streetport or brigeport
10-26-09, 05:34 PM
#2
what are your power goals? is it going to be a DD is just a fun weekend car?
Street port net you a good amount of power still keeping it reliable and streetable
Bridgeport is moving away from reliability and streetability, but net you more power.
Street port net you a good amount of power still keeping it reliable and streetable
Bridgeport is moving away from reliability and streetability, but net you more power.
10-26-09, 06:26 PM
#4
I wouldn't do a bridge just because its too loud. Don't assume that you need serious porting for big power if the engines boosted. Give it a streetport if you can do it yourself or get it done for a good price, or just screw it and spend the money on some nice housings/rebuild kit or turbo setup/EMS.
10-26-09, 06:41 PM
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Florida
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yea well i have a microtech LT10 i got a 60-1 wheel and housing on my stock s5 turbo 750cc/1600cc injectors walbro 255 fuel pump frount mount intercooler 3gen upper intake manifold custom made single 90mm throttle body 3in down pipe and hks hi power exaust im using it as a weekend worrior so i can cruse it and take it to the track and woop on a corvette or when i cruse it on the weekend and just beat the ritch punk in his viper and make him feel bad you know lol
10-26-09, 06:48 PM
#6
yea well i have a microtech LT10 i got a 60-1 wheel and housing on my stock s5 turbo 750cc/1600cc injectors walbro 255 fuel pump frount mount intercooler 3gen upper intake manifold custom made single 90mm throttle body 3in down pipe and hks hi power exaust im using it as a weekend worrior so i can cruse it and take it to the track and woop on a corvette or when i cruse it on the weekend and just beat the ritch punk in his viper and make him feel bad you know lol
10-26-09, 06:55 PM
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Florida
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol i cant wait but i dont know what to do every body i talk to tells me something different u know so i wanted to ask you guys i what will make me able to beat that viper i have drove the car yet with all the parts last time i drove it it was just about stock so idk if i will be able to do it now
10-26-09, 11:23 PM
#12
well rested,buffet o food
Control C........Control V
Peripheral porting is the most extreme form of rotary breathing enhancement - and it's (by far!) the loudest. Instead of conventional metal shaping with a grinder, the side ports are actually filled and completely new circular - peripheral - intake ports are fitted directly through the rotor housing and are easily identified on an engine by its tubular intake manifold.
Low rpm torque, drivability and economy are completely lost but it's just the ticket for peak power - often, over 100% improvements can be gained over standard. (Note that with really good engine management, a PP can be driven on the street quite successfully - but you'll need injector end-point setting facilities and other such management features.)
The effective torque band is also moved way up the tacho - beginning from around 5000 and building to a theoretical 10,000 rpm! (And building an engine to rev this high is another matter!) A PP won't idle much below 1800 rpm either - so by all accounts, it's a high revving and highly stressed engine that aren’t for the street.
However, in excess of 300hp can be found at the flywheel when combined with a race intake and exhaust. In order to construct a PP, the standard side ports must be filled or blocked off somewhere upstream in the intake.
Then, relatively large diameter ports are machined through the rotor housing (yes, on its periphery!) and into these are inserted aluminum sleeves that are shaped for best results with a die grinder. A sealant is then used to form a seal between the housing and the sleeve.
PRO'S: The ultimate form of rotary porting for maximum power
CON'S: Excessive noise, extensive intake modifications, very poor drivability and fuel consumption, relatively short engine life, very expensive, narrow power band
John ny
Peripheral porting is the most extreme form of rotary breathing enhancement - and it's (by far!) the loudest. Instead of conventional metal shaping with a grinder, the side ports are actually filled and completely new circular - peripheral - intake ports are fitted directly through the rotor housing and are easily identified on an engine by its tubular intake manifold.
Low rpm torque, drivability and economy are completely lost but it's just the ticket for peak power - often, over 100% improvements can be gained over standard. (Note that with really good engine management, a PP can be driven on the street quite successfully - but you'll need injector end-point setting facilities and other such management features.)
The effective torque band is also moved way up the tacho - beginning from around 5000 and building to a theoretical 10,000 rpm! (And building an engine to rev this high is another matter!) A PP won't idle much below 1800 rpm either - so by all accounts, it's a high revving and highly stressed engine that aren’t for the street.
However, in excess of 300hp can be found at the flywheel when combined with a race intake and exhaust. In order to construct a PP, the standard side ports must be filled or blocked off somewhere upstream in the intake.
Then, relatively large diameter ports are machined through the rotor housing (yes, on its periphery!) and into these are inserted aluminum sleeves that are shaped for best results with a die grinder. A sealant is then used to form a seal between the housing and the sleeve.
