T2 breaks not what I expected, problems?
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
T2 breaks not what I expected, problems?
Hey guys,
Bought a rx7 with a blown motor a while back. It came with tien coilovers, strut bars, and t2 4 pot calipers on drilled and slotted disks. the previous owner said they had hawk pads on them.
I've never driven a fc before, i had owned a fb for some time. I had some great hopes for the breaking system of the T2, especially compaired to the FB.
I just swapped in another engine, and took her for my first spin. before I did i bled/flushed all the breaks, and the break pedal has a great firm feel, no soggyness at all. After driving it for an hour i wasn't happy with the breaks, I'd really have to push very hard to get any decent breaking performance. and even when really giving it, the performance wasn't great, and i heard the rear drivers wheel lock up a few times.
When i got it home i measured the disk temps for all the rotors with my laser thermometer. the front drivers was 95 celcuis, the pass front was 58 degrees, the rears were 55.
I need some help to make this car stop nice. i was thinking i was gonna replace the pads, just to cut out any questionable pads it may currently have. the front pass caliper isn't siezed, why is the temp much lower? do t2 breaks need the T2 booster and master cylinder? i have the suspicion they are N/A hydraulics. Am i overlooking anything here? i'm now to the FC game.
Thanks guys!
Bought a rx7 with a blown motor a while back. It came with tien coilovers, strut bars, and t2 4 pot calipers on drilled and slotted disks. the previous owner said they had hawk pads on them.
I've never driven a fc before, i had owned a fb for some time. I had some great hopes for the breaking system of the T2, especially compaired to the FB.
I just swapped in another engine, and took her for my first spin. before I did i bled/flushed all the breaks, and the break pedal has a great firm feel, no soggyness at all. After driving it for an hour i wasn't happy with the breaks, I'd really have to push very hard to get any decent breaking performance. and even when really giving it, the performance wasn't great, and i heard the rear drivers wheel lock up a few times.
When i got it home i measured the disk temps for all the rotors with my laser thermometer. the front drivers was 95 celcuis, the pass front was 58 degrees, the rears were 55.
I need some help to make this car stop nice. i was thinking i was gonna replace the pads, just to cut out any questionable pads it may currently have. the front pass caliper isn't siezed, why is the temp much lower? do t2 breaks need the T2 booster and master cylinder? i have the suspicion they are N/A hydraulics. Am i overlooking anything here? i'm now to the FC game.
Thanks guys!
If the car originally came with the single piston front calipers, it may indeed have the smaller master cylinder/booster...but this doesn't account for your issues.
Worst case scenario from the smaller MC/booster is slightly longer pedal travel.
You may be looking at the wrong caliper...it's possible your driver side caliper pistons are not retracting which would overheat the fluid and degrade performance.
Since you just bought the car, I'd use a "scorched earth" approach- rebuild the calipers, turn/replace the rotors, new pads and fully flush the fluid.
That should do it.
Worst case scenario from the smaller MC/booster is slightly longer pedal travel.
You may be looking at the wrong caliper...it's possible your driver side caliper pistons are not retracting which would overheat the fluid and degrade performance.
Since you just bought the car, I'd use a "scorched earth" approach- rebuild the calipers, turn/replace the rotors, new pads and fully flush the fluid.
That should do it.
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Jeff20B
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Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM