Hi everyone,
This is for those who are going for a 100% stock renovation.

After cleaning my 1988 GXL parts I did not like spraying clear satin rattle can paint on them. After installing them they started to rust after a few days!

I needed to find a coating that was clear so that the parts looked stock (no paint), and did not rust over a long period of time.

The ideal coating is to get them treated with the orginal type of coating from the factory, it can be done.

I am running out of time, so my idea is to coat the parts with a bee's wax mix that will protect the raw steel from rust for a long period!

I have to look into my records to find out what you mix the bee's wax into, maybe linseed oil?

I will get back to you on the proper mix, perhaps this will give you the protection and stock look we are looking for.

 

I found my homemade beeswax polish!

The one that I am going to use is made from 3 parts Walnut Oil to 1 part Bee's Wax.

There are instructions online on how to prepare this wax.

I also found my wax made with Tung Oil, it was kinda dried out. I have to see how it goes on?

After making it a couple of years ago the Walnut Oil & Bee's Wax had a very thin dried layer on top which was removed with a fingertip.
This confirms that Walnut Oil does dry over time.

I have cleaned my nuts and bolts until all the corrosion has been removed, leaving raw steel which will rust in a day!
I tried priming and painting the boltheads, but upon installing them the paint chipped away exposing the raw steel to the environment, can you say rust, rust, rust?

So, my remedy is to coat the metal with something that will stop the oxygen from getting to the metal.
A wax of some kind does prevent this, it is impervious to oxygen, what about bee's wax?

Even if the wax coating is disturbed after assembly, just apply a little bit more wax.

This wax coating should work even on plastic and rubber parts. Which I now use MolySlip Silicone Grease for these parts.

The net results are an invisible wax coating on boltheads and nuts which look completely stock!
Which will hold up to rust over a long period of time.

What do you think of my solution to nuts and bolts rusting?

 

After my last post I wondered if regular car wax on nuts and bolts would prevent them from rusting over time?

So, I will use my beeswax and tung oil polish on a bolt, and car wax on another bolt, both bolts are to be the same.

I will put them in my engine bay, and let them sit there for the winter. Come Spring I will see how they both held up.

I do like the appearance of a stock nut or bolt that has not been painted, it just looks more natural and goes with a stock restore.

I will also do a trial test on some plastic and rubber parts.

BTW, I can eat my polish!

 

I screwed the nuts that I am testing onto some bolts pushed through a cardboard box.

This box has been placed into the engine bay for the winter season.

In the spring I will take pictures of the nuts and see how they fared.

 

Hi everyone,
I got to thinking about my homemade waxes and wondered about the under hood temperatures when the engine is hot on a sunny July day?

I found out the carnauba wax has the highest melting point at 180-187°F. This is the reason it is used in car polishes.

So, I will be making a batch with carnauba wax and tung oil to try out.

I have the wax, now to locate my bottle of tung oil! One part wax to three parts oil.
I make it in an old pan on the stove, slowly melt the wax first the add the oil.
Once it is thoroughly mixed I pour it into one of those preserving jars to cool.