FGFan

I just purchased a 87 T2 Rx7 with 100K. Well this car has been sitting for about 5 months. I put a new battery in the car, and she started right up, no problems. Changed all the fluidis, plugs wires, new tires, sense the old ones were dry rotted, and I have an exhaust on order.

Well, yesterday I am actually taking her out for the first test run, and the throttle started sticking. And then I put it in neutral and it reved like crazy, I turned it off real quick. It seems like that the throttle is stuck at 100%.

The only thing I have checked was the throttle cable and it does not seem to be sticking at all. Should I take out the throttle body and clean it? Any recomendations would be helpful!

Cosmo_TT

iTrader: (11)

same thing happened to mine a few months ago and i replaced the throttle cable and it was all fixed for only $36 i would give it a shot

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

This has happened to me on my old 12A 1st gen. Carb liked to freeze in the winter...

Anyway, check the throttle cable. It may only bind under certain angles. Disconnect the cable from the throttle body and see if the throttle plates themselves move freely. It's possible there's dirt somewhere or a sticking linkage, or someone tried to lubricate them in the past (they are designed to run dry and lubricant will attract dirt). In either case, soak the area down with brake cleaner and then retest.

FGFan

How hard is it to take out the throttle body? Is it a simple process?

Sorry for the newb question.

SwiftTone

you need to take the TMIC(intercooler) off, then the support bracket some off. The support bracket is sometimes hard to get off. I had trouble the first time cause I had to figure out hot to get to one of the nuts in the back. After the support bracket you can take the throttle body off. Probably take you about an hour to get it off the first time

FGFan

I see you are a Ayumi Hamasaki fan .

Anyways, I was able to get the TMIC off with ease, that was no problem. But I cannot seem to get the TB, off or find this 'support bracket" any pictures, or anything to help? Again sorry for the newbie question.

SwiftTone

The support bracket is under the TMIC on the right side(driver). And the TB sits on the left side of it. You need to get the bracket off so you can get to the bottom right bolt of the TB. You can probably get to that bottom right bolt if you have swivel joints.

adrock3217

Check to make sure the carpet isn't catching the pedal?

Or, do you have APC (or other non-FC specific made pedals)? Many fit incorrectly, causing the throttle to stick on the pad next to the gas pedal. Adjust/remove accordingly

FGFan

Yeah the carpet is not catchin on the pedal! I wish i was tho lol.

Now as for removing the throttle body, I must be an idiot. Cause everybody on here makes it seem so simple. I cannot find this support bracket, are you referring to the bracket that support the TMIC? I think i might just take a picture and you show me.

FGFan

Here is the picture, what exactly am I doing wrong?

SwiftTone

You see the throttle position sensor harness? Its the bracket thing that the TPS harness is hooked on.

FGFan

The TPS hardness is the two plugs that are plugged in that are white? So follow those plugs to a bracket thing, and take it off, then I will be able to get to the throttle body?

SwiftTone

The bracket is in the yellow square. I think your complicating things.

FGFan

Indeed, I am making things more difficult then they seem. I apologize, thank you for the help. I will not go attempt to take the throttle body off!

FGFan

Okay! I was able to get every single bolt un scewed that was keeping this bracket in, but now the bracket wont come off!

Maybe I should stick to working on computers, any other suggestions?

SwiftTone

Theres probably a bolt/nut hidden behind something, i had a hard time too

FGFan

Do you know off the top of your head how many bolts/nuts that are attached to the bracket? I seem to have gotten them all. But its just stuck in there.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Grab a copy of the Factory Service Manual from the FAQ. It contains all of these procedures.

StevenL5975

Hello,

sorry to bring this thread back, but I have a similar problem with my car.

1986 (gxl I think) bone stock without turbo.
Car is in very good shape for its age, no major damages etc ...
New fluids all over with exeption of gear and diff. (Sheduled next)


Well this is what happened:

I took the car out for a spin around town, about 1 km later I had to stop.
After that I put in 1 st gear and revved up to about 4000 rpm and then second gear, same thing.
But when I attempted to shift into 3 rd gear as soon as I pressed the clutch pedal
the engine started revving its way up past 5000 rpm.
I quickly released the gaspedal but it did not stop revving.
A second later it reached 7500 rpm, 8000 rpm and the buzzer went on, I immediatly turned the key
and the engine shut down ... Pulled the car aside, flashers etc ...

