straight forward: how can my NA hit around 200whp if not more
#52
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All VDI does is vary the intake runner length depending on load/rpm for a smoother power band. It is tuned for STOCK PORT, after you port the motor who knows if vdi is helping or not, and maybe it's helping in one spot but hurting in another!
But that's besides the point, all I said was that it is NOT necessary. Once again, the motor that Kahren built and tuned had TII intake manifolds (was going to be a turbo'd n/a project) and hit 195rwhp BEFORE redline because it was leaning out too much. So vdi is not necessary.
But that's besides the point, all I said was that it is NOT necessary. Once again, the motor that Kahren built and tuned had TII intake manifolds (was going to be a turbo'd n/a project) and hit 195rwhp BEFORE redline because it was leaning out too much. So vdi is not necessary.
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This was all explained in my first post in this thread also, that seems to have been missed!
Here, for the people that didn't read it.
Here, for the people that didn't read it.
Originally Posted by dDuB
Complete bullshit.
Kahren built an s5 n/a motor with his style of porting, TII manifolds port matched to n/a block, and an s-afc (tuned) with stock ecu. Car had rb header + straight pipe + catback also I believe.
Was barely under 200rwhp BEFORE redline, had to pull back because it was running too lean up top. The curve looks as though it would've easily hit 200.
And all of this on a stock ECU and an s-afc... It's really not as hard as so many people seem to believe.
Kahren built an s5 n/a motor with his style of porting, TII manifolds port matched to n/a block, and an s-afc (tuned) with stock ecu. Car had rb header + straight pipe + catback also I believe.
Was barely under 200rwhp BEFORE redline, had to pull back because it was running too lean up top. The curve looks as though it would've easily hit 200.
And all of this on a stock ECU and an s-afc... It's really not as hard as so many people seem to believe.
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i was planning on a tII swap...saving up for it...then my coolant seal went os while it's gettin rebuilt i figure i'll get her streetported...and since it'll be a new motor i might as well make a damn good NA to hold me over for a lot longer before the turbo...you dont need more than 200hp to drift, it just makes it easier.
#57
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Originally Posted by dDuB
This was all explained in my first post in this thread also, that seems to have been missed!
Here, for the people that didn't read it.
Here, for the people that didn't read it.
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Originally Posted by Sideways7
Sorry, I had forgotten you posted it earlier. Now I just have to figure out how to port match the turbo manifolds and see if its worth the work.
I am not necessarily saying the TII manifolds are better, my point was just that VDI isn't "necessary."
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Has anybody posted a dyno yet of a N/A car over 200? I've seen lots of close and should've, but I've not yet seen a did (except for a pport and a huge bridgey)
#61
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Yeah, I figured that out once I read all of kahren's thread. For one thing, its like running with the aux sleeves removed. I think I'm just gonna stick with s5 upper/s4 lower and s5 rotating assembly. My ultimate goal is 200, but I will be more than happy with 180.
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Not that I've seen, but Kahren's still was 195 at 7k rpm with 8k rpm redline and ~8500 rev limiter, plus it was still on its way up.
Granted it still doesn't "prove" anything, but I think you can assume it would've kept going since it wasn't dropping off at all.
Granted it still doesn't "prove" anything, but I think you can assume it would've kept going since it wasn't dropping off at all.
#66
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Originally Posted by ramses666
ok... a Driveable streetcar with a nice useable powerband somewhere in the 200 RWHP range is what I would like to get out of my NA s4. I have the RB RR exhaust & K&N filter. So I would need a street port, VDI and some way to tune it(megasquirt & spark?). Maybe upgrade the fuel pump & FPR. So I figure that would maybe cost $1000 more than a regular rebuild. Would S5 rotors & internals help much or raise the red line/powerband? I'm not really interested in swapping drivetrains & lugs & rotors.
Ramses666
Ramses666
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Or you can do a streetport, keep stock ecu, get an s-afc and someone that knows how to tune, and make 200rwhp... Does no one read what I post?
Not that I'd ever advocate doing it, I'm just pointing out that exceeding 200fwhp is easy with a carb'd BP. Reaching 200fwhp with a streetport, OEM manifolds and stock ECU is not.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 01-30-06 at 03:31 AM.
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That's understandable, but I did say a few times that a "competent tuner" or "someone that knows how to tune" is needed. I also stated that all this work needs to be properly done.
I just find it a much more streetable route to take and shouldn't necessarily be tossed away quickly.
I just find it a much more streetable route to take and shouldn't necessarily be tossed away quickly.
Last edited by ddub; 01-30-06 at 08:32 AM.
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how bout just getting a bridge port with intake and exhaust .. everyone talks about being stretable wouldnt i just be able to bridge it and put a presilencer and cat and be alright? think i would be around 180 hp with just those mods correct? sry i dont know to much about all the porting and
hp gains and wut not
hp gains and wut not
#70
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Originally Posted by Jager
What did you dyno at again?
180hp and 182tq @ the rearwheels at around 8-9psi prior to some recent mods.
I am running very stock stuff just with upgrading reliability parts.
rebuilt S4 motor w/ S5 manifolds and turbo.
I daily drive this car 80 miles a day so I went with reliable over trying for hp.
I know 720's and an rtek would hit 200rwhp easily with say 12-14psi.
#71
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
That suppose to be a jab at me or a genuine question?
180hp and 182tq @ the rearwheels at around 8-9psi prior to some recent mods.
I am running very stock stuff just with upgrading reliability parts.
rebuilt S4 motor w/ S5 manifolds and turbo.
I daily drive this car 80 miles a day so I went with reliable over trying for hp.
I know 720's and an rtek would hit 200rwhp easily with say 12-14psi.
180hp and 182tq @ the rearwheels at around 8-9psi prior to some recent mods.
I am running very stock stuff just with upgrading reliability parts.
rebuilt S4 motor w/ S5 manifolds and turbo.
I daily drive this car 80 miles a day so I went with reliable over trying for hp.
I know 720's and an rtek would hit 200rwhp easily with say 12-14psi.
#72
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Originally Posted by lost01388
how bout just getting a bridge port with intake and exhaust .. everyone talks about being stretable wouldnt i just be able to bridge it and put a presilencer and cat and be alright? think i would be around 180 hp with just those mods correct? sry i dont know to much about all the porting and
hp gains and wut not
hp gains and wut not
#73
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Originally Posted by Jager
You have a nice car, but that was a jab.
My personal preference/car has nothing to do with the questions in this thread.
I said Turbo's are over all better for a HP goal........Name some 500hp NA 13b's........
I said Turbo's are easily modfied..... True. You don't have to crack open the block and do porting to hit 200.
I could go spend probably around $160 right now and get some injectors and a $20 rtek upgrade and prove this.
So....
Last edited by Digi7ech; 01-30-06 at 07:04 PM.
#74
Originally Posted by ProjectR13B
D) People who want to drift without turbo lag.
only reason why i'm not doing a Tii swap, but, that doesnt mean i still dont want a Tii haha
only reason why i'm not doing a Tii swap, but, that doesnt mean i still dont want a Tii haha
how come it seems like the people that are into drifting have a lower iq?
there are turbos that will pretty much have no lag incase you really didnt know.