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SuperNow Front controll arm pillow bushings and bearings
Anyone tried them? Whats your experience? I just ordered both bushings to the front control arms and the duraluminium strenghtened front hubs from rhdjapan since awr is not avalible anymore. Please throw me some input!
I just cant wait! And it will take months before ill find out...... but also the installation process is a bit special with som cutting and milling to the front control arms that ppl might have some oppinions about, also curious about how the added caster affects the suspension....its things like that, no need to lol about it
Thanks for that link eage8! Exactly what i was looking for! Looks very straight forward, i really hope this will prevent the horrible binding and noise i had with the polyurethane, i also ordered the supernow front hubs and i am getting the drawings and part list from awr to do the speedway swaybar aswell i think.
Okey bumping this with some of my installation pics, installed the front pillow ***** today, super easy and they feel very solid and i can tell this is quality!
One big advantage with pillowballs is that you can weld some 2mm steel to reinforce the front mount then drill additional holes and change the angle of the control arm (i was told...im still reading up on suspension geometry so i can be wrong). It worked on the supernow timeattack car thou so it should work for me :-)
One big advantage with pillowballs is that you can weld some 2mm steel to reinforce the front mount then drill additional holes and change the angle of the control arm (i was told...im still reading up on suspension geometry so i can be wrong). It worked on the supernow timeattack car thou so it should work for me :-)
that'll change both the caster and the anti-lift in the front suspension:
High speed steering will be easier and more consistent because of the increased caster andit keeps the car from lifting under acceleration, and diving under braking.
The car does not have much anti-squat because of the rear suspension design, so this can help.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 03-30-15 at 02:20 PM.
High speed steering will be easier and more consistent because of the increased caster andit keeps the car from lifting under acceleration, and diving under braking.
The car does not have much anti-squat because of the rear suspension design, so this can help.
it actually depends.
most people try to decrease the amount of anti-lift and anti-dive in the front (aka, make the suspension compress and extend more easily). This is the geometry's resistance to compressing and extending the damper. It's mostly controlled by the angle of front control arm relative to the ground (when viewed from the side)
Most of the time this is done on front or awd cars to keep the drive wheels on the ground at all times, but I don't see why it would be a bad thing for rwd.
most people try to decrease the amount of anti-lift and anti-dive in the front (aka, make the suspension compress and extend more easily). This is the geometry's resistance to compressing and extending the damper. It's mostly controlled by the angle of front control arm relative to the ground (when viewed from the side)
Most of the time this is done on front or awd cars to keep the drive wheels on the ground at all times, but I don't see why it would be a bad thing for rwd.
On a car with little to no anti squat in the back, and Mac strut up front like ours, I'd be adding it like in the picture, not pulling it out. But yes.. It all depends.
Moving the front mount bolt will have a greater effect on the roll center and/or camber depending on how it's moved. Caster will actually be changed to a greater extent by moving the rear pivot in/out in regards to the center of the car.
On a car with little to no anti squat in the back, and Mac strut up front like ours, I'd be adding it like in the picture, not pulling it out. But yes.. It all depends.
the picture (which is upside down) probably takes away anti-dive and anti-lift. I haven't measured the FC's pick-up points, but they're probably more or less level, which causes anti-geometry since the car is lifting and diving based on a point in the center of the car, and on it's spring (which isn't straight up and down)
I actually went as far a mapping it all out on my corolla and was very close to making a spacer to lower the rear pickup point, but then I realized it wasn't legal in the class I sometimes run it in .
The subaru kit lowers the rear pick up point, that modified hole would raise the front pick up. in the end they'd do the same thing which is taking away anti-geometry.
at the end of the day... the moral of the story is don't go randomly relocating suspension pickup points unless you know what you're doing and have actually done measurements and have a way to correct bump steer and roll center. both of which are way more important than anti-geometry and you'll probably mess up your bump steer in the process anyway.
I figured I'd provide a more recent post on these. They do require modification. You cut approximately 10mm off the front end of the arm. You also have to cut approximately 30mm off the rear of the arm (the nose pointing towards the rear of the car). Then you have to drill and tap a hole for the bolt.
Here are some photos. I also put together a video, hope this helps people out there.
03-22-15, 02:11 PM
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