Stumped on overheating problem
07-05-14, 09:21 PM
#26
Duley, i feel like the w/p bearing would go out before a stat gear/rotor bearing went but that can easily lead to a big problem no less. When I went to the Banzai pulley setup I had to cut and peel the belt off the two pulleys. I am glad I nixxed that idea.
As prev stated Aric, it will work but hell I even smoked two of the little belts before I got to the last one before the dual pulley.
As prev stated Aric, it will work but hell I even smoked two of the little belts before I got to the last one before the dual pulley.
07-07-14, 12:20 AM
#27
New Turbo time!
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If it's only overheating when you drive there is a chance it could be an airflow problem, do you have anything obstructing the flow to the Radiator ie license plate or FMIC?
I had similar issues and had a Koyo rad and new engine, but coolant seals are also a possibility as the guys have mentioned.
I had similar issues and had a Koyo rad and new engine, but coolant seals are also a possibility as the guys have mentioned.
07-07-14, 08:50 AM
#29
Aric does have a Godspeed FMIC and it is unforunately poorly ducted. That is one thing I was telling him when we hung out this weekend. He almost drove his 7 from west FL to Tallahassee and didn't becaise it got hot when he drove. I do work at an AZ and those fans only pull so much. Plis he has it hard wired in. I told him he needs a Villager/Quest fan and shroud and a thermoswitch from a Volvo if he wants to stay efan. But I told him it definitely needs to be shrouded better and with better ducting elsewhere. I am in the process of finding him a real belly pan too.
If he goes to a betyer efan he will need an improved alt too since his is an S4.
If he goes to a betyer efan he will need an improved alt too since his is an S4.
07-07-14, 11:29 AM
#32
I'm betting the e-fan is a generic Autozone e-fan and as mentioned above is too small for the surface of the radiator and is ALSO pulling too little cfm... You need a lot of airflow from the fan for this car, and if you don't have a shroud you need one.
Get a junkyard fan, there's a thread about the end-all be-all efans off of other cars on here... I think it was a Villager e-fan? I've had success with a Vovlo e-fan and a Fiero e-fan as well...
Get a junkyard fan, there's a thread about the end-all be-all efans off of other cars on here... I think it was a Villager e-fan? I've had success with a Vovlo e-fan and a Fiero e-fan as well...
07-08-14, 09:25 PM
#41
talking head
now you have the yahoo belt , you can go back to a clutched fan if you need to
before you do that.. recheck the basics
check the efan you have rotates in right direction for the fan orientation
a fan turning backwards seriously underates its output
( ie.. it is not good enough to just reverse the current to reverse the fan direction. the fan blade itself needs to be flipped over to push the rated cfm )
use the correct thermostat for the engine .. up to 88 can use a 12a/ early type thermostat if required
post 88 must use the FD thermostat ( include any FC that has the three bolt thermostat neck )
AND must use the rubber ring that fits around the edge of the thermostat
finally.. and this is common for 86 NA vehicles .. is to get the overflow and the correct cap on the correct locations
over the FC life there is three revisions of radiator complicated by permutations made in variations of the overflow position and bottle
early 86 NA radiator originally had no cap .. was filled from the top of the thermo neck ( from a "dumb" cap with a blanked over overflow )
the overflow was from top of the rad.. to a bottle in front of the rad .. which held the true pressure cap
the turbo ( 87 in most markets ) instead had overflow from the filler cap position ( and that is where the smart cap went ) and had a bottle on the inside fender ( with a dumb cap )
in 88 , the rad changes and gets a fill point ( with a smart cap and overflow )
in 89.. the system changes again to the s5 radiator ( with elongated fill point ) though the system is pretty much the same as the previous 88
when you fit the aftermarket radiator , you need to emulate this later system .. and be sure you have not doubled up on smart or dumb caps or overflow points
your smart cap ( with the spring and seal inside and with a pressure rating on the cap ) needs to go to your overflow point
your dumb cap ,, needs to go to the top of the thermoneck ( s4 ) and the plastic base overflow part needs to be swapped for the blind equivalent
this will ensure your system runs to its rated pressure ( and cooling capacity )
PS.. and i know that you have changed out the water pump.. but for others benefit..