PRO'S: The ultimate form of rotary porting for maximum power
CON'S: Excessive noise, extensive intake modifications, very poor drivability and fuel consumption, relatively short engine life, very expensive, narrow power band
John ny
10-27-09, 01:08 PM
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: st. louis
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you get a bridge you will need a new turbo. It sounds like you have some sort of hybrid turbo which is going to choke way to fast. If you are running a bridge look in to a 35RS, 40R or 42R. Check out the single turbo forum for more sizing info. The other thing to note is you are going to need at least is a larger down pipe for these turbos. One thing to note... bridges are pretty loud. I have a half bridge and a 4" exhaust and the car idles around 100dB if i dont have my exhaust control valve closed.
If you dont want to deal with all the noise you can still use the turbos mentioned above but on stock or streetported setups but you are going to make less power. People have gotten 700+ hp on stock ports.
If you dont want to deal with all the noise you can still use the turbos mentioned above but on stock or streetported setups but you are going to make less power. People have gotten 700+ hp on stock ports.
10-27-09, 02:12 PM
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
the bridgeport is going to be loud as stated by others. I have one but mine is na so i dont have a turbo to quiet it down a bit. Not much of a dd. If your car is going be driven on the road more than the track id say street port . You can make good enough power with a streetport and more reliability.
10-27-09, 04:43 PM
#16
dfwssvd
WAO!I have a dam bridgeport and it runs fines on the street,i use this car at least 5 days a week to go to work,It has good low end torque and amazing top end.The trick is on how the cuts are made,On my turbo 2 the cuts on the irons are not that long(they are located right at the center of the runners) but they are fat(notched housings)so that way i get more air,on my FB i went the other way the cuts are long(as long as the original port openings)but not that fat and guess witch motor has more low end,the one with smaller cuts.Of course you still get all the overlap and brap brap brap idle is loud as hell but is amazing driving a bridgy,Everytime that i get on mine i get this huge smile and a hard on.Just tell me that you dont want your car to sound like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOjEj96Jvsc
Last edited by joeylyrech; 10-27-09 at 04:45 PM. Reason: e3f
10-27-09, 05:07 PM
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: st. louis
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WAO!I have a dam bridgeport and it runs fines on the street,i use this car at least 5 days a week to go to work,It has good low end torque and amazing top end.The trick is on how the cuts are made,On my turbo 2 the cuts on the irons are not that long(they are located right at the center of the runners) but they are fat(notched housings)so that way i get more air,on my FB i went the other way the cuts are long(as long as the original port openings)but not that fat and guess witch motor has more low end,the one with smaller cuts.Of course you still get all the overlap and brap brap brap idle is loud as hell but is amazing driving a bridgy,Everytime that i get on mine i get this huge smile and a hard on.Just tell me that you dont want your car to sound like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOjEj96Jvsc
10-27-09, 05:38 PM
#19
seals
No at all,in fact i opened up the motor after it had around 1k on it because i overboosted and kill the rear rotor and everything in the front was mint,When the motor was put together the first time that i did a comp test i got 120 psi with out even starting her up,all OEM Seal,2mm apex seal.
10-28-09, 10:02 AM
#20
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
There are a lot of myths surrounding bridgeports and this thread is kind of full of them. It's understandable. There aren't a lot of people who have built bridgeported cars, and it's not like most people see them everyday.
There's nothing fundamental about bridgeport cuts that make the engine loud. The loudness does not come from the intake so much, but how the exhaust is cut. True, there is some increase in intake loudness due to overlap but it is minimal considering how much of a muffling effect the manifold, intake plumbing and/or turbo system provide. Much of the noise comes from the big exhaust ports. Cutting down in any application increases noise quite a bit, but you will find exhaust ports cut downwards in many street ports as well. For example, the Racing Beat "street" turbo port templates bring the port down about 4MM, which causes the "blowdown" phase of the port opening to be much louder.
This is only an issue in NA bridgeports which need wide open, nonrestrictive exhausts to make their power. Turbo bridgeports have the wonderful muffling effect of the turbo, and the post-turbine exhaust is much more forgiving. While you might need to run a set of 2" NA pipes with minimal restriction for an NA bridgeport, you can run 3" and bigger pipes in a turbo application with several resonators to keep the noise down. There is no reason a bridgeport car has to be loud in most cases.
