No, at any power levels it'll help because you'll be keeping the engine in a rev range where it's making more power, making you slightly faster. Gearing is MORE important when you don't have a lot of power to work with, because you have to make the best of it with what you've got to work with. Big powerful engines with lots of torque like a big V8 don't need 6 gears, sure it's faster, but they can easily get by with 2 or 3 and let the torque do it's thing, whereas a small engined car could be practically incapable of operating with so few gears. Try driving around using only second and fifth, or maybe first, third and fifth and you'll start to understand why more gears can be better.

 

Yes, that makes more sense, & we are on the same page. Although I still think that the tighter gears on the FE will help an N/A by being @ a higher RPM after the up-shift. Depends on the power-band how much it will actually help.

That's not completely destroyed either There are a few things that really REALLY **** me off in life and attentions ****** are one of them. People who need to stand up to be heard or to post really anger me becuase they are a special breed of attention *****. (they need to stand becuase they are talking/posting out of thier *** ) People who post **** without knowing WTF they are talking about should earn an insta-perma-ban and then be flogged on top of that. There is a member here who is notorious for it. Notorious to the point that every time I call him out on his particular brand of BS, he changes his name becuase he needs the attention soooooo much - Rotaman99. Look up a few of his OMP posts and you'll see what I'm talking about. He posted as fact that the OMP is a low flow, low pressure pump. He determined this by "adapting" (actually I did the fab work and I will never forgive myself for doing a favor for him ) his OMP to accept 2-stroke then he put a junkyard omp on his workbench and began driving it with cordless drill and measured the amount of pressure with some garbage gauge. He then posts his findings up as fact as if he is actaully educated enough to be speaking intelligently about fluid dynamics. Hailers comes in (we all know Hailers) and posts up about having used his functioning OMP on his car to test the system and found out that there was so much pressure that the line burst off the gauge ~40PSI IIRC. Who are we going to believe here not becuase of reputation but becuase of the test that was performed. Yet had Hailers not done the test misinformation could be spread around. Someone might think that becuase there is "so little to 0 pressure" they can build some crappy lines and then wonder why the line burst and thier FC is now a molten heap.
Rotoman99 is also the person who replied to a thread asking about wheel spacers to fit FD rims on an FC by saying, "I dunno which one to use, just start stacking them until they fit." That advice is dangerous. As is the advice alot of idiots give out to just crank on the lugs without knowing what the torque is. Anyone ever seen a wheel come flying off on the highway? I have, I also know of a good buddy who lost a wheel on the highway because someone didn't torque it down right. The same thing almost happened to me. I was blessed, I heard some clunking and when I went to look at what the hell was going on I had abou -10* camber on a rear tire. My asshat friend didn't torque them down enough. Yet these tools feel the need to post up that torqueing wheels isn't important.

Misinformation given to n00bs and people who don't know better can actually end up costing someone thier life. That's why it pisses me off so much. I don't care if we're asking about a tranny or how to re-wire an intank fuel pump. If you don't know - SHUT THE **** UP.

 

If you buy an FE trans, stay away from the '04 model. The '04 trannys had some recall issues/frequent repair issues. T-von on this board is familiar with them.

 

There's an excellent analogy and let me add this - How many speeds to Frieght-haulers (18 wheelers) have? And those engines are putting out ~1400 ft/lbs of torque. That's more with the weight of whats moving, and the limited RPMs of those monster diesels.

 

You can start off in 5th gear Lo and still move. No fuel needed either. This mainly has to do with the amount of low end torque pushing through the engine. Ask me how I know?

 

I'm glad you like that idea, I just came up with it while posting. I like it too as it's the exact same thing, going from fewer, wider spaced gears to more, closer gears, albeit a bit more extreme than going from an FC 5 speed to an FE 6 speed, but that makes it better at clearly demonstrating the difference. Anyone trying it will likely quickly shut up about 6 speeds not being helpful (although I think those 7 and 8 speed autos from Mercedes Benz and Lexus are getting a bit excessive, why not just go CVT at that point?).

 

Wow, that is by far the largest font ever directed at me....
Anyway, I apologize for posting inaccurate information. I was somewhat confused and somewhat bad at explaining about the extra gear, and I was flat out wrong on the tallest gear ratio. I swear to God I had seen the gear ratios and they were very similar. I still day its overkill for a regular street engine, but it don't doubt that it is great for many highly ported engines.

