Suspected fueling problem - stumped
#1
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Suspected fueling problem - stumped
Right, so if you have seen one of my threads before you probably have seen me trouble shoot 34 billion things to try get my silly FC started.
Now that I have finished uni for the year, its time to get back into it.
So, I seem to be having problems with what I have narrowed down to be the fuel pump.
I can get it firing with starter fluid but it won't catch. I checked the fuel lines as I have removed emissions and they have been rerouted as per instructions.
I'll double check tomorrow but the 3B pin on the ecu gets 12v at start (which IIRC tells the car to add fuel).
To test the fuel pump I have jumped the yellow connector which should start it when the key is on. With this I have had mixed results, sometimes not being able to hear it - again I will have to have a better look at it tomorrow. I pulled the return off the fuel line and with about 6 seconds of cranking there was only about a table spoon of gas in there. Before I fixed various other issues (the 3b pin not getting power and switching the starter out) this would have had a constant flow of petrol (didn't fire due to a friend switching the leads order >_<)
Is it possible that the fuel pump has just ****ed itself? Or am I missing something.
Hopefully my ramblings make sense.
Now that I have finished uni for the year, its time to get back into it.
So, I seem to be having problems with what I have narrowed down to be the fuel pump.
I can get it firing with starter fluid but it won't catch. I checked the fuel lines as I have removed emissions and they have been rerouted as per instructions.
I'll double check tomorrow but the 3B pin on the ecu gets 12v at start (which IIRC tells the car to add fuel).
To test the fuel pump I have jumped the yellow connector which should start it when the key is on. With this I have had mixed results, sometimes not being able to hear it - again I will have to have a better look at it tomorrow. I pulled the return off the fuel line and with about 6 seconds of cranking there was only about a table spoon of gas in there. Before I fixed various other issues (the 3b pin not getting power and switching the starter out) this would have had a constant flow of petrol (didn't fire due to a friend switching the leads order >_<)
Is it possible that the fuel pump has just ****ed itself? Or am I missing something.
Hopefully my ramblings make sense.
#2
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Right, so if you have seen one of my threads before you probably have seen me trouble shoot 34 billion things to try get my silly FC started.
Now that I have finished uni for the year, its time to get back into it.
So, I seem to be having problems with what I have narrowed down to be the fuel pump.
I can get it firing with starter fluid but it won't catch. I checked the fuel lines as I have removed emissions and they have been rerouted as per instructions.
I'll double check tomorrow but the 3B pin on the ecu gets 12v at start (which IIRC tells the car to add fuel).
To test the fuel pump I have jumped the yellow connector which should start it when the key is on. With this I have had mixed results, sometimes not being able to hear it - again I will have to have a better look at it tomorrow. I pulled the return off the fuel line and with about 6 seconds of cranking there was only about a table spoon of gas in there. Before I fixed various other issues (the 3b pin not getting power and switching the starter out) this would have had a constant flow of petrol (didn't fire due to a friend switching the leads order >_<)
Is it possible that the fuel pump has just ****ed itself? Or am I missing something.
Hopefully my ramblings make sense.
Now that I have finished uni for the year, its time to get back into it.
So, I seem to be having problems with what I have narrowed down to be the fuel pump.
I can get it firing with starter fluid but it won't catch. I checked the fuel lines as I have removed emissions and they have been rerouted as per instructions.
I'll double check tomorrow but the 3B pin on the ecu gets 12v at start (which IIRC tells the car to add fuel).
To test the fuel pump I have jumped the yellow connector which should start it when the key is on. With this I have had mixed results, sometimes not being able to hear it - again I will have to have a better look at it tomorrow. I pulled the return off the fuel line and with about 6 seconds of cranking there was only about a table spoon of gas in there. Before I fixed various other issues (the 3b pin not getting power and switching the starter out) this would have had a constant flow of petrol (didn't fire due to a friend switching the leads order >_<)
Is it possible that the fuel pump has just ****ed itself? Or am I missing something.
Hopefully my ramblings make sense.
#3
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Cheers,
Yea the fuses are all good (never hurts to double check). The car has been sitting for a year and a bit now, but it was running perfect not so long ago >_<.
Yea the fuses are all good (never hurts to double check). The car has been sitting for a year and a bit now, but it was running perfect not so long ago >_<.
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I noticed in your profile that you have a series 4 car. Is it N/A or turbo?
Are you sure that you didn't accidentally switch/mix up the fuel lines? Do you have access to an extra fuel pump to test in your car??
Are you sure that you didn't accidentally switch/mix up the fuel lines? Do you have access to an extra fuel pump to test in your car??
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Cool, thanks for the info.
Its a 1987 S4 turbo. I have the fuel lines as per the emissions removal guide, fuel filter to primary rail then secondary to return.
Unfortunately I don't have a spare on me. I'll check flow from the filter and that will tell me if its between there and the pump or in the rails.