Turbo sizing on a bridgeport is completely different then on a street port. Bridgeports demand BIG, which precludes turbos like the GT35 or 60-1 except under specific circumstances. While the 35R might very well be the ultimate for a stock/street port 13B in the 400HP range (seriously, it is) it is not going to do well on a bridgeport even with the biggest exhaust side. Speaking of which, you need to go big. 1.06 T4 is about the minimum and still may result in some high RPM dropoff. Think 1.15...
Big power can be made on stock ports, there is absolutely no doubt. But think of the turbo lag! The nice thing about a bridge is that lag goes away. The low end misfires and high combustion pressures created (a consequence of overlap) will spool damn near anything. This is why when HP starts to increase, a lot of people (myself included) lean towards bridgeports. You'll also have a much better top end, with a little bit of low end sacrifice (only a little).
Yeah, there is a small sacrifice in low end but properly tuned, it isn't that big of a deal. Proper tuning is critical to how a bridgeport behaves. Most of the bad press bridgeports get is due to the crappyness of how carburetors handle the wild vacuum signal they create. Modern fuel injection eliminates this concern and makes a bridgeported car drive like stock. Though you are always going to have a little low RPM (1500 RPM) bucking, and the pulsing idle. Nothing can make them get good mileage though, so be prepared for 8-10 MPG in the city, and 20-25 MPG on the highway. Case in point, I drive my bridgeported car all the time (to work, on service calls, for fun, etc.) and cruise around at 2K in 4th gear in the city with no issues. And it's quiet.
When the cuts aren't crazy, bridgeport reliability is not a concern. You run into problems when the engine is not ported correctly. The eyebrow is too big and allows the side seal to catch, or the bridge is cut too thin and it just cracks. No a problem when the person doing the porting knows what they are doing. And you can have these issues on a street port as well.
There's nothing fundamental about bridgeport cuts that make the engine loud. The loudness does not come from the intake so much, but how the exhaust is cut. True, there is some increase in intake loudness due to overlap but it is minimal considering how much of a muffling effect the manifold, intake plumbing and/or turbo system provide. Much of the noise comes from the big exhaust ports. Cutting down in any application increases noise quite a bit, but you will find exhaust ports cut downwards in many street ports as well. For example, the Racing Beat "street" turbo port templates bring the port down about 4MM, which causes the "blowdown" phase of the port opening to be much louder.
This is only an issue in NA bridgeports which need wide open, nonrestrictive exhausts to make their power. Turbo bridgeports have the wonderful muffling effect of the turbo, and the post-turbine exhaust is much more forgiving. While you might need to run a set of 2" NA pipes with minimal restriction for an NA bridgeport, you can run 3" and bigger pipes in a turbo application with several resonators to keep the noise down. There is no reason a bridgeport car has to be loud in most cases.
Turbo sizing on a bridgeport is completely different then on a street port. Bridgeports demand BIG, which precludes turbos like the GT35 or 60-1 except under specific circumstances. While the 35R might very well be the ultimate for a stock/street port 13B in the 400HP range (seriously, it is) it is not going to do well on a bridgeport even with the biggest exhaust side. Speaking of which, you need to go big. 1.06 T4 is about the minimum and still may result in some high RPM dropoff. Think 1.15...
Big power can be made on stock ports, there is absolutely no doubt. But think of the turbo lag! The nice thing about a bridge is that lag goes away. The low end misfires and high combustion pressures created (a consequence of overlap) will spool damn near anything. This is why when HP starts to increase, a lot of people (myself included) lean towards bridgeports. You'll also have a much better top end, with a little bit of low end sacrifice (only a little).
Yeah, there is a small sacrifice in low end but properly tuned, it isn't that big of a deal. Proper tuning is critical to how a bridgeport behaves. Most of the bad press bridgeports get is due to the crappyness of how carburetors handle the wild vacuum signal they create. Modern fuel injection eliminates this concern and makes a bridgeported car drive like stock. Though you are always going to have a little low RPM (1500 RPM) bucking, and the pulsing idle. Nothing can make them get good mileage though, so be prepared for 8-10 MPG in the city, and 20-25 MPG on the highway. Case in point, I drive my bridgeported car all the time (to work, on service calls, for fun, etc.) and cruise around at 2K in 4th gear in the city with no issues. And it's quiet.
When the cuts aren't crazy, bridgeport reliability is not a concern. You run into problems when the engine is not ported correctly. The eyebrow is too big and allows the side seal to catch, or the bridge is cut too thin and it just cracks. No a problem when the person doing the porting knows what they are doing. And you can have these issues on a street port as well.
10-28-09, 10:44 AM
#23
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Do the people suggesting PP or semi-PP really know how much work is involved? As in, the need for a custom intake manifold? With a semi-PP you can get away with modding a stock TII lower, but that's far from ideal.
