Stock Turbocharger
#1
The Devil
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Stock Turbocharger
Hey, I wanted to get the most I can out of the stock turbocharger and had some questions.
1.) What' the max. PSI I can get out of it?
2.) I saw Karack saying that the stock turbocharger has a lot of juice, if it's modded "the right way". What's the right way?
Basically, I'm planning to turn up the boost on my car on the stock turbocharger to the most I can, what do I need to do to get the most out of it? Thanks.
1.) What' the max. PSI I can get out of it?
2.) I saw Karack saying that the stock turbocharger has a lot of juice, if it's modded "the right way". What's the right way?
Basically, I'm planning to turn up the boost on my car on the stock turbocharger to the most I can, what do I need to do to get the most out of it? Thanks.
#2
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
1) 12psi is about the max efficiency of both series 2nd gen turbos
2) i don't know what that was in regards to but a number of people have claimed ~280 to the wheels at 12psi on the stock turbos, modding them the right way would include porting the wastegate to bring the boost to a safe level when need be. to get any real power is made by adding onto the turbo like a standalone to adjust timing and fuel more accurately and a FMIC to cool the intake charge and a true cold air intake to keep the intake temps to the intercooler as low as possible.
you could also get a few added HP out of it with a standalone and race gas, up the timing a bit more and you can maximize what you have to work with but you really get a kick in the *** with race gas and an upgraded turbo since you can run more boost safely and gains of 25%+ on race gas are not uncommon(with the additional boost and timing, thought you were gonna flame me huh?! ).
2) i don't know what that was in regards to but a number of people have claimed ~280 to the wheels at 12psi on the stock turbos, modding them the right way would include porting the wastegate to bring the boost to a safe level when need be. to get any real power is made by adding onto the turbo like a standalone to adjust timing and fuel more accurately and a FMIC to cool the intake charge and a true cold air intake to keep the intake temps to the intercooler as low as possible.
you could also get a few added HP out of it with a standalone and race gas, up the timing a bit more and you can maximize what you have to work with but you really get a kick in the *** with race gas and an upgraded turbo since you can run more boost safely and gains of 25%+ on race gas are not uncommon(with the additional boost and timing, thought you were gonna flame me huh?! ).
#3
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port wastegate, FCD, bigger exhaust, bigger injectors, piggy back or stand alone fuel system.
Edit: CAI, and front mount like Karack said
Edit: CAI, and front mount like Karack said
Last edited by tinvestor; 08-27-06 at 07:14 PM.
#4
The Devil
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Originally Posted by Karack
1) 12psi is about the max efficiency of both series 2nd gen turbos
2) i don't know what that was in regards to but a number of people have claimed ~280 to the wheels at 12psi on the stock turbos, modding them the right way would include porting the wastegate to bring the boost to a safe level when need be. to get any real power is made by adding onto the turbo like a standalone to adjust timing and fuel more accurately and a FMIC to cool the intake charge and a true cold air intake to keep the intake temps to the intercooler as low as possible.
you could also get a few added HP out of it with a standalone and race gas, up the timing a bit more and you can maximize what you have to work with but you really get a kick in the *** with race gas and an upgraded turbo since you can run more boost safely and gains of 25%+ on race gas are not uncommon(with the additional boost and timing, thought you were gonna flame me huh?! ).
2) i don't know what that was in regards to but a number of people have claimed ~280 to the wheels at 12psi on the stock turbos, modding them the right way would include porting the wastegate to bring the boost to a safe level when need be. to get any real power is made by adding onto the turbo like a standalone to adjust timing and fuel more accurately and a FMIC to cool the intake charge and a true cold air intake to keep the intake temps to the intercooler as low as possible.
you could also get a few added HP out of it with a standalone and race gas, up the timing a bit more and you can maximize what you have to work with but you really get a kick in the *** with race gas and an upgraded turbo since you can run more boost safely and gains of 25%+ on race gas are not uncommon(with the additional boost and timing, thought you were gonna flame me huh?! ).
Heh, thanks for the input and no, I wasn't trying to flame you. I was just trying to say that you said it and I know that you are one of the most knowledgable guys on these forums, so that's why.
