Stuff to add to oil, etc
10-03-16, 09:58 AM
#1
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Stuff to add to oil, etc
Looking through the posts I find general info on oils (synth vs non synth, etc) but not much on usable (read: effective) additives that might help the fc and all of its moving parts.
Just a primer:
My first car ever was a 79 5 speed, at 79,000 km on the clock.
Being young, having a job that payed upwards of $7 per hour and a car meant I had to spend wisely. I would use Moly-slip in the crank case regularly (as regularly as the $5.95 cost would allow me) and drove that car for 480,000 km. yep, 480,000 km although the common thought was that every rotary would need a rebuild by 120,000 miles at most. Rust killer her at the rear jack points.
My second was an 81 that had a slightly harder life and by that point I had started to use other products, like Slick 50 (when it was only required every 50,000 km or so).
I drove that one to 280,000 km and gave her up after she started to hard-start during those cold Ontario winter evenings (always when i was on the midnight shift of course) and body rot got to her bum side. For all I know, it might have been a cold-start circuit issue but i did not know at the time and figured the engine was spent.
My 3rd rx was an 84 that took me to 230,000 before rust killed her as well.
Damn rust.
I am looking at a few additives for my fc (actually, my sons) and wanted to get some USER opinions on products.
The new generation of Slick 50 and similar products want to be added EVERY oil change and at $19 per bottle, seems silly.
Moly slip is up to $14 per can.
I am reading up on XADO as it seems interesting but having worked in television and media for decades, I know how easy it is to represent the good and gloss over any negatives so I don;t go by the manufacturer claims unless I can verify somewhere else.
Have any of you USED a product in the crank case that yielded good results, or in any other area (tran, diff.)?
I don't expect miracles but as we know:
Heat causes expansion and friction caused wear so a product that minimizes friction must have benefits.
Good oil is the first defense but even those are limited in what they can do.
Any input would be appreciated but please, don't just add in your "they are probably all snake oil" comment unless you have actually tried them all...
and let's keep this focused on additives.
Thanks
Just a primer:
My first car ever was a 79 5 speed, at 79,000 km on the clock.
Being young, having a job that payed upwards of $7 per hour and a car meant I had to spend wisely. I would use Moly-slip in the crank case regularly (as regularly as the $5.95 cost would allow me) and drove that car for 480,000 km. yep, 480,000 km although the common thought was that every rotary would need a rebuild by 120,000 miles at most. Rust killer her at the rear jack points.
My second was an 81 that had a slightly harder life and by that point I had started to use other products, like Slick 50 (when it was only required every 50,000 km or so).
I drove that one to 280,000 km and gave her up after she started to hard-start during those cold Ontario winter evenings (always when i was on the midnight shift of course) and body rot got to her bum side. For all I know, it might have been a cold-start circuit issue but i did not know at the time and figured the engine was spent.
My 3rd rx was an 84 that took me to 230,000 before rust killed her as well.
Damn rust.
I am looking at a few additives for my fc (actually, my sons) and wanted to get some USER opinions on products.
The new generation of Slick 50 and similar products want to be added EVERY oil change and at $19 per bottle, seems silly.
Moly slip is up to $14 per can.
I am reading up on XADO as it seems interesting but having worked in television and media for decades, I know how easy it is to represent the good and gloss over any negatives so I don;t go by the manufacturer claims unless I can verify somewhere else.
Have any of you USED a product in the crank case that yielded good results, or in any other area (tran, diff.)?
I don't expect miracles but as we know:
Heat causes expansion and friction caused wear so a product that minimizes friction must have benefits.
Good oil is the first defense but even those are limited in what they can do.
Any input would be appreciated but please, don't just add in your "they are probably all snake oil" comment unless you have actually tried them all...
and let's keep this focused on additives.
Thanks
Last edited by beeton; 10-03-16 at 10:00 AM. Reason: typo
10-03-16, 02:57 PM
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I always hear about premix. Does that require the full removal of the OMP? Cause I really like having an automatic oiling solution as a failsafe
10-04-16, 11:46 PM
#7
Good oil doesn't need additives. I think the real secret is to change oil and filter regularly. A bit of light premix on top of the omp doesnt hurt but isnt really necessary unless you are beating the absolute **** out of it.
If you really wanted to add something to the oil, a squirt of Lucas heavy duty oil stabiliser or similar to thicken up a slightly fuel diluted oil to get you to the next oil change.
If you really wanted to add something to the oil, a squirt of Lucas heavy duty oil stabiliser or similar to thicken up a slightly fuel diluted oil to get you to the next oil change.
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10-05-16, 07:15 AM
#8
I usually do my own oil every 4-5km but it's getting cold over here so I thought why not bring it to the dealer. Called and they said since they have never seen my car before they will have to do a FULL inspection which she said was 30 bucks on top of the 50$ oil change. I'm like are you out of your mind. Just change the damn oil.
But to awnser OP I rarely add anything to the oil and all my Verts have lasted quite well.
But to awnser OP I rarely add anything to the oil and all my Verts have lasted quite well.
