Still won't run right... unhooke tps... runs the same as with tps
03-12-04, 08:28 PM
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Still won't run right... unhooke tps... runs the same as with tps
Ohhkay...
So...
Thanks NZconvertible from the previous thread... You're right.. it should seem obvious.
Anyhow...
So.. I broke it down to bareblock again, to try and find some stupid vac leak. Got it all back together, 2 hours later... Start it up. Same problem, though not as bad. Before it wouldn't run by itself, and wouldn't run below 4krpm. Now you can pet her down to 1k, shes not happy there, but she will stay there if you don't move the accel pedal.
So... After doing this... I came in to check how to adjust the TPS thinking maybe its just something really stupid, like the tps is whack. Well.. I started reading and thought... wtf, did i even plug the tps back in?
So I go into the garage: nope... plug it back in, hop in, thinking she might start up right away and be happy.
Nope.
Same problem. So is the TPS even doing anything at all? Whats so great about telling the computer where the throttle is, if it doesn't make a difference? Almost ran better w/o it anyhow.
So...
No one can really give me a definate answer on a few things. The injector bleeds are all capped off. Why?
Well, one of those nipples goes before the TB plates. Its a good question which one though. And The FPR is attatched to the nipple on the front of the Dynamic Chamber. Why? Well... it needs a vacuum right... this is one of the only nipples i know goes directly to the runners...
And the pressure sensor... well its attatched to a nipple on the UIM thats next to the injector bleeder. Why? I don't know, maybe because it was close. Maybe because when I tried running without the pressure sensor even hooked up it didn't seem to make much a difference.
Vac leaks are ruled out IMO, I sprayed carbcleaner while trying to hold the rpms steady around 3k... the rpms moved some... but they haven't been steady since i tried starting the car first time in six months a few days ago.
So whats the issue here, incompetent mechanic? I'll admit I don't have a ******* clue whats causing this. Can someone offer any information about which way to go? Vac leaks are pretty much ruled out at this point (again IMO,). The block has been torn down three times now to ensure that anything that needed to be capped, got capped and sealed.
Any ideas folks, really wanted to get her driveable this weekend. I'm flustered... and out of ideas.
Thanks
EDIT: 1990 s5 gtu. background: auto-->5spd swap. Removed emissions, no BAC, no air pump, no ACV, removed rats nest, no p/s, no a/c. Yes, this is a driver car. TB mod (removed second plates). aux ports are closed at the moment. they will be actuated by an electronic air pump, however i see no point in stressing that when the car will not run correctly to begin with...
Also went premix, removed oil injectors: capped with solid bolts.
So...
Thanks NZconvertible from the previous thread... You're right.. it should seem obvious.
Anyhow...
So.. I broke it down to bareblock again, to try and find some stupid vac leak. Got it all back together, 2 hours later... Start it up. Same problem, though not as bad. Before it wouldn't run by itself, and wouldn't run below 4krpm. Now you can pet her down to 1k, shes not happy there, but she will stay there if you don't move the accel pedal.
So... After doing this... I came in to check how to adjust the TPS thinking maybe its just something really stupid, like the tps is whack. Well.. I started reading and thought... wtf, did i even plug the tps back in?
So I go into the garage: nope... plug it back in, hop in, thinking she might start up right away and be happy.
Nope.
Same problem. So is the TPS even doing anything at all? Whats so great about telling the computer where the throttle is, if it doesn't make a difference? Almost ran better w/o it anyhow.
So...
No one can really give me a definate answer on a few things. The injector bleeds are all capped off. Why?
Well, one of those nipples goes before the TB plates. Its a good question which one though. And The FPR is attatched to the nipple on the front of the Dynamic Chamber. Why? Well... it needs a vacuum right... this is one of the only nipples i know goes directly to the runners...
And the pressure sensor... well its attatched to a nipple on the UIM thats next to the injector bleeder. Why? I don't know, maybe because it was close. Maybe because when I tried running without the pressure sensor even hooked up it didn't seem to make much a difference.
