I actually have a 1st gen with the 6 port 13b, but, I'm wonder if you guys know of a way to unclog the 5th and 6th ports if they're internally stuck without taking the intake manifold apart? The 5th port works perfectly fine, the 6th was stuck closed and using an airpump I've now got it stuck open, but, it's a bit lumpy below 3k now. How've you guys gone about freeing them up?

 

"How've you guys gone about freeing them up?"

We take the intake off.

Its the right thing to do. (and worth it)

Just make sure that you replace all the hardened vaccum lines!!!!!

Also make sure that they move freely (flop around if possible) when you move them with the actuators off.

 

Shitty, how long did it take you? All the hoses are good, the engine was rebuilt about 15,xxx kms ago so everything is still in good shape. Except for this port obviously

 

well, then that port should never have stuck this soon, so I also wouldnt expect all the vac lines to have been replaced.


Its easy.
Easier then the series 5 intake cleanings I do all the time.

It takes longer to clean the parts well, than the total time to remove and re-install it all.

So its a day job.

Get some gasket remover, carb cleaner and REALLY REALLY REALLY strong cleaning solution. some wire
brushes.

Use the gasket remover to clean the stubborn deposits in the block tube (for the sleeve) and dip the sleeves in the REALLY strong cleaner (try a paint can of that gunk stuff in stores) and then clean the intake system with gasket remover.

Then use carb cleaner to clean the less dirty areas and to rinse the gasket remover.

try some gasket remover on the sleeves after they come out of the dip (leave them in for a few hours.)
maybe overnight?

clean everything within an inch of its life!

then put a LOAD of WD-40 down the intakes of the block to lube the engine so it wont bind from being stripped by the cleaners.

make sure that you reference a factory service manual or some other very detailed manual.

It will be a major dirrerence that you feel when your done!

 

So I guess going the lazy route and shooting some WD-40 down the intake manifold in hopes of it freeing up is a no-go?

 

No, because the 5 and 6 ports are on top of the 3 and 4 ports, so the wd-40 will just run under the 5 adn 6 ports and into the engine, and will never touch the 5 and 6 ports at all.

5------6
1 2 3 4

Get it?

 

I see I see, makes sense, was worth a shot tho

Nice TII btw.

 

This may be worth at least a try. My front port was stuck, and it was only the shaft. I removed the actuator and retaining plate, and the shaft came out after much penetrating oil and fussing. The shaft and hole cleaned up with carb cleaner. Lubed with motor oil & reassembled. The sleeve inside still turned freely.

 

I would try to free it up by hand and some WD-40 or any similiar product, and spray it in the little rod, it worked for my, but mine weren't as bad as some. It's worth a shot and if it works you'll have saved your self some time. BTW, work the ports back and forth with your hand or a needle nose plyers.

 

If you try to free the shaft by hand...
Remember this:

This shaft reduces to about the diameter of a q-tip stick rigt at the place where the plate holds it in.

this is where it will BREAK OFF if you turn it too hard.

You say you can get it to turn with high pressure air, so try to turn and pull GENTLY once the actuator and plate is off/unbolted.

if it starts to come out, then stop turning and pull gently.

When the shaft is about 1/8th inch - 1/4 inc out of the manifold, it will disengage from the sleeve.

remember this position!!!!!

you will need to re engauge the sleeve when you re insert.

use Carb Cleaner to eat away at the material in the shaft hole. (too small to scrub) use the shaft to ream out the material with the carb cleaner in there.

ultimately, if the sleeve does turn freely, (all the carb cleaner hitting it mught help), then you will need to re-engage the sleeve shaft and you will feel the sleeve turn after about 1 millimeter of rotation of the shaft.


If you have the sleeve on the shaft right, as you turn the shaft back and forth, you will feel the sleeve give resistance about 1-2 millieters after each turn begins.

You should also hear it grinding around in there.
A mechanics stethaschope will help alot to dertermine if you have it.

test the turning with the sleeve disengaged and then with it engaged, youll hear the difference.

 

Thanks for all the help I'll try tonight after fixing my passenger power windows.

 

Got it working!

I removed the actuator pump as not to damage it and using some pliars began gently trying to move the lever back and forth, after a while it started to go a bit more, eventually all the way, altho very stiff in some spots. After working it back and forth for about 45 minutes it's as free as the front one, awesome!

 

Cool, thats pretty much how I fixed mine, that and a lot of WD-40.

 

Now, run about 4 bottles of fuel injector cleaner through a full tank of gas.

make sure you open and close those ports often then entire tank.

this might cut the crud more.

 

4 bottles?!?!! You going a little overboard there?

 

NOPE

Its cuts the CRUD FAST!

the one bottle formula is for maintaining a car.
trust me on this, i do it to all my new rotary aquisitions and they all brighten up after that first tank!

 

Sounds insane....Think I'll try it.

 

Note, you'll notice it right after the next tank of Mid-grade, or about halfway through it.

 

After reading this thread, I have a question. When I bought my car, my 5th and 6th ports were stuck. So I took the upper intake off and sprayed W-D down there and worked them loose with a pair of pliers. Ran great afterwards. This was about a year and a half ago.

Is it possible that they can become Gumned up again?

The reason I ask this is because my car is starting to have a hesitaion at about 6k. But its not all the time, it varies alot. I was considering about taking the intake off again and doing a thorough job this time.

Does this sound like my problem?

 

6k souns more like your VDI. Hesitation with the 5th and 6th ports would acure about 3800 or 4000rpm. Yes, they could very likly get gumned up again. I would either test it by hand or a compresser works very well to shot some air in the lines to watch it work. If the 5th and 6th are working properly (and it sounds like they are) it's probably your VDI; of whick I know little about being a S4 guy. Hope that helps some. Do some more testing.

 

Anytime you use OIL to free the ports, you are unwittingly introducing GLUE into the system.

This oil will turn into varnish under the hot conditions in there.

You need to be careful freeing the ports liek you did with pliers, I have seen them snap off in peoples' hands like that. the are VERY thin just as they go into the manifold.

The right way is to clean the intakes and block by hand.

You can dip the lower manifold and clean it that way. thats best.

the sleeves too. Use that carb cleaner that is in a pail.

just dont TOUCH that stuff! (Hexavaliant Chromium, need i say more?)

But it reduces cleaning tim to 1 hour sitting in there rather than 4 scrubbing by hand.

and whatever you do DONT USE THE OLD VACCUM HOSES!

 

So it sounds like its my VDI then, how do I test it? If its bad, can I "wire" it open? or do I have to replace it?

 

Well as far as wiring it open..

You can do ANYTHING half way.
but you can DL the factory service manual and test it.
if its bad, (meaning the VDI vaccum solenoid) then replace the solenoid.

My bet is that its a simple electrical problem.
but see if your ports are stuck again.

I bet they are.

 

But sticking at 6k RPMS? Everytime I drive my car I never stay below 5k in any gear. Il check the manula on how to test the VDI, And I dont have a problem cleaning the ports again. Should I be able to move them freely when the engine is turned off?

 

Did any of you attempt to clean the 5th & 6th port openings in the housings? Any adverse effects?

I removed the entire intake, cleaned it, and installed pineapple inserts in the sleeves. But I did not do anything to the 5th & 6th port openings in the housings. I chose not to spray any carb cleaner, etc. into the block. I was concerned about leaving a pile of gunk in the housing after the cleaner evaporated.

What are your thoughts about using a little high temp lithium grease on the actuator rods when reinstalling?