I havent rewired the pump yet.
Is it possible the tank sucked some dirt up or something and blocked the line?
Its a 1987 S4 turbo. I have the fuel lines as per the emissions removal guide, fuel filter to primary rail then secondary to return.
Unfortunately I don't have a spare on me. I'll check flow from the filter and that will tell me if its between there and the pump or in the rails.
I havent rewired the pump yet.
Is it possible the tank sucked some dirt up or something and blocked the line?
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Interesting, its flowing like a **** through the filter. When I pulled the line off there was a lot of pressure. There must be a block somewhere in the rail. Its possible that I stupidly left a piece of plastic shopping bag in there from when I was masking and painting. Ill now pull the top off and start inspecting.
Is there any injector seal that may have caused this? IIRC there isn't one in the actual rail except for the o-ring on the top of the injector (which I replaced) and would be unlikely to pop off.
Is there any injector seal that may have caused this? IIRC there isn't one in the actual rail except for the o-ring on the top of the injector (which I replaced) and would be unlikely to pop off.
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Ahh haa!
Found the issue...
This thing (pulsation damper?) on the end is completely blocking the flow.
What should I do?
Researching niow...
Found the issue...
This thing (pulsation damper?) on the end is completely blocking the flow.
What should I do?
Researching niow...
#13
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uhh, that's not a pulsation dampener. someone put a second fuel pressure regulator on your inlet pipe... it's trying to push fuel through that pressure regulator backwards, which will allow a tiny bit of fuel to flow, about a tablespoon every few seconds as you said earlier.
#14
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uhh, that's not a pulsation dampener. someone put a second fuel pressure regulator on your inlet pipe... it's trying to push fuel through that pressure regulator backwards, which will allow a tiny bit of fuel to flow, about a tablespoon every few seconds as you said earlier.
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Well **** no wonder its not starting...
I had a few fuel rails when I stripped it down and must have swapped it with another one because it was running fine before I took it off the road. I didn't even notice >_<.
So should I just remove it and do the banjo bolt mod or will I need to get a turbo rail?
I had a few fuel rails when I stripped it down and must have swapped it with another one because it was running fine before I took it off the road. I didn't even notice >_<.
So should I just remove it and do the banjo bolt mod or will I need to get a turbo rail?
#19
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pull out your proper turbo primary rail and swap it if it is a turbo car.
in either case it's up to the condition of the part, i wouldn't junk the dampener if it's relatively new. if it's old and the screw is loose, order the banjo bolt.
i'm assuming it now has 2 FPRs, one on each rail otherwise there would be no return outlet on the secondary rail if the FPR was switched in position with the PD.
in either case it's up to the condition of the part, i wouldn't junk the dampener if it's relatively new. if it's old and the screw is loose, order the banjo bolt.
i'm assuming it now has 2 FPRs, one on each rail otherwise there would be no return outlet on the secondary rail if the FPR was switched in position with the PD.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-30-11 at 10:50 PM.
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I sold off the original one I think . Whats the difference?
Looks like the FPR and the PD have been switched over, here is the secondary rail...
#22
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the turbo rail has a more stout casting and larger diameter bore. you can run the n/a rail but the turbo rail is more ideal.
yep, just swap the FPR and the PD positions, should cure your issues.
on second thought that could well be a turbo rail, sorry i'm not at my shop there was 2 versions of the n/a rail and 1 of the TII. the n/a rail had a ski slope on it and the turbo had a rib on it, as far as i can remember now after thinking more about it.
yep, just swap the FPR and the PD positions, should cure your issues.
on second thought that could well be a turbo rail, sorry i'm not at my shop there was 2 versions of the n/a rail and 1 of the TII. the n/a rail had a ski slope on it and the turbo had a rib on it, as far as i can remember now after thinking more about it.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-30-11 at 11:02 PM.
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the turbo rail has a more stout casting and larger diameter bore. you can run the n/a rail but the turbo rail is more ideal.
yep, just swap the FPR and the PD positions, should cure your issues.
on second thought that could well be a turbo rail, sorry i'm not at my shop there was 2 versions of the n/a rail and 1 of the TII. the n/a rail had a ski slope on it and the turbo had a rib on it, as far as i can remember now after thinking more about it.
yep, just swap the FPR and the PD positions, should cure your issues.
on second thought that could well be a turbo rail, sorry i'm not at my shop there was 2 versions of the n/a rail and 1 of the TII. the n/a rail had a ski slope on it and the turbo had a rib on it, as far as i can remember now after thinking more about it.
Oh ok, my spare parts motor was a turbo so hopefully these rails are from it.
The PD goes on fine but the FPR doesnt look right. Should the return nipple be in the grove?
Here is the primary - Now with new PD!
ALSO AN IMPORTANT QUESTION - Should I be able to blow air through the FPR? At the moment I can't at all