a drip from the pulleys or down the timing cover is the "tell tale " telling you the water pump is done and the system will not hold pressure
when changing the pump it is important to inspect the housing assembly for corrosion holes back through to the pump suction that make a kickback for the water flow
a common enough issue in some housings
( the factory started to put a steel insert in opposite the blades to combat this , though these housings may corrode in the alum adjacent )
.. also check the waxcam water supply on top of rear plate and back of water pump isnt weeping from corroded fitting and not holding pressure
lastly .. get a $20 infrared thermometer to check the radiator for hot / cold spots showing a bypass inside
before you do that.. recheck the basics
check the efan you have rotates in right direction for the fan orientation
a fan turning backwards seriously underates its output
( ie.. it is not good enough to just reverse the current to reverse the fan direction. the fan blade itself needs to be flipped over to push the rated cfm )
use the correct thermostat for the engine .. up to 88 can use a 12a/ early type thermostat if required
post 88 must use the FD thermostat ( include any FC that has the three bolt thermostat neck )
AND must use the rubber ring that fits around the edge of the thermostat
finally.. and this is common for 86 NA vehicles .. is to get the overflow and the correct cap on the correct locations
over the FC life there is three revisions of radiator complicated by permutations made in variations of the overflow position and bottle
early 86 NA radiator originally had no cap .. was filled from the top of the thermo neck ( from a "dumb" cap with a blanked over overflow )
the overflow was from top of the rad.. to a bottle in front of the rad .. which held the true pressure cap
the turbo ( 87 in most markets ) instead had overflow from the filler cap position ( and that is where the smart cap went ) and had a bottle on the inside fender ( with a dumb cap )
in 88 , the rad changes and gets a fill point ( with a smart cap and overflow )
in 89.. the system changes again to the s5 radiator ( with elongated fill point ) though the system is pretty much the same as the previous 88
when you fit the aftermarket radiator , you need to emulate this later system .. and be sure you have not doubled up on smart or dumb caps or overflow points
your smart cap ( with the spring and seal inside and with a pressure rating on the cap ) needs to go to your overflow point
your dumb cap ,, needs to go to the top of the thermoneck ( s4 ) and the plastic base overflow part needs to be swapped for the blind equivalent
this will ensure your system runs to its rated pressure ( and cooling capacity )
PS.. and i know that you have changed out the water pump.. but for others benefit..
a drip from the pulleys or down the timing cover is the "tell tale " telling you the water pump is done and the system will not hold pressure
when changing the pump it is important to inspect the housing assembly for corrosion holes back through to the pump suction that make a kickback for the water flow
a common enough issue in some housings
( the factory started to put a steel insert in opposite the blades to combat this , though these housings may corrode in the alum adjacent )
.. also check the waxcam water supply on top of rear plate and back of water pump isnt weeping from corroded fitting and not holding pressure
lastly .. get a $20 infrared thermometer to check the radiator for hot / cold spots showing a bypass inside
Last edited by bumpstart; 07-08-14 at 09:34 PM. Reason: PS
07-08-14, 10:29 PM
#42
I have an aftermarket radiator that has the place for the cap and overflow piece as well as the place for a cap on the neck. Both are "smart" caps though.. Should I get a dumb cap for the neck? Could that really cause my problem?
I'm also missing my water temp switch at the bottom of my radiator. Would that even remotely cause am overheating problem??
I'm also missing my water temp switch at the bottom of my radiator. Would that even remotely cause am overheating problem??
07-08-14, 11:02 PM
#43
I have an aftermarket radiator that has the place for the cap and overflow piece as well as the place for a cap on the neck. Both are "smart" caps though.. Should I get a dumb cap for the neck? Could that really cause my problem?