The gas pedal was not stuck under the carpet, I opened the hood and checked the throttle cable.
I mean the cable itself works without problem (cable housing is not damaged)
but where it is attached on the engine, that thing does not go back to its original position.

But it did finally release when I moved that small thing on the opposite side, right above the TPS.
There are also springs and a long lever which goes somewhere down the engine bay.
I dont know what that lever does, but it seems that the problem comes frome that area.

I also have a charging issue, the alt does charge with 15,16 V, but I think thats another story.
Oh, I remember the PO told me he drove the 7 sometimes without air filter.


Any held would be greatly appreciated.


Best regards
Steven

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the lever you are referring to is a long rod that travels down the passenger side of the engine then that would be the oil metering rod which tells the oil metering pump when to increase or decrease the amount of oil to inject into the engine as it is based on the throttle position. This rod should move fairly freely when the engine is off. If this is the item you speak of then play with it until it moves as it should.

The alternator should be producing about 14.7 volts maximum and voltage close to 16 volts will damage your electrical circuits. You want to use a multimeter and check the output of the alternator by placing the red meter lead on the B+ terminal of the alternator which is a single Black cable bolted to the side of the alternator and the black meter lead to a ground source such as the negative battery terminal with the engine running. This will give you a more accurate reading as the gauge in the car might not be accurate now.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the two wire connector is plugged in at the back of the alternator and that the terminals aren't corroded. Also, have the alternator tested. You may have lost the regulator.

As for the throttle body, check to make sure there isn't a physical problem with a broken spring. Check the dashpot. I came across a failed one recently that would hold the throttle open. Blow the area out with compressed air then SOAK it in penetrating oil. Work all the shafts for a few minutes, then clean ALL the oil off with brake cleaner and then blow dry.

StevenL5975

Thanks for the reply, satch & aaron cake.

As for the alt, I am sure the regulator is shot.
My digital multimeter shows 15,16 Volts on the Battery and 0,1 - 0,2 V more on the alt.
I think I have an S5 alt because there is an adaptor on the S & L wires.
PO did replace the alt and battery a while ago.
Anyway I will replace them both again. I dont want a fried ECU or CPU.
Already payed 3000 $ for repairs to get it inspection passed.

I think it is exactly that rod you are writing about. Goes somewhere down on the bay. I will check that out.
I am still a bit worried about the PO driving without air filter. Could the butterflyes/throttle
been stuck because of dirt or dust comming in ?
Can I remove the plastic hose which comes from the air cleaner box and goes
to the intake and clean the butterflies ?
According to FSM the butterflys must be placed right there.

Anyway I will try out tomorrow (maybe today when it stops raining ...) to clean that area
with brakecleaner and spraying it with M0S2 (i dont have WD40 here)
Then clean again as you described.

What do you mean with "Work all the shafts for a few minutes" which shafts ?

Regards
Steven

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can remove the large hose that brings air into the throttle body for cleaning purposes. Also, you can disconnect the oil metering rod at the the throttle body as it connects to it via a cotter pin and then play with the throttle linkage to see if it is still stuck and this will give you a good idea as to whether the problem lies within the throttle body itself or the oil metering rod.

Evil Aviator

Once cleaned, you can use a dry lube, such as graphite or teflon-based lubricants. These are available at hardware stores and gun shops. While teflon would be best in theory, I also had excellent results with Gunslick Graphite Lube on my RX-7 throttle linkage when I used it once when I was out of teflon lube. BTW, graphite sucks for locks... use teflon.
http://www.properautocare.com/dupelu.html
http://www.gunslick.com/products/che...phitelube.aspx

StevenL5975

Thanks for the help,

I cleaned the assembly as mentioned and now it works freely.
Only thing I could add to aaron cake s description would be to put some paper under the
intake area to prevent all the pen- oil stuff going in there.
The OMP rod is a PITA to follow down the bay, i am happy it was just the upper
spring/throttle assembly causing the trouble.


Regards
Steven