well as you all may or may not know I finnaly got my car up and running just got new mufflers put on it, finally got my boost problems taken care of and today I was idling at a red light, the light turned green I accelerate and the car has no power, I was reving it to like 5 and 6k rpm and the turbo was spooling but absolutly no power. Then when I went to idle at the next red light the car wouldn't idle and died and would not turn back on. Is this sighns of an engine suddenly poping an apex seal??? I smelled something faint while idling, maybe oil or coolant don't know however when I took off there was absolutly no power. Anyways can anyone confirm thats what happend? Thanks. My damn bad luck, I swear. Why I keep ****** with rotarys is beyond me

 

Do a compression check, easiest thing to do. I thought I blew my rebuilt GXL motor the other day (had 530 miles on it), was running on 1 rotor and like ****, turned out to be fouled plugs on the first rotor, but the compression test was the first thing I did.

 

how would you do a poor man compression test? I know there is some sort of hearing test but is there a cheap gauge I could get? Thanks.

 

Easy, just remove both lower spark plugs from each rotor, remove the EGI fuses (or disconnect the battery, or leave the key in the off position, whichever, so that way it doesn't spark/try to start or something similar) Anyway, you can either have someone crank it over with the EGI fuses removed, and put your fingers infront of the holes and feel for even pulses of air, or you can get a 19mm socket and stick it on the front hub bolt (the main crank pulleys), and for each 1/2 turn, you should get one pulse out of a rotor (it'll alternate between back and front) If you're missing a seal, you'll notice one rotor doesn't pulese two times in a row, or possibly not at all. This will give you a rough idea if you've still got strong compression on all faces.

 

Sounds like you have a vac leak almost.

I blew off the BAC line one time- did this.

 

I'm going to go back in a sec and pick my car up. I will check everything and see whats up. I don't know if I would trust my judgment with the hole feeling for even pulses thing but I will try. Can I use a normal compression tester??? Thanks guys for the replies.

 

That's possible as well, vac leaks are a bitch+2. Compression test is the easiet thing to get out of the way, and the most rewarding if it turns out ok since you know it's something kind of easy then!

 

Yes you can use a normal compression tester, it's a bit harder since you'd have to have the engine cranking, and it's harder to get an idea if it's missing a pulse. But by feel, you'll DEFINATLY tell when it has a good pulse. You'll hear a loud 'whoosh' and you can feel the air being expelled, so don't be too afraid to try. Occasionally you'll turn a bit too far, and the next pulse won't be as strong, so be sure to give each face more than one go, generally I'll spin the pulley around 12 times completely (this is 4 rotations of the rotors) to get a good idea, if there's always a miss in the same spot, then i know it's gone.

 

is it cranking at all? if not it might be the alternator or battery. I had the same symptoms when my alternator went out on me.

 

Well all the lights come on and all the gauges and the safc. It cranks but doesn't turn over. Everything has been working fine up until this point. Now did you say that I can use a regular compression tester if my car is cranking? It does crank but like I say won't turn over. Thanks.

 

so your saying the starter turns, but the engine dosent turn over?

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...lder/comp.html

 

thanks kevin, one day I will bring you my car and say "here, fix it!" but your are just a little to far away for now (damnit) Anyways I just went back to pick my car up and found that this time the car started however still no power! I have an custom front mount intercooler that has two lines going to it and one of them a. silicon hose gets blown off because of the boost (has clamps but breaks right before clamp, happend twice) or b. put a fuel hose raited at 50psi however the hood bends it and kinks it also has wear right before the clamp as well. What is that hose going to ??? Do I need it??? obviosly I do because my car acts weard when blown off or clogged. IS there any way to bypass this??? Thanks!

ps. it's the black hose. Thanks.

 

That is some ghetto rigging there man. Anyway, that hose is going to the AWS valve (accelerated warmup solenoid), the round thing. THis is the thing that makes the car rev to 3000 rpm when cold, to heat the stock precat. Most people remove this..cap both ends and don't worry about it.

 

Hey, I was wanting to know if someone could help me. When I let off the gas and push it back down I get no response, it jerks and backfires alot. I changed the sparkplugs and wires. I put a new air flow selnoid on it. please help me

 

Hey pimped- I would suggest you go into the main section of the 2nd gen forum (the one this thread is in) and make your own thread!
With a good title, like hesitation and backfiring.
Then post this, what type of car, and year, miles, everything like that.

Welcome to the forums btw.

 

so I can cap both ends? I'm going to do that then. Yeah this was deffinatley a rigged system before I got it just don't have the money right now to change to a good fmic setup.

 

hey what do you guys cap things with? DO they have caps at autozone etc... Just wondering.

 

vacuum caps. Use hose clamps with them if subject to high boost.

 

thanks man! I just capped everything off and took that cold start device off and for some reason it works again! Strange. I kept blowing this connection before and all it would do was lose boost but it wouldn't die and create no power? Anyways I went to autozone and got some caps and some hose clamps and its got power again??? Thanks kevin. I wish you lived closer, you would be my best friend

 

ok here we go again. I get in my car today and everything works great! Good boost, Good power, yeah!!! Now I go to get in it and there is no power. Turbo is spooling the revs are high however no freakin power. This is wierd!!! anyone ever had this problem before? oh yeah this is the wierd thing up until yesterday this was a kinda common thing only sometimes when I would start the car, I thought may have to do with the safc settings however if I let it sit till like the next day it would work again however this happend to me yesterday while driving for the first time! This wouldn't be either the coils going bad causing all of a sudden no spark could it??? If that is the case it would kind of explain why it led me to flooding yesterday while I was on the road, wouldn't it?

 

and here we go again, now I get back in it and it has power???? Strange ****!

 

check that all throttle plates move. i had a similar problem when the two lower plates were not opening because of some cold start garbage. only one of the 3 ports was opening.

 

I tried but I think the secondary throttle plates are gone!!! I'll look for that tomorrow.