#5
The Devil
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Well, I plan to upgrade my turbo in the future so I'm not really trying to concentrate TOO much on this turbo.
What I'm trying to ask is, what's the most I can get out of this turbo with some cheap mods? Such as a boost controller and porting wastegate? And how far can I push the turbo with those cheap mods?
What I'm trying to ask is, what's the most I can get out of this turbo with some cheap mods? Such as a boost controller and porting wastegate? And how far can I push the turbo with those cheap mods?
#6
long live the monster BP
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as i found out the hard way. its not your turbo thats gona let you down. running more than 10 ( claimed safe ) to 12 psi can cause you motor to lean out and go bang. with out spending to much. a CAI and pod filter and 3" TID coupled with a 3" turbo back exhaust and 10-12 PSI is about the most you'll get from you stock set up.
add a SAFC and you can crank the boost up a bit more ( i dont know to how much)
with these motors ( in a reasonable cond ) the limiting factor is gas.
more gas meanyou can run more boost = POWER
add a SAFC and you can crank the boost up a bit more ( i dont know to how much)
with these motors ( in a reasonable cond ) the limiting factor is gas.
more gas meanyou can run more boost = POWER
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#8
long live the monster BP
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yea thanks, like i said, i found out the hard way and if you have seen my post im still have troubles and dont wish dramas on anyone. i blew my eng up 6 months ago!!!! why is it so hard to get it right
#9
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nothing worse than doing mods that result in the destruction of your engine. I bought the FCD and 3" turbo back no cat exhaust from Mazdatrix, then I still leaned out and blew the engine. I found out later that I should have upped the secondaries and feul pump and ported the wastegate when I did those mods. Maybe mazdatrix should have mentioned that but, you live you learn.
#10
Sharp Claws
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Originally Posted by NZ_87_TURBO
yea thanks, like i said, i found out the hard way and if you have seen my post im still have troubles and dont wish dramas on anyone. i blew my eng up 6 months ago!!!! why is it so hard to get it right
who told you it was safe to run over 10psi on the stock fuel setup? that is where you start pointing fingers.
obviously for higher than 8psi you need an FCD, for higher than 10psi you need more fuel so at least an SAFC is necessary but a standalone is a good stepping stone for future safe mods. a wideband is also a great investment and one of the best safety precautions you can invest in.
main point to observe is there is a huge difference in 12 psi on a stock top mount and a FMIC due to the volume differences. 12psi on a FMIC has the potential to make a bit more power than 12 psi on the TMIC also due to the added cooling efficiency of the intercooler so 12psi on the stock injectors is likely possible but 12psi on a FMIC you should probably look into upgrading at least the secondaries to 720cc and the fuel pump to a FD or walbro pump.
#13
Semper
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ok i have sort of the same question....im planning to buy an FCD, intake, exhaust, turbo timer, 720 cc secondary injectors and hks boost controller and run 10 psi... now for the mods ive done...i have a greddy type s bov and a walboro 255 fuel pump...is this setup going to be safe??
#14
Sharp Claws
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sounds safe to me but however you may be losing some power from the engine running rich, you may want to dial it in with a wideband to get the most out of your setup.
the turbo timer is a waste of money, save it for other mods. i don't see a fuel piggyback controller there like an SAFC so you will be running extremely rich past 3500RPMs so you should consider picking up one.
the turbo timer is a waste of money, save it for other mods. i don't see a fuel piggyback controller there like an SAFC so you will be running extremely rich past 3500RPMs so you should consider picking up one.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 08-28-06 at 01:51 PM.
#15
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this is to compensate for the 720's right? so if he didnt have those adn just had the fuel pump and inlet and exhuast with a ported wastegate and FCD would he still be sweet
#18
Originally Posted by 13btII
is it possable to hit 300whp on stock turbo with fmic, standalone, 1600sec inj. and other supporting mods?
If you want ~300rwhp look into a bnr hybrid, mabey a stage 2. That way you dont have to get a new manifold or wastegate.
#23
Senior Member
ive heard from many people that keeping the stock intake on helps both for battling boost creep and lean conditions on a stock ecu....
i have no idea if this is true though
i have no idea if this is true though