2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Swapped an '87 engine into an '86

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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 02:55 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tmills1987
I'm sorry, I'm not familiar, ATF trick? And yes, the '86's harness is on the engine and in the car right now.

Well, I assume that at this point the car cranks but does not want to turn over...a pretty well know trick is to add a little...maybe 1 oz of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) in the housings via the trailing spark plug holes to try and re-lubricate and or build compression...it does work. You may also try some de-flooding methods first.
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #27  
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From: Wisconsin
And the cons about this method? I just don't want to hurt my car in any way if possible.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 02:17 PM
  #28  
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it'll smoke like hell when/if it starts. i wouldnt put a lot, use like a childs medicine syringe and a few ml (5-10) in through the leading plug holes, but i would deflood first with the plugs pulled pedal on the floor and cas unplugged or egi fuse pulled. crank until no clouds are seen coming out of the plug holes, then inject atf, reassemble everything and try again. this is kinda a band aid fix if the compression in compromised for some reason. if it starts and then dies shortly after could be due to low compression, hopefully at this point all of your variables are known good (i.e. injectors working, cas stabbed correctly...). good luck.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 04:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Rx7Ridah
it'll smoke like hell when/if it starts. i wouldnt put a lot, use like a childs medicine syringe and a few ml (5-10) in through the leading plug holes, but i would deflood first with the plugs pulled pedal on the floor and cas unplugged or egi fuse pulled. crank until no clouds are seen coming out of the plug holes, then inject atf, reassemble everything and try again. this is kinda a band aid fix if the compression in compromised for some reason. if it starts and then dies shortly after could be due to low compression, hopefully at this point all of your variables are known good (i.e. injectors working, cas stabbed correctly...). good luck.
Couple quick questions first so I do not mess this up. Kind of dumb questions too, but please bare with me. "cas unplugged" - I'm not sure what this means. Also, I do not believe I'm fairly certain I know exactly which one the EGI fuse is. One last thing, when injecting the ATF, just straight into the spark plug holes, or on the spark plugs directly?

Thank you guys for the help. It's much appreciated.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #30  
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So I figured it all out, with some help of course. Fuel pump!! Time to replace that.
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 09:54 PM
  #31  
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cas is crank angle sensor, egi fuse is in the engine bay, pic of fuse box can be found in the faq section. might i ask what brought you to the bad fuel pump conclusion? the pump wont turn on with the key on unless you jump the initial set coupler or pull the air filter out and gently push the mass air meter flapper door slightly open.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 10:55 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Rx7Ridah
cas is crank angle sensor, egi fuse is in the engine bay, pic of fuse box can be found in the faq section. might i ask what brought you to the bad fuel pump conclusion? the pump wont turn on with the key on unless you jump the initial set coupler or pull the air filter out and gently push the mass air meter flapper door slightly open.

If I'm correct, which I hope so 'cause the book told me this and my dad (he's worked with cars a lot) anyways.. we checked the fuel pressure using a fuel pressure tester and we had nothing. We also tried turning the key on and listening for the pump for that 2 seconds it kicks on but still nothing. Then we checked for power back by the pump, and it has power.
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