Where the rad cap goes.

 

you sure it says 8psi and not .8bar? a bar is something like 14 and change psi. i forget the conversion, might be 14.7. google will have that answer

 

I was just using 8 psi as an example. They're actually .9 bar on my car.

 

For clarification, will the S5 tstat neck fit on an S4 wp/tstat housing?

 

for pete's sake, pressure test the cap. pressure test the cooling system. those are always the first things checked in diagnosing an overheating symptom.
make sure the cap vents at 13psi, and holds pressure there. pressurize the cooling system to 14 or 15 psi. if it's leaking, pressure will drop within the first minute or two. it doesn't need to be left on for hours lol.

 

you can purchase a mity vac pressure test kit for dirt cheap. with these cars, and how detrimental the cooling system is on them, every owner should have one

 

No.

 

I ordered a new water filler cap from Mazda.

 

why? you haven't confirmed that it's the problem. the money you spent on that cap could have went towards a tester. and you STILL won't know if that new cap is bad. which, btw, is an extremely common occurance

 

here ya go. this kit has everything you'd need to pressure test 90% of the systems on the road for under 50$

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MityVac-Cooling-System-Radiator-Pressure-Test-Kit-MV4560-/351107918226?hash=item51bfa9a992&item=351107918226&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

 

Im plus 1 for clutch fan. I had overheating issues for over two years scratching my head trying to figure out what was going on, and it would do just about exactly what you described, and it was intermittent too which really had me boggled. I said screw it today, went out to my old fc that was written off a few years ago, changed out the clutch fan, and wow, the difference. Normal operating temp for me before was 1/2 up the gauge, and now, it hasn't budged past 1/3, and I beat on it too. Those clutch fans do move air really well, when they work correctly.

 

I figured I should fix that seeing as its not supposed to have 2 pressure caps, and I'm going to rent a pressure tester from AutoZone where you just put a deposit down. Then I get it back when I return the unit.

 

two pressure caps wont hurt as opposed to one flat cap and one pressure cap. when the one thats not supposed to be a pressure cap actually moves DUE to pressure, wheres the coolant going to go?

 

Make sure the efan blows in the right direction.
Saw it happen before...

 

Yeah. It does.

 

that efan needs to go regardless of blowing the right way or not

 

It is. I'm going back to mechanical.

 

2 pressure caps of the same rating (.9 bar) is OK...as long as those caps are attached to something that will lead the overflow to the jug.

Native: the WP/housings and thermo-neck are different with S4 having 2 bolts neck and S5 having 3..so NO it won't work.
You can use a flat cap on a setup that has NO overflow at the Thermo-neck but you need the rad to go to the Overflow jug.(also o f course that the thermo-neck has a Cap attachment that has NO Nipple...SEE Mazdatrix)

 

Okay thanks. The only cap that's attached to an overflow is the radiator cap. Also, would you, or anyone, know if the na mechanical fan fits on a tii motor? I tried to match the metal piece up and the holes looked like they didn't really align right.

 

I have all the factory tii parts. I'm just not sure what you mean by metal piece? I need pics I guess lol

 

Haha yeah. I'm just at work right now. Its the metal piece that bolts to the WP pulley and then the fan clutch bolts onto it. I can post a pic when I'm off work.

 

So i'm gonna update Aric's thread for him. Said he put the mechanical fan back on and drove it around for a little bit and it never crossed 192. He says he's going to take it to work in the am and see how she runs.

 

Barkz, I need a new fan assembly. You have one I can buy?

 

ive got fan, clutch, shroud, other **** im sure. PM what you need

 

He needs a nice S5 water pump too, and a dual sheave alt pulley.