T2 LSD or other ones
#1
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T2 LSD or other ones
I was gonna get an LSD for my 88 N/a but there kinda expensive, i saw a cheap T2 LSD and was thinking bout getting it, is it a pain to install or does it go in easily. Would this be a good LSD for drifting or are there better aftermarket ones?
#2
I wanta be with the BUC!
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Unless it comes with the differential housing, and half shafts, it won't just drop into your NA diff.
Also if you want a good drop in to your NA, get a miata TORSEN diff. If you can find one, those are pretty good, or just find one of the NA models that came with a LSD (an 86-88 one preferably...)
Also if you want a good drop in to your NA, get a miata TORSEN diff. If you can find one, those are pretty good, or just find one of the NA models that came with a LSD (an 86-88 one preferably...)
#5
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You all are giving this guy bad advice...
You guys know good and well the t2 rearend does not bolt to the NA driveshaft without modification. You have to stick with an NA rearend.
IF you go to a turbo rear, you have to get the turbo axles, and either modify your current driveshaft or get a custom one made up. None of which is worth doing, the NA will never put down enough power to overcome the NA rearend LSD or not. Just put in an LSD and that is all you'll have to change.
I have one or 2 I can sell, $125 plus shipping.
You guys know good and well the t2 rearend does not bolt to the NA driveshaft without modification. You have to stick with an NA rearend.
IF you go to a turbo rear, you have to get the turbo axles, and either modify your current driveshaft or get a custom one made up. None of which is worth doing, the NA will never put down enough power to overcome the NA rearend LSD or not. Just put in an LSD and that is all you'll have to change.
I have one or 2 I can sell, $125 plus shipping.
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#8
Mazda4Life
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Originally posted by RotaryResurrection
You all are giving this guy bad advice...
You guys know good and well the t2 rearend does not bolt to the NA driveshaft without modification. You have to stick with an NA rearend.
IF you go to a turbo rear, you have to get the turbo axles, and either modify your current driveshaft or get a custom one made up. None of which is worth doing, the NA will never put down enough power to overcome the NA rearend LSD or not. Just put in an LSD and that is all you'll have to change.
I have one or 2 I can sell, $125 plus shipping.
You all are giving this guy bad advice...
You guys know good and well the t2 rearend does not bolt to the NA driveshaft without modification. You have to stick with an NA rearend.
IF you go to a turbo rear, you have to get the turbo axles, and either modify your current driveshaft or get a custom one made up. None of which is worth doing, the NA will never put down enough power to overcome the NA rearend LSD or not. Just put in an LSD and that is all you'll have to change.
I have one or 2 I can sell, $125 plus shipping.
#10
Jesus is the Messiah
^ The comma, and the period, are your friends.
Anyway, the S5 LSD is a viscus LSD, and lasts longer then the clutch type. You dont really replace the LSD when the clutches go bad, you just replace the clutches. Clutches can be bought from MazdaTrix.
The clutch type engages instantly while the viscus takes time to lock up. Torsen engages instantly and doesnt have clutches that wear out.
Anyway, the S5 LSD is a viscus LSD, and lasts longer then the clutch type. You dont really replace the LSD when the clutches go bad, you just replace the clutches. Clutches can be bought from MazdaTrix.
The clutch type engages instantly while the viscus takes time to lock up. Torsen engages instantly and doesnt have clutches that wear out.
#12
Jesus is the Messiah
You replace the carrier, its not THAT hard, its just a PAIN.
You drop the rear subframe of the car, drain the diff, unbolt the CVs and the driveshaft from the diff, drop the diff out, unbolt the casing of the diff, mark all peices and keep track of the number of turns of a screw to get that peice where it was, then pull out the carrier, replace the carrier, torque the bolts down correctly, then reassemble. Replace the side seals and bearings at the very least, and make sure you have the correct half shafts.
Its easier just to buy the whole diff assembly. If you have a TII engine running an NA rear, you SHOULD replace the ENTIRE differential, the CARRIER is not the only weak link here.
You drop the rear subframe of the car, drain the diff, unbolt the CVs and the driveshaft from the diff, drop the diff out, unbolt the casing of the diff, mark all peices and keep track of the number of turns of a screw to get that peice where it was, then pull out the carrier, replace the carrier, torque the bolts down correctly, then reassemble. Replace the side seals and bearings at the very least, and make sure you have the correct half shafts.
Its easier just to buy the whole diff assembly. If you have a TII engine running an NA rear, you SHOULD replace the ENTIRE differential, the CARRIER is not the only weak link here.
#13
Jesus is the Messiah
PS: The NA tranny is also a weak link. A very weak link. if you still have that, it may behove you to replace it.
PPS: One nice individual on the forum sent me a picture of his NA differential after his TII engine got to it. Whole housing split clear into two seperate peices (among other things)
PPS: One nice individual on the forum sent me a picture of his NA differential after his TII engine got to it. Whole housing split clear into two seperate peices (among other things)
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