Vac leaks are ruled out IMO, I sprayed carbcleaner while trying to hold the rpms steady around 3k... the rpms moved some... but they haven't been steady since i tried starting the car first time in six months a few days ago.
So whats the issue here, incompetent mechanic? I'll admit I don't have a ******* clue whats causing this. Can someone offer any information about which way to go? Vac leaks are pretty much ruled out at this point (again IMO,). The block has been torn down three times now to ensure that anything that needed to be capped, got capped and sealed.
Any ideas folks, really wanted to get her driveable this weekend. I'm flustered... and out of ideas.
Thanks
EDIT: 1990 s5 gtu. background: auto-->5spd swap. Removed emissions, no BAC, no air pump, no ACV, removed rats nest, no p/s, no a/c. Yes, this is a driver car. TB mod (removed second plates). aux ports are closed at the moment. they will be actuated by an electronic air pump, however i see no point in stressing that when the car will not run correctly to begin with...
Also went premix, removed oil injectors: capped with solid bolts.
Last edited by Kenteth; 03-12-04 at 08:52 PM.
03-12-04, 08:51 PM
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I moved the FPR to the vac nipple on the LIM that points towards the firewall.
AFM looks good. Worked fine when removed 7 months ago. there is a bare wire in the harness, but all the wires plug into the correct pluggy thing. I'm assuming that this wire is an isolator, or ground? Anyhow, all the wires plug into the AFM ok.
Ground:
I made a couple extra grounds. 4ga that goes from the batter to the engine (its bolted to where you put the chains at if you were to pull the engine). also added a ground that grounds to the body. Otherwise, the main ground is just like it used to be.
Ignition: I 'm not aware of any problems. I just changed spark plugs, and didn't notice a big improvement, though the old plugs were defiantely fouled.
AFM looks good. Worked fine when removed 7 months ago. there is a bare wire in the harness, but all the wires plug into the correct pluggy thing. I'm assuming that this wire is an isolator, or ground? Anyhow, all the wires plug into the AFM ok.
Ground:
I made a couple extra grounds. 4ga that goes from the batter to the engine (its bolted to where you put the chains at if you were to pull the engine). also added a ground that grounds to the body. Otherwise, the main ground is just like it used to be.
Ignition: I 'm not aware of any problems. I just changed spark plugs, and didn't notice a big improvement, though the old plugs were defiantely fouled.
03-12-04, 10:26 PM
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What have you done in the way of seeing if the throttle plates are set to the manual? WE assume that your throttle cable has a touch of slack in it.
And the thermowax and fast idle cam/screw. Removed? Adjusted to not hold the throttle open when cold???
To find out which nipple goes prior to the throttle body.....buy a good grade cigar and a long vacuum hose. Blow smoke in the suspect nipple. Did the smoke exit the hole in front of the throttle body? When you find the nipple that exibits this trait....connect the fuel injector bleeds to that nipple. Although a lack of air to the air bleeds would cause a lower idle, not faster.
Is the small screw that we refer to as the throttle set screw keeping the throttle plates open???? Small screw about a quater inch long with a 8mm wrench size jam nut on it. On the aft side of the throttle body.
And the thermowax and fast idle cam/screw. Removed? Adjusted to not hold the throttle open when cold???
To find out which nipple goes prior to the throttle body.....buy a good grade cigar and a long vacuum hose. Blow smoke in the suspect nipple. Did the smoke exit the hole in front of the throttle body? When you find the nipple that exibits this trait....connect the fuel injector bleeds to that nipple. Although a lack of air to the air bleeds would cause a lower idle, not faster.
Is the small screw that we refer to as the throttle set screw keeping the throttle plates open???? Small screw about a quater inch long with a 8mm wrench size jam nut on it. On the aft side of the throttle body.
03-13-04, 12:26 AM
#6
...94% correct.
