming on. so if i pluged it in wrong would that be causeing so many problems???
is it the two shorter plugs to the primaries and the two longer plugs to the secondaries???
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH SUCSESS. so it ended up not being anything that i thought it was. it ended up being the injector plugs were wrong. i had the front housing primary right and then i had the rear hosing primary on the secondary.
so keep in mind that the 2 shorter injector clips are to the primaries and the longers are to the secondaries.
so keep in mind that the 2 shorter injector clips are to the primaries and the longers are to the secondaries.
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