anav711

Hello, so far no luck with the following question.
>
> While driving I turned and car started acting like
> it was not getting fuel. Went about 1 mile and then
> it died. Waited 20 min and it started up but died
> after 1 mile. Waited 2 days and then drove 6 miles
> and it died and will not turn over. Going on two
> weeks and the following has been checked.
> : Fuel filter, Fuel pump, fuel pressure, Control
> colum wiring harness, Fuse boxes BOTH. Main Relay
> good.
> Verified Theft Det. system is BAD through trouble
> shooting procedure and with help from Vehicle /
> Nuclear/ Electrician (friend from Navy). Unplugged
> the theft control unit. Car turns over will not
> crank.
> Also verified Coil has 12V out. Spark is making it
> to the engine.

Question: If theft Det. control unit is taken out of
> circuit can it effect the electrical control unit?
> Our thought is it could be telling the control unit
> not to fire? Scratching our heads.[/[/COLOR]FONT] Might have to
> bite it and go to Mazda. No Mazda techs. outside of
> dealer in this area
>
> Chrisg

Rx7Ridah

iTrader: (8)

i dont believe it will affect starting and running condition, but if you have a factory service manual check through the wiring diagrams and verify if it intercepts the signals. sorry it has been some years since i last had a 7 with the factory security system, but i know i set it off a few times by accident and it wouldnt let me start until i unlocked the door with the key. you have verified that the fuel pump, fuel filter and ignition system are all in normal operating condition correct? you may have flooded it have you tried the unflood method? is the battery voltage where it should be? i had problems with a weak alternator that would make my car cut in and out while driving sometimes. try getting new spark plugs all the way around, pull the plugs and fuse for the pump, disconnect your crank angle sensor and have you or a friend crank the car the with gas pedal all the way to the floor with no plugs in it. you may want to leave the trailing plugs in it while you do this just to get a very rough indication of engine compression using your fingers to gauge both the intensity and consistancy of the compression pulses coming out of the leading plug holes. anyway after cranking it until there are no longer any gasoline clouds coming out the plug holes. replace plugs, fuse for pump and plug cas back in and give it a whirl.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

hmm.....almost sounds like the ECU is throwing it into limp - except its shutting it RIGHT off.....

have you checked for fuel and spark?

Icemark

Factory security has nothing to do with anything in the ECU or the engine running. It only disables the starter circuit when the factory security system is triggered (going off/making noise/etc).

If you can crank the starter, the starter kill is not engaged. With the factory starter kill engaged, the starter will not even make a noise.

Are you sure he knows what the factory security system is??? It has been my experience that Nuclear navy techs (much like Mazda dealer Techs) know absolutely nothing about automotive electrical applications and the fact that the guy thinks that that the car not running is related to the factory security points that your guy is no different.

anav711

Thanks for the response all.

Verified fuel system, power into coils, no spark coming out of coils, nor obviously at plugs.

Leaning towards ECU, just trying to verify as much as possible prior to replacing it.

Good call Ice but you go with the help you can get even Nuclear trained.

First restore for me so learning curve is steep. But alot of fun.