secondary runners look normal to me, they're always filthy.

 

Thanks Rotary, good to hear. I plan on installing the injectors and gaskets, put everything back together and give her a whirl. Hopefully its music to my ears.

 

What brand tires are they?

 

Those were Bridgestone Potenzas that came with the wheels.

 

I'm a big fan of Mustang wheels, they are cheap, bolt right on, fit great, and are higher quality than many cheap aftermarket brands. Both cars have no spacers.

Here are some 17x9 cobra wheels on two of my cars. The first is lowered on RB springs:




The second is on Ground Control coilovers:



Other 15x7 Mustang Wheels I used for autocross:

 

While I am waiting for the new injectors to come in, I got to thinking about something else when I had tried to start it the other day.

When I was priming the fuel line to the engine with new gas, I took the fuel line off pass the filter and had it going into a bucket to catch the fuel. When I turned the key to the on position the fuel did not come out, I had to actually "crank" the engine before gas flowed out the line. Should the gas came out when just the key was in the on position? I think it should have. Maybe a fuel pump issue? Why would it just came out when in the crank position?

 

Your S4 has a switch connected to the flapper door of the AFM that turns on the fuel pump only when the flapper door is open. If the flapper is closed, the ECU figures there's no air going in, so no point in adding fuel.
You can either manually push the door open or jumper the connection to test the pump with the engine not running.

 

Thank you! I tried it and works fine with the flapper open. I just was going through other things other than the injectors that could have caused the engine not to get fuel and happened to remember the pump didnt kick on with the key in on position. Glad to have very knowledgable folks here.

 

Hang around long enough and you might meet one.

 

Sn95 Mustang wheels are what you want which is years 94-04. The 17x8s are + 30 offset. The 17x9 cobra wheels are +24 or +26 offset. They all work with the correct tire sizes.

 

It very well be the shadows in the pic. The rear looks dirtier than the front. As you said, what do you have to lose? Put it together and see if you can get it to start. Go from there.

 

So tomorrow I plan on replacing the thermostat and gasket. I imagine the gasket will be as tough to remove as the intake manifold gasket was. SLOW. Also replacing the fuel filter as I wait for the injectors. After that maybe I will look on why the stock radio does not work even though I plan on replacing it. When I turn it on the back antenna comes up and a little static from the speakers but nothing in the display. Probably will not worry about it and find a good replacement.

Still trying to decide on rims and tires......decisions, decisions, decisions.... I feel that makes or breaks the look of the RX7!

 

the intake gaskets are the only ones that are asbestos and tend to be hard as diamonds.

just don't grind them up to powder and snort them.

replacement gaskets are not made from the same material(thank god).

 

You can actually run the radio without the antenna, it's very good at pulling stations without it. I removed the whole antenna assembly from my car after it stopped functioning. It looks better without it.

Do you have a budget as far as wheels go or is the sky the limit?

 

another thing that i would put HIGH on the priority list for any long term stored rotary vehicle is a decarb.

the carbon deposits can become problematic after sitting such a long time.

 

So the antenna works and there are lights on the equalizer but nothing on display. I think it may be shot. As the wheels go, I hate to say the sky is the limit but if they look good...welll... I am leaning toward mustang wheels.. maybe silver in color or gunmetal 17x8 or 17x9 with either 235 40 or 225 45 tires. But hell the more I look the more confusing.

 

Could you elaborate more???? What do i need to do for a decarb?

 

i normally use water, there is some threads about how to decarb an engine. best to do it before an oil change.

ill see if i can dredge one up.


here is a writeup, i can't find my original one:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...thread-949720/

some people swear by seafoam, but it smokes, stinks worse, cost more and probably doesn't do any better of a job than simple H2O.

 

I like doing a decarb on my vehicles once a year

I just gotta be careful doing it on the daughters dakota, i hydrolocked it first time i did it Apparantly the 3.9 magnums don't pull air from the throttle plate at idle, they pull from a seperate port. I stalled the sob lol

Moral of the story, easy on how much water you put in...........course, due to design, can a rotary hydrolock?

 

Ok..... This is a first. So until I bought this car last week, I didnt know nothing about rotary engines but the LAST thing I would ever have thought you would want to put in an engine is water! Hell I had to get a complete engine rebuild on a Kawasaki Teryx4 SxS because I got water in it...course it piston. I did buy Seafoam and added it to the gas tank but sucking water into the engine makes me cringe!

 

It's fun and the neighbors will enjoy the spectacle.

 

Lol.I bet. Today the injectors and gaskets are suppose to be in. I really hope she will crank when I get it back together. I have been trying to think if there is anything I might be missing other than the injectors if it does not start.
This is how I came to bad injectors... Let me know what y'all think.

1) I had non-scientific fuel pressure at the secondary injectors rail. (When I pulled off the hose at the end of the rail, the pressure of the fuel momentary sprayed everywhere)
2) I had excellent blue spark on the new plugs.
3) Even though I didnt want to buy a compression tester, I felt like I have excellent compression. (Sounded like a locomotive with the plugs out)
4) When I sprayed starting fluid in the intake, she started and ran about 5 secs. (I did check the flap at the intake and worked fine)

So I feel like I had compression, spark and fuel (when I sprayed starting fluid in). That led me to believe it is the injectors. The O-rings were in bad shape. The only other thing it may be if the injectors dont correct the problem, would be something that fires the injectors to spray fuel.

Again I am just thinking ahead and hoping its just the injectors. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

Since you're down to the keg to replace the primary injectors anyway, now is the time to replace all the vac lines (about 15' of 5/32"(?) hose* and clean the ground points.

*two things to watch out for:
-The nipples on the solenoids are plastic and brittle, so be very careful removing the old hoses or the nipples will snap off

-Inside the hose from the intake to the MAP sensor is a restrictor pill that you must keep.

 

never managed to, the only one case that i saw it did happen was on a 13B-MSP RX8 that was totally submerged in water while running.

if i were to bet i would say your guess is good about the injectors, they tend to seize up when sitting for that long(not dead, just the old dry rotten fuel locks them up and they need to be flushed out to unseize).

 

Alright guys! Success! Car started up great. It idled high until engine warmed up then it started idling low but it's rough and then turns off. As long as I give it a little gas it runs fine. Got any ideas? What should the min idle rpm be? Thanks!