Stock Boostgauge doesn't work when it is cold?
04-03-05, 07:32 PM
#1
Stock Boostgauge doesn't work when it is cold?
In the mornings going to work (around 50 degrees) and at night and stuff like that when its colder. My boost gauge won't work.
Anyone ever had a problem like this? Could you fix it.
I have a 87 t2, typical bad grounds, like my clock goes on and off soemtimes, ned to smack it to get it working
oh, and i have noticed it responding to changes in the light switch like no lights, running lights and headlights.
although this usually has no effect at all.
Anyone? Thanks,
Ben Martin
Anyone ever had a problem like this? Could you fix it.
I have a 87 t2, typical bad grounds, like my clock goes on and off soemtimes, ned to smack it to get it working
oh, and i have noticed it responding to changes in the light switch like no lights, running lights and headlights.
although this usually has no effect at all.
Anyone? Thanks,
Ben Martin
Last edited by Node; 04-03-05 at 07:37 PM.
04-03-05, 10:03 PM
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Not bad grounds, but rather cold solder joints, and or (in the case of the gauge) corroded screw contacts on the back of the gauge cluster.
Pull the gauge cluster, unscrew the screws on the back of the boost and oil pressure gauges. Put a little conductive grease at the bottom tip and bottom of the head of the screw. Screw the screws back in.
Should solve the problem (it does 99% of the time). PM me if it does not and I'll tell you want to do next.
As far as the clock warning panel, the panel needs to be re-soldered, or replaced. I have rebuilt ones available on my webstorr/website, or if you want to do it yourself, you will remove the clock warning panel, open it up (three screws), remove all the solder from the pins that the cars harness plugs into, and then flow new solder in.
Pull the gauge cluster, unscrew the screws on the back of the boost and oil pressure gauges. Put a little conductive grease at the bottom tip and bottom of the head of the screw. Screw the screws back in.
Should solve the problem (it does 99% of the time). PM me if it does not and I'll tell you want to do next.
As far as the clock warning panel, the panel needs to be re-soldered, or replaced. I have rebuilt ones available on my webstorr/website, or if you want to do it yourself, you will remove the clock warning panel, open it up (three screws), remove all the solder from the pins that the cars harness plugs into, and then flow new solder in.
04-04-05, 01:26 AM
#4
redryder, you dont understand.....if the stock boost gauge doesnt work, that could be a very big problem seeing how it is run by the ecu and boost sensor, and could be a sign of a problem with either of those.
if its just the gauge itself, i really dont give a crap. my defi boost gauge IS in the mail.
if its just the gauge itself, i really dont give a crap. my defi boost gauge IS in the mail.
04-04-05, 12:32 PM
#6
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I have been running an S-AFC & a mechanical boost gauge for over 9 months.
I have observed that even when the dash gauge is intermittant, the signal from the sensor to the ECU is always rock solid.
Mark - thanks for the tip..
I have observed that even when the dash gauge is intermittant, the signal from the sensor to the ECU is always rock solid.
Mark - thanks for the tip..
04-04-05, 01:46 PM
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Node
redryder, you dont understand.....if the stock boost gauge doesnt work, that could be a very big problem seeing how it is run by the ecu and boost sensor, and could be a sign of a problem with either of those.
if its just the gauge itself, i really dont give a crap. my defi boost gauge IS in the mail.
if its just the gauge itself, i really dont give a crap. my defi boost gauge IS in the mail.
I have never ever ever ever seen a pressure sensor fail on a FC.
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04-04-05, 06:43 PM
#9
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Yeah, but he DOES have a point.. No boost signal is something that requires attention. Just because you havent seen it happen, doesnt mean it WONT happen.
And the twin scroll system wouldn't work without a boost sensor and properlly running ECU anyway.
04-04-05, 07:13 PM
#10
Cars real big, Turbos real big, exhaust leaks real big. Everything real big!
so good to know that it is about 99% the gauge, good to know. I will give your suggestion a try though mark, you're great for us series 4 people with electrical problems
I still am going to rewire my fuelpump with a relay and do some heavyduty grounding straps.,
-Ben
do any other gauges have problems like this? Should I add a lil electrical grease lovin to all of the contacts like the one that I'm doing to the boost gauge?
so good to know that it is about 99% the gauge, good to know. I will give your suggestion a try though mark, you're great for us series 4 people with electrical problems
I still am going to rewire my fuelpump with a relay and do some heavyduty grounding straps.,
-Ben
do any other gauges have problems like this? Should I add a lil electrical grease lovin to all of the contacts like the one that I'm doing to the boost gauge?
04-04-05, 07:17 PM
#11
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by Node
do any other gauges have problems like this? Should I add a lil electrical grease lovin to all of the contacts like the one that I'm doing to the boost gauge?
And make sure it is conductive grease. My local kragen and Pep boys auto parts stores has it, so I am assuming it is fairly common.
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