So I'm curious about what eventually destroys people's engine. Please respond to the survey if and only if you've had a blown engine before and you replaced it or otherwise moved on. To prevent guesses, please don't respond if you think your engine might currently be blown. I'm sorry if the options given aren't very good. If I knew everything about what blows engines I wouldn't be posting this poll. And yes, I searched.

 

I removed mine in favor of a Turbo engine. The old motor will be rebuilt, bridgeported and dumped into an FB, which will most likely be a huge pain in the ***.

 

30 PSI took mine out...

 

Mine had a blown coolant seal or rather a blown side housing to be exact. The outer wall of the inner o-ring groove was destroyed in two places.

 

Top seal rolled out and took out the rest. Not exactly sure why but it did have 85 psi and 167K miles with tons of blowby

 

My cooling system was hooped on my first car and before I knew it, it blew without me noticing...

 

someone who owned the car before me blew my engine. idk how, exactly. Probably ran it without enough oil, seeing as he was running straight water instead of a water-coolant mixture.

 

Knock sensor failed and blew an apex seal.

 

In my turbo2:

engine #1 came in car: was a frankenblock with s4 and s5 parts, don't know how it held together as long as it did

engine #2 from mazmart: made 400+rwhp on stock motor with a bunch of boost. eventually had coolant issues. After teardown the water passages had bunches of rust spots. Apparently this block sat around a while without proper treatment.
http://countercultured.net/pics/cars...4/IMG_0009.JPG


engine #3 built myself: after tuning and taking this out on the highway.. 20psi pull in 4th and suddently the boost spiked up and pegged my gauge. My abs unit leaked on a boost hose to the wastegate and the hose blew a hole in itself. Replaced ABS with a T-block

in my fd:
engine #1: fuel pump failed during a highway pull
engine #2: I rebuild said engine and forget to flush the oil coolers, bye bye soft seals and bearings.
engine #3: fuel injector harness issue

 

1: coolant seal
2: Detonated from a lean condition caused by mislabled weber jets.
3: Spun bearing

 

NYT .....wow speachless
for me just running 12psi for bout 2 weeks...front 2 apexi seals shot. I like the smell of gas but not that much

 

1: detonated at 15psi, stock everything... oops :P
2: detonated at 1/3 throttle and 3500RPM, maybe 6-7psi. Still not sure WTF happened here, maybe a knock sensor issue
3: Overrevved killed the compression, engine still worked fine but was hard to start. Rebuilt and halfbridged. Hasn't died yet

other engines that I've killed:
1 in my vert: died at idle, spat an apex seal
2 in my vert: Sllooowww death from a coolant seal. Just pulled it out and am replacing it now.

 

blew an apex seal in the rear rotor of my 88 SE. i dont know how it happened but i assume that the seal just "gave up" on startup.

 

What causes a spun bearing? EDIT: nmind I lost my laziness and searched. Usually caused by having no oil on the bearing, if it happens in a stock engine anyway.

Too bad I can't let people vote more than once. If you post(ed) multiple blown engines, please specify which one determined your vote. When this is over I'll tally up the extra engines and post the real vote totals.

 

Blew mine due to detonation (I am 99%) sure. I had removed the front cover to fix an oil leak. Had everything back together nice and neat. Must have bothced the timing marks though. The car started up perfect and ran perfect, even when I got on it. Made boost, and had 10.0 AFR's while on boost. The next day I was on my way to a rotary meet when I nailed it in 1st, shifted to second and it hit around 6k and just died out. The car shook violently and I limped home on one rotor. I assume the timing ended up too advanced and I blew it out the rear rotor. Thankfully the seals didn't hit my turbo. Time for a temporary engine and a rebuild

 

bad coolant seal/front housing. I didnt know about it and went to start up the next spring and had no compression. When i took it apart my front, intermediate iron and rotor were rusted and all rotor seals rusted in place.

 

My friend's oil cooler lines went and the engine lasted about a mile after we realized that it had no damn oil! Oil pressure guage bottomed out :0

 

Engine 1 - Coolant Seal at 80k miles
Engine 2 - Cold weather boost spike to 20psi

 

same thing happend with mine...
only difference was it was my own carelesness to pop the hood up and inspect everything like i had already made a habit... snapped alt belt killed everything.
looked like Final Destination to a squatt on my engine coolant system.

 

Is it possible to spit an apex seal out the exhaust without boost? I'm curious b/c I see an 88 SE and a vert that did so and I wonder if they're turbo or not.

 

coolant seal started to leak. eventually it started smoking a lot during start ups. it usually started on 1 rotor till the other rotor cleared up the leaking coolant.

only 75k on original motor too T.T

 

My Stant POS t-stat stuck and fried my coolant seals and managed to take a 1 inch chunk out of the front iron casting. The factory temp guage sucks. OEM t-stats from here on out! Since the overheating, I toredown, ported and rebuilt the entire motor myself. All the hard work is done, but only if it runs when I put it back in the car!

 

Spun bearings are caused by lack of oil pressure.

Oil pressure keeps the rotating mass off the bearing surfaces, it's like a ball bearing, except you have oil instead of the *****.

 

#1 the first turbo engine in the vert ran lean and flatten the apex seal springs

#2 engine, the rear rotor cracked along the apex seal grove, the rotors were milled to 3mm

#3 engine, spun front stationary gear bearing

 

17 psi on stock motor forgot ,to plug the knock sensor back on