Thanks Iduley! Looks as new inside as well.

 

Ok. I have looked for the last 5 days. The more I look the more I get confused. I hate to ask the question because it has been asked so many time before. But here goes...... I want 17" rims and tires. I dont want collovers ( at least now) and I dont want to roll my fenders. I merely want to remove the stock tires and rims; and I want to put on 17's and look really good! Can I have a little help!?

 

Mustang Bullit wheels (I forget which generation) will bolt right on, have proper offset and are 17 x 8.

On the rear they could possibly use a 1/4>3/8" spacer to get a bit more flush, the fronts are fine.
I run 235/45 all around and barely get a rub on the driver side front, a slightly smaller tire (or just a different brand) might eliminate that.

 

Thanks, the setup you have looks really good!

 

I've had those wheels on so long now that I have a hard time picturing the FC without them.
If I were to change, I think the next best style is a mesh, like the original BBS's.

One disadvantage of the Bullits is all the open space makes the stock brakes look puny (although one could argue that they just have great air circulation), a problem the mesh avoids.
In a perfect world, a nice set of black Federal style steelies with a mini Moon center dish would probably look bitchin.

 

The mustang wheels look good. Might as well buy a Mustang Mach 1 lip to match since that fits perfectly on the 86-88 bumper as well.

Otherwise the Crown Vic has a great looking mesh wheel that fits and is 17" IIRC.

 

The mustang wheels do look good. You are right. HATE to jump to another question but here goes. Sorry for the lengthy write up....

So I drained the old gas and radiator fluid and put new back in. I removed the spark plugs, cleaned them and put about a cap full of marvin mystery oil in each bank. I then put the plugs back in and with the starter turned the engine over for about 10 secs. I then remove one plug each time and turned the car over while I watched for spark. So the compression sounds great but the spark was weak looking. It looked pinkish color. Since I didnt have any new ones with me, I put them back in. Still the car will not start. The only thing I can think of is the spark plugs. Any other ideas? Thanks

 

Regardless of whether the current ones work, I'd recommend investing in some NGK spark plugs. Get the wires too if you can spare the expense. It's a great thing to do for your car from the get-go. The trailing/leading spark plugs should be different, if you mix them up it may cause issues.

 

So... today I put new plugs and wires in..... but no start. I then shot a little starting fluid in the intake and BAM! ran for about 5 secs. I tried it again and it ran for 5 secs. SO.... I then removed the injectors and they were in BAD shape. I think that is my issue now. Just ordered two new ones, just got to wait till they arrive!

 

2 new ones? there are 4 by the way, which ones did you remove? if you removed the ones that are visible, not going to fix your issue, you need to take the upper and middle intake off to get to the primary injectors

 

ooops.. my bad. I meant to say 4.. not 2. Good catch though! Thanks

 

Ok... I'm about to pull the trigger on these rims and tires. Would they work without any rubbing or fender flaring? THANKS!


Brand: DrifZ Model: 207B FX
Finish: Black
Part # 207B-7754338
Size: 17x7.5 Offset: 38

Brand: TOYO Model: Extensa HP
Finish: 225/45-17

 

See how much it will cost to get running first...

 

Agreed, I know and understand how exciting it can be going through this, but hold off on buying the pretty stuff. Whats the point of buying gas when you don't own a car?

Heck, i haven't even seen the second most important information other then the car, compression test #'s

 

Yeah. Yall are right. Just thinking ahead until the injectors come in. I haven't tested compression yet but I figured if it will run for a few secs if I sprayed starting fluid in, the compression should be good. I do know it's not getting gas into engine, so from reading the info on the site it would seem it's the injectors. Its been sitting in storage for so long and when I removed the secondary injectors the seals were all dry rotted.

 

THIS is what happens when your Air Flow Meter is not plugged in/hooked up.Car starts for a couple seconds then dies.

 

Misterstyx makes a good point. While you wait on the injectors, remove the air box and take a look at the MAF unit (metal box thing with a flap door). There's a large black connector, make sure thats hooked up. Make sure the door moves freely as well, sometimes they get stuck shut from crud. Also follow the rubber intake tube to the throttle body, theres a smaller vacuum tube that could be missing. I once reassembled my intake and forgot that part, and it would start and die after a few seconds.

 

take some interior pics!

 

Like new inside as well

 

Good point about the air box. I will check it out good too as soon as I get all the gasket material off on the manifold! Slow going but I want to be sure it's clean.

 

 

 

Sorry for double pic. It's the intake manifold after of all day removal of the.intake and cleaning the gasket material. It was a B....! At least i numbered all the connections with blue tape so it will go back together easier after the injector replacement. Just.got.to wait.till they come in! Sitting on the front porch drinking a beer while typing this while mosquitos are biting me! Got to love south Mississippi! Time to go back inside!

 

I don't like the look of that rear secondary runner. You need to sort out the running and compression thing before getting too happy.

 

Tony.... Hey man..... I got nothing to lose.... if I have to replace to complete engine with a rebuild, so be it. All I know the inside and outside of the car is in A-1 shape. The more questions about possible issues the better. So thank you for the info. Lets hope its ok. What do you think may have caused that? I will have to look at it closer tomorrow, it may have been the way the pic came out.