My FC Vert Supercharger project should be finished either this week or next. I have an ACT Street/Strip clutch to put in the car, and while I'm in there, I'd like to put in a lighter flywheel. I've done a lot of searching and reading, and it seems that the lightweight steel is recommended over the aluminum for daily driveability.

What flywheel did you choose (material, brand, cost)?
Were you happy with your choice?

The Racing Beat lightweight steel is $390. I'm leaning towards that unless there are other significantly cheaper options that are of similar quality.

 

ive had 2 sr flywheels. and i like them once i get them working. the na i had some major issues with and the turbo one i needed all new hyrdolics. if i were you i would check on the act one. their stuff is normally quality. rb is good to although i heard about spacers and shims and i just never wanted that headache

 

Racing beat Aluminum Flywheel, and I don't regret anything about it

 

I have the 9.5# sr motorsports flywheel. Nice piece, I really like it.

 

mazdaspeed aluminum 12#

 

i used a 9# one from ACT i dont have any problem AT ALL
seriously its not any harder to drive

 

i have the SR motorsports 9.5lb w/ an ACT S/S clutch and its great, and this is my daily driver, its really not hard to adjust to at all

 

I am going with a multi disk carbon/kevlar clutch that comes with a 9lb flywheel. At first 1500 sounded expensive but after you buy a flywheel, clutch and pressure plate its not that unreasonable.

http://www.coximport.com/store/ZM012SD

 

SR Motorsports 9.5 flywheel with a ACT 6-puck/HD PP will never use anything less.

 

I've had zero issues with my Exedy clutch/RB 17lb. flywheel package. It shows a noticeable reduction in rotating mass, and after I installed the clutch/flywheel package, I seriously couldn't tell any difference from stock.

 

RB aluminum and some generic pressure plate and disc. Works great on my NA.

 

Aren't you using a Paxton SN bearing drive head unit? With the drag from the SN head, an aluminum flywheel could present some stalling issues when coming off the throttle quickly. This could be compounded if you keep the AC. I believe Phil Garrott is using a RB lighten Steel with his Nelson Paxton set up.

http://pbgarrott.tripod.com/Garrott.html

What's Scott recommending?

JP

 

I had the RB 17lb flywheel on my na, and now have a Cusco 17lb flywheel on my turbo. I have noticed with both flywheels that it is much more difficult to start from a dead stop a hill. Other than that I have no other problems.

 

Yes, it's the Paxton SN-89 head unit. I didn't think of the drag from the s/c, and yes the AC is staying. My tentative plan was to go with the light steel for driveability concerns, but this is definitley another good reason. Scott really doesn't have a recommendation. He'd probably just leave the stock one in there, but I like the feel of a flywheel. I think it will help get into the upper RPMs faster = more RPMs for the supercharger, more boost, more power.

Have I met you before?

 

I had an RB lightweight steel when my vert was N/A and I liked it. It was a little harder to start from a dead stop on a hill, but otherwise it was great. The engine seemed to rev up a little quicker.

Honestly, I didn't bother to buy another one since I did my TII swap. Its a decent upgrade for an N/A, but I don't know if its worth it for a boosted car IMO.

 

I wanna know why the Racing Beat flywheels are like twice as much as everyone else. It's freakin $450 for the aluminum flywheel... that's just freakin insane!! WHY?!

 

I think the RB ones cost so much more because they come with the required counter weight whereas the others do not.

 

They have a replaceable friction plate.

 

my SR has a replaceable friction plate, and it came with a counter weight

 

Act 8.8#

 

I dont want to hijack this thread but I've been considering a lighter flywheel as well. What about prices? What did you guys pay?

 

410 for flywheel and counterweight ACT 8.8lbs

 

I went with the Racing Beat steel flywheel. I don’t find it any harder to drive, and I live on top of a hill in a mountainous area. In all fairness, I don’t have any other experience with Rx-7 flywheel manufacturers. I have more experience with lightweight flywheels and other marques. Total weight is not necessarily a good indicator on the drivability impact of a flywheel. All things being equal (rarely in life are things equal), to a point, lighter is better, but after that point the engine may stall at a light when the AC compressor is engaged or a grabby clutch may make engagement a chore. That being the case, querying people who have actually used various products on their experience is probably the best approach.

$390 is what I paid and it seemed reasonable considering all the hardware was included. For example, if you buy a lightweight flywheel for a 911, the $100 starter ring gear is a separate piece, the six bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank are non-reusable and $10 each, and the non-reusable washer that sits behind the gland nut is $50.

I don’t want to hijack this thread in to a libelous diatribe or an argument of any kind. I’m genuinely curious about your response. Racing Beat has two founders, who was it that you found objectionable, and why? Also, what technology was stolen from HKS and Greddy?

 

I find this hard to believe, take for example all of the intake manifolds, Greddy and HKS does not produce such items for the rotary engine, same with the headers. Flywheels, and Catbacks, I don't know of any HKS\Greddy exhaust that are identical to the RB ones.

Yes they are expensive, just like any other excellent quiality product company out there (HKS & Greddy)

 

i run the act prolight (rated at 9.5 pounds), $250 from rx7store without the counter weight, which is only the automatic transmission counter weight, and my motor came out of an automatic anyways. i also have the act six puck with the heavy duty pressure plate.