 

well it seems that everyone is biting each others heads off, and its probably due to me not providing sufficient information. i honestly didn't think i would have to. knowing what i would have to do to mate this tranny to this engine and what sort of horsepower i would need to make to make the swap worth while was to help decide what way to go with the motor build-up. i plan on keeping the rotary platform and staying away from the v8 swap, which would be easier but would make me another mustang with a different face. if there are any other questions feel free to pick this apart and i will gladly answer back.

francisco

 

All previous e-thuggery retracted - an apology and admittance of fault! You sir have earned some respect.

I get particularily pissed about this subject becuase of the amount of mis-information spread around especially regarding the gear rations & the strength. The rensis blows it up, it's weak!!! is such LIES!!!!!

 

Okay now I see where your coming from..If I had my OMP lines burst and my FC became a molten heap I would be as pissed off as you are from misinformation.

ALWAYS torque lugnuts, I never ever ever half *** that, I usually just use a proper torque stick at work and triple check..But say if I have a flat tire and no torque wrench around I just torque the living **** out of them without busting off the studs and pull off the temp and torque um when I get home.

Well as far as tranny swaps I still say buy an NA tranny (if your NA) or you could buy a T2 tranny and get the custom driveshaft from Mazdatrix because the NA shaft doesn't bolt the t2 tranny to the NA rear end.

 

It's not the worst thing in the world to use more than one spacer, but it should be a last resort. We've done it on a GT3 race car a number of times because we didn't have enough of the right spacer sizes when swapping from the slicks to the R's.

 

Don't know about the 7 and 8 speed transmissions, but I know the cvt is weak as ****. For a normaly driven car its great, but something that sees much track time, they tend to break. Does anyone even make a v8 car with a cvt? Ownage via torque? I dunno, I just can't think of any off the top of my head.

 

Just because the current ones are weak doesn't mean that one strong enough for a big engined, big sedans can't be designed. Those tranmissions are brand new designs, so why couldn't they have spent that on making a better CVT?

CVT's are the fastest and most efficient transmission available. Top A-Mod autocrossers use them.

 

No it's not but he said just keep stacking them until they fit. I'm sure I can find it easily too. That is just horrible advice for a street car that could go 10's of thousands of miles before the lug nuts are checked again. If you don't know, don't post. That's all I'm saying.

 

Absolutely, not hard info to find at all.

 

you work at a mustang shop so you should know T56s aint cheap.
Parts for them aint cheap either.

You could buy 3-4, maybe more, FC transmissions for the price of a T56.

Currently I own a few FCs, one of them has a T56, I can tell you 100% if I would rather have a 5 speed in the car.

I find myself hunting for a gear too much with the 6 speed, having driven this style car for so long with a 5 speed you get too used to it.

When I had the T56 rebuilt because of a grinding gear I found out how valuable these transmissions are, used ones could not be found under $1500, and who knows what problems those would have?
Instead I had a high up guy from Rockland rebuild mine, he replaced EVERYTHING- thank god he is a customer of mine otherwise I was getting prices close to $2k for rebuilds because im told the parts in them are expensive and dont wear well.

Now if you had mega horsepower then I would say its worth the effort, otherwise I think your efforts could be better spend elsewhere.

 

Is that T56 bolted to an LSX or a 13B??

 

The gearing of the T-56 on the stock ring and pinion isn't very good for a rotary though (taller 1st and really tall 6th, wider 3-4 shift), it'd work much better on a V8. Not really the best ambasador of 6 speeds for the rotary world. The RX-8 box has much better ratios for a rotary engine (surprise, surprise).

 

great word and don't stop the e-thuggery when necessary, it makes my day!

 

havent met RETed yet huh?

 

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=25336566

never a cool thing

prime example of what TTT is talking about

 

Apparently he got sent the wrong lug nuts and didn't notice when he put them on (how you can do that I have no idea).

 

TT- mine is bolted to a dynoed 340hp at the wheels 380 ftlbs tq LTI

I just dont like the 6 speeds, too much shifting, 1st gear is pretty useless, 2nd is gone pretty damm quick too, but man 3rd gear is a rush.

Like I said though- if you have alot of power and a FC tranny aint gonna cut it then you enter into the supra or t56 or other trans options, but you got to be over 500hp and going to be abusing it to be worth it in my OPINION.

 

just get your stock transmission rebuilt.

period.

cheapest and best solution for OP

 

I had my TII trans rebuilt recently, $800 with all "soft" parts, 2 year warranty.
Thats over the counter, not R&R'd