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Strut bar clearance question...

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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 02:52 PM
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Strut bar clearance question...

Okay, so when I went to go put on my new strut bar, I found out my alternator is too high.





This may seem like a newbie question, but is it possible to rotate the bar 90 degrees, and have it installed like this below?



If I do that, it will work, I think anyway.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 03:01 PM
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I hate cheapo aftermakt parts. My car was in a few accidents but nothing major and no strut bar has ever fit properly, that's why i built my own. Was that an e-bizzle $35 special?

\To answer your question, yes it will work just fine althought one alt bolt may eat through it.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 03:05 PM
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I bought it from a forum member, TrboRty.

So turning it 90 degrees like that it will still do it's job and will be safe and secure? (if i do it right)
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 03:09 PM
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The other option is to make it parallel to your hood. Place a small hunk of 1/4 plywood or some sort of spacer between the bar and the alt. Then tighten the bar in place, then remove the spacer. If your engine mounts are good, then 1/4 should be plenty of room there.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 03:43 PM
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Looking at the design of the bar, I doubt it contributes anything in regards to rigidity. The flanges that mount to the towers are very, very thin and the mount to which the bar attaches creates a massive lever on those flanges.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 03:46 PM
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I got one like that off of ebay, their really cheap

I also had to grind down the inside of it a tad so it'd fit down, mine was pretty strong and I noticed a difference in handling but I'm still unsure if the strut bar is helping or not.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 04:01 PM
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I think Arron is right the flanges do look fairly flimsy to make much of a difference. I would use the mounts but cut off the "risers" and weld taller and a little thicker ones to the original baseplates. my .02.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mac_1421
I think Arron is right the flanges do look fairly flimsy to make much of a difference. I would use the mounts but cut off the "risers" and weld taller and a little thicker ones to the original baseplates. my .02.
probably a good idea. it looks like the mounts are made from a pop can.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 04:08 PM
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On mine it was very stiff, took forever! to get just 1/4th of a cm taken off on some areas... his looks just like mine.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 04:12 PM
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Can you use a shorter belt so there is clearance? I have a mazdatrix solid bar and mine also rubs. Mine is a 91 N/A
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 04:21 PM
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I had the same one. The alt rubbed a hole half way through the strut bar. lol

getting a smaller belt is an option and would help
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 87 t-66
probably a good idea. it looks like the mounts are made from a pop can.
Yup - some 1/4" AL would be just slightly stronger.



Again - aftrmkt parts for the FC are generally cheap. Apparently even MT can't get it right if thier retardedly overpriced bar hits.

And whoever mentioned the alt bolt wearing a hole though thier bar - my Greedy - GREEDY did the same thing -

I say build it yourself - https://www.rx7club.com/fabrication-250/fc-strut-tower-firewall-bar-engine-torque-brace-774746/
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 05:15 PM
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I've heard double pulleys are great for our cars and you'll get that extra clearance for your strut bar. It sucks because I have one on my car and the alternator probably chewed a hole into it already but I'm not super pissed since I got the bar for free and the car still handles better than before I had it. Now if only I could find a good double pulley...
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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Why would the pulley make any difference?
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 06:26 PM
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two belts keeps alt tight and won't bounce up when belt streatches,

i have a corksport bar, like 90 bucks, but i have a larger ALT from and FD and i have about 1/4" clearance, with a bad motor mount and have never had a problem
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mike_merryguy
two belts keeps alt tight and won't bounce up when belt streatches,
I'm going to channel RETed here and just say....



NO.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 07:22 PM
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so many newbs who need to stand to post
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:16 PM
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I called a friend and had him come help me get it on, with some effort we got the suspension back under it, and all tied down nicely.

Have yet to drive with it to see how it is, but it's on nice.

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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:21 PM
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what u do bend it?
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:22 PM
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get a shorter alt belt and move the alt down.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:27 PM
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Didn't bend it, just just going back and forth with changing settings on the bolts, bolted 1 down tight, changed a setting, did the other side, changed a setting, etc etc

After about 5 minutes of tweaking with him helping me, got it right.

Hopefully there won't be any problems. I'm going to take my car to les schwab soon and have them check the alignment just in case I messed with anything.

If there is something wrong, I'll get a shorter belt and move it down an inch or two.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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i got the same strut bar you need a shorter belt
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 10:12 PM
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^^agreed..

:AA:
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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Mine was similar. I mounted the bar in front of the arms, using a longer bolt and a spacer between the arms on each side. Works fine, and definately stiffer than none...
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 11:50 PM
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So you do know that you need to torque everything down with the wheel dangling, right?
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