suspension
#1
10 pounds sounds so nasty
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suspension
i was just wondering what kind of suspension set up's you guys were running on your fc's.
i thought about running tokico shocks and struts with Racing Beat springs, ST sway bars, aluminum Rear subframe and differential bushing kit, and Competition Front Lower Control Arms.
i thought about running tokico shocks and struts with Racing Beat springs, ST sway bars, aluminum Rear subframe and differential bushing kit, and Competition Front Lower Control Arms.
#2
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I haven't heard of competiition front lower control arms. Are they aluminum or something? Where do you get them?
There is no best setup. Most everything out there is good. It's a trade-off between ride comfort and handling. Do a search to see what other people are running and pick what you prefer.
You have the option of adjustable or non-adjustable shocks. Adjustable shocks let you switch between a stiff ride and a soft ride by turning a valve on each shock. Springs are always non-adjustable, of course, so you're still somewhat limited by the spring you choose. Eibach springs (and other progressive springs) are half-stiff, half-soft, but not the best at being either.
You'll want to either eliminate or replace your worn out rear wheel steering. Eliminator bushings are $40. OEM replacement is $180. A search will give you more info.
There is no best setup. Most everything out there is good. It's a trade-off between ride comfort and handling. Do a search to see what other people are running and pick what you prefer.
You have the option of adjustable or non-adjustable shocks. Adjustable shocks let you switch between a stiff ride and a soft ride by turning a valve on each shock. Springs are always non-adjustable, of course, so you're still somewhat limited by the spring you choose. Eibach springs (and other progressive springs) are half-stiff, half-soft, but not the best at being either.
You'll want to either eliminate or replace your worn out rear wheel steering. Eliminator bushings are $40. OEM replacement is $180. A search will give you more info.
Last edited by ericgrau; 10-08-06 at 02:06 AM.
#4
10 pounds sounds so nasty
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Originally Posted by ericgrau
I haven't heard of competiition front lower control arms. Are they aluminum or something? Where do you get them?
There is no best setup. Most everything out there is good. It's a trade-off between ride comfort and handling. Do a search to see what other people are running and pick what you prefer.
You have the option of adjustable or non-adjustable shocks. Adjustable shocks let you switch between a stiff ride and a soft ride by turning a valve on each shock. Springs are always non-adjustable, of course, so you're still somewhat limited by the spring you choose. Eibach springs (and other progressive springs) are half-stiff, half-soft, but not the best at being either.
You'll want to either eliminate or replace your worn out rear wheel steering. Eliminator bushings are $40. OEM replacement is $180. A search will give you more info.
There is no best setup. Most everything out there is good. It's a trade-off between ride comfort and handling. Do a search to see what other people are running and pick what you prefer.
You have the option of adjustable or non-adjustable shocks. Adjustable shocks let you switch between a stiff ride and a soft ride by turning a valve on each shock. Springs are always non-adjustable, of course, so you're still somewhat limited by the spring you choose. Eibach springs (and other progressive springs) are half-stiff, half-soft, but not the best at being either.
You'll want to either eliminate or replace your worn out rear wheel steering. Eliminator bushings are $40. OEM replacement is $180. A search will give you more info.
the competiition front lower control arms i found at rotorsportsracing.com
#5
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Honestly, until you start competitively racing, all you will ever need is a good quality coilover setup and maybe some aftermarket sway bars and strut towe bars. I have the GC coilvers with eibach springs (come in kit) and KYB AGX struts. It handles amazingly well for the street, thought its a bit stiff for some. Its also good for the track if you ever do track days.
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#8
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race beat sway bars ,urethane bushings is all im running right now the bushings made a differance for the price u minuse well replace the stock rubber ones bcs they dont last forever like the urethane ones it made the response a lil chrisper and more consistant do to not having as much slop as the stock ones
#9
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Here is my suspension set up for my 88 ragtop.
Suspension techniques front and rear sway bars. got them from Summit racing
KYB AGX ajustable shock set to level 2 (4 is max) damping on the front and level 4 (8 is max) on the rear. also from Summit
Replaced the factory sway bar bushings in the oem links with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings.fromn RX7Store.com
Was advised by several performance shops that heim type units were not recommended for street use as they woud transmit excessive noise thru to passenger compartment.
Replaced worn out front and rear control arm bushings with new Mazda factory units. Again PolyU would likely be unecessary for a street driven car. So the Very expensive needle bearing units from rotorsports would be overkill. if you want stiffer than stock use polyurethane and stiffer still would be the delrin units from Mazdatrix.
Racing Beat Spring set for the convertible because of the extra weight. RX7specialties in Calgary,AB These are about 1 in drop.
Ingalls front camber adjusting bolts for the top spindle mount bolt. allows 2 degrees of camber ajustment to compensate for the spring drop. from summit racing
Mazdatrix rear camber adjuster ditto for the ajustment
Suspension techniques front and rear sway bars. got them from Summit racing
KYB AGX ajustable shock set to level 2 (4 is max) damping on the front and level 4 (8 is max) on the rear. also from Summit
Replaced the factory sway bar bushings in the oem links with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings.fromn RX7Store.com
Was advised by several performance shops that heim type units were not recommended for street use as they woud transmit excessive noise thru to passenger compartment.
Replaced worn out front and rear control arm bushings with new Mazda factory units. Again PolyU would likely be unecessary for a street driven car. So the Very expensive needle bearing units from rotorsports would be overkill. if you want stiffer than stock use polyurethane and stiffer still would be the delrin units from Mazdatrix.
Racing Beat Spring set for the convertible because of the extra weight. RX7specialties in Calgary,AB These are about 1 in drop.
Ingalls front camber adjusting bolts for the top spindle mount bolt. allows 2 degrees of camber ajustment to compensate for the spring drop. from summit racing
Mazdatrix rear camber adjuster ditto for the ajustment
#10
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I've got RB sways, Energy Suspension urethane bushings in the front, Corksport Strut bars front and back and a custom lower arm bar in the front. It handles pretty well, but it's got a bit too much indersteer at the limit. I'm saving for coilovers.
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