experienced low idle and stalling when cold for 2 weeks or more. last night idle was jumping idle to stay alive from 11k-15k all of the sudden operating temp.

turbo was working fine. but doesn't always sound the same spooling up.
that was the last time I heard anything from the turbo.

Turbo timer always set to 30 sec or more. i drive slower that grandma until i know she's warmed up

Rotella 15/40 with two quarts of lucas this time because of previous fuel in the oil.
oil presure is a bit above 60 while driving and just below 30 at idle.

At idle vac stays at 11 I Dont know if this is ok. On decel it drops to 25
at WOT the boost gauge wont pass 5hg that is not ok.

I have sprayed for vac leaks
T/BMod
bac egr thermowax air injection all eliminated

If anyone can tell me how i might have killed my turbo please educate me because i am broke, i love my FC, and i only have one more turbo.

 

is it ball bearing or journal. only thing i can think of its just old? and if its ball bearing did you have a restrictor in the line?

 

I'm not sure. From what the previous owner says is that it is the Stock Jdm turbo that came with the motor. He was kind enough to give me the old one from the domestic motor as well.

how can i tell?

would they be the same? and i would think that it is a journal type because the one i have out of the car has some resistance when turning but i have spun the one that i am using now before and it was free with very minimal endplay.

Where can i get these Gaskets that i need on a Sunday? Is it ok to reuse any of them kuz they're freekin expensive.

I'm going to Jack in the crack anyways I just cant boost. I sure hope it doesn't rain on me tomorrow when i'm tearing into this. It sux I could go do it at the shop but i would end up working on some other crap for the boss i know it.

 

stock is journal.

were you allowing the turbo to cool down for 30 seconds to 1 minute after driving it?
how many miles were on it?
its not good to go into boost if you have a vacuum leak because the turbo has to work harder to get up to boost and if your car wasnt even getting into boost that may of killed it.
are your oil lines leaking??

you do have a bypass valve right or some sort of bov right?

 

always let it cool for more than 30 sec. I bought the car with 50k on the JDM motor but i dont know how old the turbo is. lines dont leak. but the oil cooler lines use to leak and it's covered in gunk. i forgot to clean that off. I dont have a vac leak at least not a noticable one using carb spay and the turbo worked fine one night, the next morning half way to work i noticed a little hesitation (i drive very slow for the first 6 minutes the car's running) so i gave it some throttle and heard no spooling at all. hasn't since then.

I have the Stock Denso BOV and it's working fine.

the oil I use is not to Thick?

 

idk ive heard people say turbos like a little thicker oil.

up to the turbo locking up did you hear any grinding or anything?

check the inducer side see if theres any oil on the blades or in your intake tract.

 

I found something in the cool side and i am guessing i bought the car with it in there. i have never removed the UID and only had the air filter off for a couple of seconds at a time. unless this object looks familiar to someone it looks like the previous owner was careless or had some enemy. the impeller is all chewed up but it spins fine and doesn't have any endplay. i'll swap out the turbo and get a new impeller.



it looks like the foot from a school chair but a little smaller.

 

can you take a pic of your turbo on the inlet side?

 

I bought the car in april and never looked in the intake side till it was too late.

http://www.imageuploads.net/ims/pic....9t0fE&i=190171

http://www.imageuploads.net/ims/pic....9t0fE&i=190172

http://www.imageuploads.net/ims/pic....9t0fE&i=190173

 

looks like the seals went. im guessing you never checked for shaft play?
im gonna say it was cause it was old.
i dont understand what you mean when you say you had previous fuel in the oil?

first id get the oil lines checked out make sure theyre not clogged or anything and fix your idle problem.

i wish someone else would chime in lol

 

Never checked the shaft for end play until i pulled that thing out. What is that thing?
The shaft has no play whatsoever and spins freely.

the fuel was in the oil for two reasons. Before the TBmod my TB was only allowing air to move through one bore sometimes. (most likely was cause was a kinked coolant line under the manifold. I modded the TB and fixed the hose anyways.) Other reason is I am retarded. I had leaky oil cooler lines that gradually got really bad to the point that i would add oil every day for a few days.
I put about 5k without actually changing the oil and during that time the car was running really rich because of the TB issue.
It's normal for the fuel to mix up with the oil via the oil control rings and this is why we need to change the oil every 25-3k on the turbo cars.

there are no oil line Issues

I think the idle is coming from vacuum caps that i used i need better ones because i don't know how to weld.

it's great that you are responding so quick by the way thanks. If Anyone knows what that thing is Please tell me you're thoughts.

 

as for the two things u pulled out they look like the thing that goes on the turbine wheel. idk if im describing it right lol.

 

that is something foreign and not from the turbo, someone was probably careless and left something in the filter box or inside the TID when it was reinstalled after some work. there is nothing in the hitachi HT18S that resembles that piece.

replace the turbo and simply make sure there is nothing laying in the intake tract. you may also want to flush out your intercooler with compressed air and gasoline to get the small bits of metal out before they make their way to the motor, although they probably won't cause much damage if any at all it's still better to be safe.

 

done and done. thanks I was positive that it doesn't belong to the car. I'm lucky i had an extra turbo.
if i swap the impeller this turbo should still be ok right? it has no noticeable end play but the one I'm using as a little.
WHEN YOU BUY A CAR CHECK FOR THINGS LIKE THIS.
every once in a while it sounded funny spooling but i thought it was a rattle in the exhaust.

 

it should be ok if you swap the compressor wheel but the compressor housing may be fubar from all those bits of metal flying at it at high speed.

 

and that would be visible with the wheel removed?