cpubugs

I have been told by several semi-reputible Rotary Mechanics locally several different things...

After removing all emissions, I added a yahoo belt and my car the 88 Vert ran perfectly cool right at 1/4 no higher and actually slightly below it. Every now and then the yahoo belt would loosen and I'd just go pick up a new one and replace it, kind of a pain but it wasn't very often so it was ok. Well it started running hot so I went and bought a new yahoo and alt belt replaced like normal and everything seemed fine. Until my way home from work that next day the 35 miles to work buisness as normal, but headed home I had to stop probably 9 times to cool off and add water.. NEVER letting it get over half way but the water was boiling out of the over flow.. My first thought was stuck thermostat. so i removed it... same problem.. so i checked the oil oil was fine no water. take the cap off and the water is flowing as normal and the water pump is not spewing water also the water pump is barely 6 months old so I am pretty sure its not a water pump... so it is still over heating. Talked to a few mech friends and friends of friends and one says i may have spun a bearing.. Well after doing searches here one of the symptoms of a spun bearing is loss of power something I am not experiencing. Actually the car is running better now than it has ever run since I've had it. Also another symptopm I've read about and seen with my own eyes is metal in the oil filter area. I have none... So I would think coolant seal or water jacket issue but I am not loosing coolant other than boiling out, and the flow seems uninturrpted and again no oil in the water or water in the oil... so.... the next suggestion was timing... Can timing cause this issue??? And one last issue was "have you bled the coolant system maybe you have air in the system." No and I have no idea how... anyway figured I'd see what you have to say...

RandomHero

iTrader: (2)

Getting air out of the system is key to running the proper temperature. Check the Fsm or haynes/chilton manual to make sure you are doing it properly. Also, you are running close to a 50/50 mixture of coolant to distilled water right? Usually run more water than coolant as it has a better cooling effect, the coolant is there to make sure it doesnt freeze and the ethelyne glyclol helps make the water more slick so it flows better. Also helps against corrosion.

When its up to temperature, make sure the upper radiator hose is good and hot, and squeeze it just a bit to make sure it is holding pressure.

cpubugs

Right mixture, I buy a premixed 50/50. Actually had less problems when the car was running on water alone... Anyway system holds pressure brand new caps, and No leaks whatso ever. Upper hose is certainly hot. I am almost wondering if something is clogged but not clogged enough to prevent flow. I replaced the radiator with a spare and that didn't help either... I'll bleed the system and see what happens... I just need to get this thing to stop over heating so I can sell it. I refuse to sell it with a major issue like this.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Look up a Rad filling apparatus made by LISLE,I believe is the name of the Manufacturer..it is like a Funnel,with an attachment that goes on your Rad cap holder.It holds the funnel on there and allows the Cooling system to Run while the cap is Off,and the funnel sits there on the Holder.The Coolant will then Circulate when the cap is off(car running) and Burp out any air that is in the system..it is a Real Handy little Rig..Cost about 10-15 Bucks..

FattMarrell

blown head gasket?





lol jk
Even though the water pump is decently new I'd still inspect it and eliminate that possibility.

another7driver

Some s4 engines require a genuine mazda oem thermostat to function properly.
This applied to my s4t2, went through 5 off-the-shelf ones that cooked at 205F+ instead of the 180F(190? been a while since I had that car) that the oem ran.
I'm not sure it would matter on your application, but something you should look into nevertheless.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

He said he removed it altogether so that would eliminate the t stat as a possible culprit. Try bleeding the system since that is easy and free. Start the car cold and run it with the rad. cap off until it fully warms up. Or run the engine and get it hot, then put a rag over the rad. cap and loosen it, that seems to get all the bubbles out.

Make sure your yohoo belt isn't slipping at all, rev the engine and see if it does.

rogrx7

iTrader: (11)

dual belt

cpubugs

the yahoo belt makes it a dual belt. but that is another goal I ordered a pulley from someone that advertised n the forums here and 2 months later I finally got my 20 bucks back from paypal. so i just havent tried again.