10-05-16, 08:00 AM
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I usually do my own oil every 4-5km but it's getting cold over here so I thought why not bring it to the dealer. Called and they said since they have never seen my car before they will have to do a FULL inspection which she said was 30 bucks on top of the 50$ oil change. I'm like are you out of your mind. Just change the damn oil.
But to awnser OP I rarely add anything to the oil and all my Verts have lasted quite well.
But to awnser OP I rarely add anything to the oil and all my Verts have lasted quite well.
Surely you can't expect a shop to perform an adequate oil change without first making sure your wipers are good? The results could be disastrous!
10-09-16, 10:26 AM
#11
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You don't need to add anything to the oil. Just use a decent oil and change it per the recommendations in the owns manual/FSM.
If your metering oil pump is working fine, there is no reason to premix, assuming the car isn't a 500HP monster.
Regular oil changes go a long way to not clog up the metering oil pump lines and nozzles. Best just make sure they are working on any FC purchase. I'd replace the lines to be sure. They are cheap at the dealer or make your own.
On that old premix chestnut, I have been gathering data and evidence over my premix use over the last 10 years (in the same car, same engine, same setup) that when I turn into an article, is going to blow some freaking minds.
If your metering oil pump is working fine, there is no reason to premix, assuming the car isn't a 500HP monster.
Regular oil changes go a long way to not clog up the metering oil pump lines and nozzles. Best just make sure they are working on any FC purchase. I'd replace the lines to be sure. They are cheap at the dealer or make your own.
On that old premix chestnut, I have been gathering data and evidence over my premix use over the last 10 years (in the same car, same engine, same setup) that when I turn into an article, is going to blow some freaking minds.
10-09-16, 01:19 PM
#12
I haven't Aaron's (or many others) experience with multiple engines, but I do know that when my nearly 300k miles engine was torn down, it was essentially immaculate.
During my stewardship, she got nothing but Castrol GTX (usually 10w/30), Mazda or Wix filters and nothing else.
I had been skeptical of the OMP system because of what I consider halfassed implementation, but cannot argue with the results...it seems to work quite well.
During my stewardship, she got nothing but Castrol GTX (usually 10w/30), Mazda or Wix filters and nothing else.
I had been skeptical of the OMP system because of what I consider halfassed implementation, but cannot argue with the results...it seems to work quite well.
10-11-16, 05:48 PM
#13
I'm running RotaryAviation Seals in my latest engine, and they're harder than Atkins or Stock, so I run about half and ounce of TCW-3 Two Stoke oil, or Idemitsu Rotary Premix per gallon of gas. I could probably just run the OMP, but this, if anything, gives me a little piece of mind.
10-11-16, 10:30 PM
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I tend to go with the crowd on this one and recommend simply using a good motor oil like Castrol GTX with the viscosity recommended for the weather in your area as per the factory service manual.
I'm in the aviation industry, and Microlon is the only oil additive that seems to actually do anything worthwhile. Actually, it isn't an additive, but rather a one-time engine treatment that uses the oil as a carrier. While it does seem to reduce friction, the effect is not significant.
Also, Motor Honey will usually help a badly-worn rotary engine from smoking and burning a lot of oil, however it does nothing but increase wear on a good engine.
Honestly, the best way to care for your engine is to use distilled water mixed with coolant. You would be amazed what a difference this makes vs. tap water.
I'm in the aviation industry, and Microlon is the only oil additive that seems to actually do anything worthwhile. Actually, it isn't an additive, but rather a one-time engine treatment that uses the oil as a carrier. While it does seem to reduce friction, the effect is not significant.
Also, Motor Honey will usually help a badly-worn rotary engine from smoking and burning a lot of oil, however it does nothing but increase wear on a good engine.
Honestly, the best way to care for your engine is to use distilled water mixed with coolant. You would be amazed what a difference this makes vs. tap water.
10-12-16, 06:52 AM
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I tend to go with the crowd on this one and recommend simply using a good motor oil like Castrol GTX with the viscosity recommended for the weather in your area as per the factory service manual.
I'm in the aviation industry, and Microlon is the only oil additive that seems to actually do anything worthwhile. Actually, it isn't an additive, but rather a one-time engine treatment that uses the oil as a carrier. While it does seem to reduce friction, the effect is not significant.
Also, Motor Honey will usually help a badly-worn rotary engine from smoking and burning a lot of oil, however it does nothing but increase wear on a good engine.
Honestly, the best way to care for your engine is to use distilled water mixed with coolant. You would be amazed what a difference this makes vs. tap water.
I'm in the aviation industry, and Microlon is the only oil additive that seems to actually do anything worthwhile. Actually, it isn't an additive, but rather a one-time engine treatment that uses the oil as a carrier. While it does seem to reduce friction, the effect is not significant.
Also, Motor Honey will usually help a badly-worn rotary engine from smoking and burning a lot of oil, however it does nothing but increase wear on a good engine.
Honestly, the best way to care for your engine is to use distilled water mixed with coolant. You would be amazed what a difference this makes vs. tap water.
11-03-16, 02:19 AM
#17
Vintage sportcars
As for the oil, I just went with Castrol GTX no additives. Mazdatrix says the GTX burns very clean and I think that is important in a rotary.
11-11-16, 08:49 PM
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