Hey guys,
I'm trying to change my plugs but the hexagon part is pretty much stuck inside my engine bay. I can't reach it with any tools at all! Any ideas how I can force them out?

 

What?

 

pour water in your intake and turn it by hand. fluid doesnt compress so it will force the plugs out

 

^ DON'T DO THAT.


I think I know what you may be talking about. The round outside edge on the spark plug socket needs to ground down flat with each of the inner flat sections in the socket.

I don't have a picture to show you, so that may be a bit confusing. Other people have done this, too.

 

This. The previous owner probably used standard (not rotary specific) plugs.

 

is the porcelain part of the plug broke off,and you just can't get the Steel part out of the housing?

 

My local Mazda tech had a special socket that fit perfect for the plug.

If you look at the block there is a small circle that can block some plug sockets from seating completely. BEFORE you do any more damage it might be cheaper to just source this socket.

 

I use a deep socket. 3/8" drive, some cheap spark plug wrenches are too big in diameter to get into the recess, Jeep plug or RX 7 plug, same size across the flats

 

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...ion/11529.html
this is what the guys are talking about.See how the wall of the socket is thin?.so it will get around the Hex of the plug,past that little lip on the housing.
No,I wouldn't pay 81 bucks for a freakin socket,I would make a Thick one THINNER!(grinder time..woohoo!)

 

Hmm... I've never had an issue pulling spark plugs out of any rotary. I use a craftsman 13/16" swivel spark plug socket:



http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-1...&blockType=L10

 

thanks for the responses guys!


I went around looking for a thin walled 13/16 deep socket but couldnt find any. I may just end up grinding one down like you suggested. Thanks a lot! I'll let you all know how it works out

 

Take a socket into a machine shop and have them turn down the end on a lathe.

Do you know what kind of plugs are installed currently? They're not standard NGK ones if you're having this problem.

Per Mazdatrix:
They also sell a small diameter socket, but it's $100

 

Maybe if they didn't use snapon socket, maybe it wouldn't be so expensive...

 

if you can get the number off the plug.

 

Then that leads us to the next question....

How did the previous owner get them in there?

 

Make sure to use some anti-seize on the new plugs

 

Okay i got the old ones out and the car ran great with the new ones. but i think theres something fouling my plugs because the car is starting to misfire and run like **** again. any ideas?

 

A good quality spark plug socket usually doesn't have to be as thick and may work without modification.

RE: fouling - all maintenance up to date? Stock? OMP on the car or pre-mix? Does it seem to run rich? Any blue smoke or oil burning?

 

pull the engine out and drop it off on the previous owner's doorstep with a note attached that reads: "please use the proper spark plugs next time!"


check the old plugs to see if they have any scratch marks on the tips... i have pulled out a few where the apex seals tapped the tip of the non specific **** plugs, then do a compression test.

 

My last full maintenance was a few months ago but my car has been sitting for a few months because I was at school.
I have the RB road race exhaust and the exhaust pulses on the rear rotor (I think it's the rear) are uneven and sound harsh as hell. Compression test coming up tomorrow
*keeping my fingers crossed

okay just did a poor man's compression test and got even pulses from each rotor. My new plugs were blackened when I pulled them out though. The car was running a bit rich so I'll get a new O2 sensor too.

Oh and my last plugs didn't have any scratches on them either.

 

As far as running rich, it could be a number of things. First, check fuel pressure. If you have a bad fuel pressure regulator, it could be forcing more fuel through the injectors than the ECU thinks. A bad O2 sensor is possible, but I wouldn't go throwing parts at it just yet. I've also seen people do this stupid "mod" to their airflow meters where they take off the black plastic top part and loosen the clockspring. What that does is allows the flapper door to move more freely. Their thought is that it is less restrictive. Reality kicks in and then they realize that with it being so free, it flies open at ease, causing a stupid-rich condition at all times.

Other possible causes could be, but not limited to: stuck injectors, oversized injectors, bad coolant temp sensor, or an open/short in wiring somewhere.

 

How do I diagnose if the injectors are bad?
I unplugged both connectors for the secondary injectors and the car ran the same. Would both injectors be stuck? Although only one of my rotors seems to be running harsh...

 

Secondaries don't work until after 3800 rpm. To figure out if the injectors are leaky, you'll need to pull them, zip tie them to the fuel rail, then turn the key on, and jumper the yellow connector near the AFM. That will supply full fuel pressure to the injectors, and you just watch for drip drips.

Yes, you'll have to pull the upper and middle intake manifolds off.

 

If your injectors do end up having problems, I've had good experiences with Witch Hunter Performance. In fact, you should probably send them in either way while you have access to them.

 

^ +1 for Witch Hunter Performance


Just to add a little bit...

Strap/secure the injectors to the fuel rails. Unbolt and remove the fuel rails. (There's an illustration of this in the 88' FSM. "Fuel and Emission Control Systems" 4A-70) - Obviously you do not remove the injectors or any of the fuel lines. Be sure to set some rags or something under the injector's fuel outlet nozzle, to absorb fuel in case they are stuck open. Jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector at the passenger side strut tower, near the AFM. Turn the key to "ON"... Not to "START". You'll hear the fuel pump running... Now go check the injectors to see if they are spewing/leaking.

If you do not have a Factory Service Manual, here is a link to the 1988 FSM "Fuel and Emission Control Systems": http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf