Mac_1421

?To: The guys that said thier alt rubbed holes in the bar. Are you ******* retarded? Why would you spend money on a bar just to weaken it and possibly snap it along with the damage to your alt? Sounds like shortcuts and lazyness.

RETed

Wow, interesting comment and totally off base...
The front upper strut bar is designed to prevent changes in camber due to the shock towers moving toward or away from each other.
That's it.
For this function, this bar does fine.


-Ted

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, but look at the way the bar is mounted. It's mounted via sheet metal to two risers. The bar will not compress, which will cause the flange to bend where the risers mount. Thus, the shock towers move in or out regardless. The flange is just too thin to be much help. 1/4" material is the minimum I'd ever want to see on a strut bar. In my opinion, anything thinner is junk.

Then again, I prefer 1 piece strut bars that don't have any bolts holding parts of it together. I'd rather file a few bolt holes to make it fit then introduce more pivot points. That said, TitaniumTT's bar is awesome even though it does bolt together.

TitaniumTT

No, but are you an idiot? It was clearly said that many of these strut tower bars DO NOT FIT. with my Greedy, regardless of the position of the bar it rubbed on the alt. Even when it was rotated forward with a shorter belt, it hit. The retardely expensive Mazdatrix bar that it completely unadjustable hits. Read a litte and try to understand before a newb like you posts something that just completely discredits himself.

Thanks Aaron, my bar is so damn tight though that the car needs to be on jack stands and the bar needs to be pried on to get it to fit in before the 1/2" stainless bolts can be torqued down. I wanted to make the center peiece removeable for ease of maintenance.


OP - yes, the proper way to install a strut tower bar is to have the front end off the ground so the suspension and chassis are uncompressed. PM's that contain nothing more that ???? are pretty uselss don't you think?

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Sorry I did not understand what you said, I read it when I was really tired. I did not know this at the time however, but luckily my car was up in the air because of fixing something else, so it was on jack stands when I installed it.

Thanks for all of your guys comments and suggestions.

cmanns

Well my bars similar to his.

What I noticed is bumps in the front transfer over side to side more, and big bumps feel like they travel through the car. The rear end creeks whenever it goes over a speed bump or what not, since putting on the bar it now creeks when I go over certain bumps in the road.

Kinda hard to describe that, on hardcore cornering the front end feels tighter than without the bar.

I've never driven a car with a strut bar in the front, I also did it with the wheels on the ground so I dunno how well its working.

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

ok let me reanswer that, b/c although you simply said NO you still didn't answer his question, I do admit my previous answer is a bit flawed... I was in a rush to click submit cause I was on my way out the door... so in turn I guess I was standing and posting..

the dual pully is helpful if you remove your smog pump b/c without the belt for the pump pulling in the oposite direction on the main pully it can cause the alt belt to slip and over time break due to constant slipping...

so in fact the two belts do keep the alt tighter and in place, they will force you to buy new and shorter belts wich will most likely replace your streached out worn belt that is on there now

now I am sure someone can chime in with a smart *** comment like calling me a newb... ha ha real original there man... quit being so full of yourself, not everone can be perfect like you...

cmanns

Nice post count, 666 haha ^.

Clockker is a cool guy, hes right bro.

The dual belts will still stretch over time too.

How come ya guys have belt problems lol, I can't recall my dad changing the belts ever I just got some "gatorback" ones and they're TIGHT, and atleast 4years old.

I'll post up a pic of my strut bar I'm pretty sure its exactly the same as his, and mine hasnt had any rubbing issues n such.

TitaniumTT

When I said "stand to post" I was referring to you posting out of your ***.

I dare say that with the alt torqued down to the pisspoor adjusment arm, you could rev it to whereever and it won't bounce around, at all, not even in the slightest. Now, if your motor mounts are shot, thats a different story. Replacing or downsizing belts won't fix a bad motormount though

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

i know, i was being a smart ***...

i was not intending to post out of my ***, just was rushing and wasn't thinking my answer through all the way

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

It's definately too close, I also found out I need to tighten my motor mounts down. Hopefully will get to that tomorrow.

Will be getting the alternator swiveled down a bit, and a shorter belt installed soon.

cmanns

Ahh i gotta s5 though maybe thats why it fits fine?

http://filesend.it/view/full/349_s7yzy
Pic, also looks same as yours 1MZFE

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The whole point- indeed, the only point- of the dual pulley setup is to increase belt contact on the waterpump, so it doesn't slip.
Has absolutely nothing to do with the alternator or "opposing tension" on the main pulley.

1MZFE

iTrader: (9)

Look at your alternator and look at mine, yours is down on your swiveling rung or whatever the hell you would call that thing, mine is at the top.