JAPSPECGTUs

My fuel pump was rewired with a Walbro 255 on my TII project. Well the engine blew and I went back to N/A for reliability and cost issues. So I put in the old N/A fuel pump. I didn't change the wiring at all for the pump, just swapped the pump. Well the car has the following problems.

No idle
Low Power
Backfiring

I notice this strange occurence. When I rev the engine the relay for the fuel pump(radio shack) is clicking on and off when I give it more than 30% throttle. I drove it yesterday and the relay was clicking on and off during acceleration. When it clicks on and off the check engine light flashes.

So today I double checked my wiring according to the Write-up and all is as it should. I checked for loose connections and tightened my chassis ground for the pump. Fired it up and still the relay is clicking on and off. I am tempted to just return it to OEM because this is quite annoying. The relay was not clicking on and off with my TII/Walbro Setup. Any suggestions?

cloudzero

iTrader: (1)

maybe replace the relay and see if that helps?

JAPSPECGTUs

Yes, that could be done, I'll run to radio shack.. I don't even know if I could return it to oem because, the Blue and Red Wires from the harness aren't labled and there are several of them, that can be easily confused.

JAPSPECGTUs

Hmm strange thing just happened. I just changed my intake gaskets so my fuel was primed right. So I primed it, started it and it would die immediatly. Primed it again and same results. I unplugged the AFM and it started right up and actually reached a damn near perfect 750rpm idle. Good enough for me to check the timing, both leading and trailing are spot on. During this time when I would rev it up the relay was not clicking like before. Then it started to lower and buck a little bit, when the idle would reach below 500 rpms the relay would click and then the idle would raise a bit. Well I shut it off. Reattached the AFM and it started right up but now the relay was clicking like crazy. My theory is bad AFM? Could the AFM be bad and sending an incorrect signal to the pump relay?

JAPSPECGTUs

I just tested my AFM, its all within spec...hmm

JAPSPECGTUs

Strangely enough I had another relay. So I installed it, noticing I had 30 and 87 crossed, and 85 and 86 crossed. I was like, ahhh maybe that is it. Installed the new relay the CORRECT way and it actually ran worse...Stumbling and a lot of backfire..

What gives!?

JAPSPECGTUs

I don't get it, the check engine light and relay are clicking like crazy, off and on..relentlessly. WHAT COULD IT BE!? I just triple checked the wiring, it spot on, perfect using the FP Rewire thread and NZconvertible's diagram. Perfect...perfect..but runs like ****.

cloudzero

iTrader: (1)

that is strange that it is doing that, is your afm sitting flat? remember it can not be sitting on its side or at an angle.
also you can try to jumper the test connector by the passenger side strut tower to see if the fuel pump turns and a runs constantly. leave the afm plugged in while you do that and start the car to see if it continues to act up
Just wondering but when you switched back to n/a did you swicth back to the na afm? and change over your harness and ecu and map sensors?
you really could've just left the walbro pump in there if wouldn't of caused any problem

JAPSPECGTUs

I'll try the jumper tomorrow to see if that helps. It's an N/A AFM, N/A ECU, and N/A Harness. I didn't leave the Walbro in becuase I didn't want crappy MPG.
If none of the above helps I am going to wire it to stock spec. I found my original printout with my wire diagrams to help me identify which wire is which.

Kenteth

1) vac leak -- you had the manifolds off it sounds like
2) check the ground going to the afm, no ground = fuel pump shuts off after the starter relay clicks back to open.

JAPSPECGTUs

I've triple checked vac leaks. I replaced my UIM gaskets and cracked vac lines with new silicone ones. I'd be happy with a surging idle at least then i could put a vac line to my ear and check for air leaks.
The ground going to the AFM, is it part of the connector? Or the lone wire on my harness right next to the connector that is exposed. I thought that was strange but my other N/A Parts harness has the same lone wire.

JAPSPECGTUs

And after searching my FSM I see that my black Engine Thermosensor Checker is unhooked(not the Green sensor mind you), I remember on my TII that it hooked into the water pump housing, I guess N/A housings are different?