I'm also missing my water temp switch at the bottom of my radiator. Would that even remotely cause am overheating problem??
I'm also missing my water temp switch at the bottom of my radiator. Would that even remotely cause am overheating problem??
OEM caps, OEM thermostat, thats what id do.
07-08-14, 11:15 PM
#44
talking head
I have an aftermarket radiator that has the place for the cap and overflow piece as well as the place for a cap on the neck. Both are "smart" caps though.. Should I get a dumb cap for the neck? Could that really cause my problem?
I'm also missing my water temp switch at the bottom of my radiator. Would that even remotely cause am overheating problem??
I'm also missing my water temp switch at the bottom of my radiator. Would that even remotely cause am overheating problem??
or in fact made to a slightly lesser rating than the other one
then it may vent here and it will not be recovered ( or noticed )
the blind nipple version of the cap seat will make it certain there is no-where to go
you will still have to fill it from this thermoneck spot and leave other cap on the radiator off to burp the system correctly and may have underfilled the system if using only the radiator cap
07-09-14, 08:03 AM
#45
if the cap is faulty.
or in fact made to a slightly lesser rating than the other one
then it may vent here and it will not be recovered ( or noticed )
the blind nipple version of the cap seat will make it certain there is no-where to go
you will still have to fill it from this thermoneck spot and leave other cap on the radiator off to burp the system correctly and may have underfilled the system if using only the radiator cap
or in fact made to a slightly lesser rating than the other one
then it may vent here and it will not be recovered ( or noticed )
the blind nipple version of the cap seat will make it certain there is no-where to go
you will still have to fill it from this thermoneck spot and leave other cap on the radiator off to burp the system correctly and may have underfilled the system if using only the radiator cap
And barkz, they're both OEM. Its a 2 day old OEM t-stat as well.
07-09-14, 09:12 AM
#48
talking head
"smart" cap is merely the term associated with the type "A" pressure cap to differentiate it from the "dumb" type B filler only cap
one is sprung with a seal on the plug and around the cap and intended for a pressure recovery system
the other is unsprung with a seal only around the cap and is intended as a fill point
the sprung caps come as 0.9,, 1.1 and 1.3 bar pressure ratings
the default for the FC is 0.9// but i expect the aftermarket radiator came with a 1.1 bar cap
at any rate .. one part is rarely exactly on spec and i expect in a batch of 0.9's.. then some start to open before others
if the system has two caps , the one with least rating will open first while the other will stay shut unless the pressure continues to progress higher than its seating pressure
it is fine to run at 1.1 bar , and gives more margin to a cooling system .. the 1.3 bar however should be used with caution if you are unsure of the condition of your coolant groove walls
( the FD rx7 was reduced from its original pressure rating of 1.3 to 0.9 bar after some concern for this , and is the primary reason the cooling system is marginal in temperate climates )
filling procedure should be from the top of the thermoneck on s4's with burp screw ( or rad cap ) open
one is sprung with a seal on the plug and around the cap and intended for a pressure recovery system
the other is unsprung with a seal only around the cap and is intended as a fill point
the sprung caps come as 0.9,, 1.1 and 1.3 bar pressure ratings
the default for the FC is 0.9// but i expect the aftermarket radiator came with a 1.1 bar cap
at any rate .. one part is rarely exactly on spec and i expect in a batch of 0.9's.. then some start to open before others
if the system has two caps , the one with least rating will open first while the other will stay shut unless the pressure continues to progress higher than its seating pressure
it is fine to run at 1.1 bar , and gives more margin to a cooling system .. the 1.3 bar however should be used with caution if you are unsure of the condition of your coolant groove walls
( the FD rx7 was reduced from its original pressure rating of 1.3 to 0.9 bar after some concern for this , and is the primary reason the cooling system is marginal in temperate climates )
filling procedure should be from the top of the thermoneck on s4's with burp screw ( or rad cap ) open
07-09-14, 09:33 AM
#49
And I'm going to get a dumb cap today after work to see if that'll help.