Damn man...sucks to be you...lol...:p...had this same problem and it eventually drove me to abandoning and parting out the car.
BUT...
Found a number of things that were causing me problems. the biggest were a number of leaks in the intake manifold. I ended up re-serfacing all the manifold surfaces and sealing them together with an enamel paint (best gaskets, worse mess). Every injector seal was leaking as well, pulling in vacume. There are a couple of vacume ports on the dynamic chamber that I, some how, managed to always overlook (I'm not assuming you have this problem). TPS was totally shot all to hell. 6-ports were stuck, and the diaphrams were leaking (the LIM was very weathered so I doubt it's a typical problem).
I'll post some more should anything come to mind. Basically just make sure your manifold surfaces are sealing propperly. After I addressed all these issue the engine ran very well...too bad I had sold it already...
BUT...
Found a number of things that were causing me problems. the biggest were a number of leaks in the intake manifold. I ended up re-serfacing all the manifold surfaces and sealing them together with an enamel paint (best gaskets, worse mess). Every injector seal was leaking as well, pulling in vacume. There are a couple of vacume ports on the dynamic chamber that I, some how, managed to always overlook (I'm not assuming you have this problem). TPS was totally shot all to hell. 6-ports were stuck, and the diaphrams were leaking (the LIM was very weathered so I doubt it's a typical problem).
I'll post some more should anything come to mind. Basically just make sure your manifold surfaces are sealing propperly. After I addressed all these issue the engine ran very well...too bad I had sold it already...
03-13-04, 01:16 AM
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Originally posted by HAILERS
What have you done in the way of seeing if the throttle plates are set to the manual? WE assume that your throttle cable has a touch of slack in it.
What have you done in the way of seeing if the throttle plates are set to the manual? WE assume that your throttle cable has a touch of slack in it.
It does have a bit of slack, equals out to about .2" on the pedal end...
And the thermowax and fast idle cam/screw. Removed? Adjusted to not hold the throttle open when cold???
To find out which nipple goes prior to the throttle body.....buy a good grade cigar and a long vacuum hose. Blow smoke in the suspect nipple. Did the smoke exit the hole in front of the throttle body? When you find the nipple that exibits this trait....connect the fuel injector bleeds to that nipple. Although a lack of air to the air bleeds would cause a lower idle, not faster.
Is the small screw that we refer to as the throttle set screw keeping the throttle plates open???? Small screw about a quater inch long with a 8mm wrench size jam nut on it. On the aft side of the throttle body.
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03-13-04, 01:17 AM
#8
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Originally posted by cwsttu
omg idle problems SUCK.. any luck with yours? still a no go on mine
omg idle problems SUCK.. any luck with yours? still a no go on mine
it will be the 4th breakdown to bareblock
03-13-04, 01:20 AM
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Originally posted by Makenzie71
Damn man...sucks to be you...lol...:p...had this same problem and it eventually drove me to abandoning and parting out the car.
BUT...
Found a number of things that were causing me problems. the biggest were a number of leaks in the intake manifold. I ended up re-serfacing all the manifold surfaces and sealing them together with an enamel paint (best gaskets, worse mess). Every injector seal was leaking as well, pulling in vacume. There are a couple of vacume ports on the dynamic chamber that I, some how, managed to always overlook (I'm not assuming you have this problem). TPS was totally shot all to hell. 6-ports were stuck, and the diaphrams were leaking (the LIM was very weathered so I doubt it's a typical problem).
I'll post some more should anything come to mind. Basically just make sure your manifold surfaces are sealing propperly. After I addressed all these issue the engine ran very well...too bad I had sold it already...
Damn man...sucks to be you...lol...:p...had this same problem and it eventually drove me to abandoning and parting out the car.
BUT...
Found a number of things that were causing me problems. the biggest were a number of leaks in the intake manifold. I ended up re-serfacing all the manifold surfaces and sealing them together with an enamel paint (best gaskets, worse mess). Every injector seal was leaking as well, pulling in vacume. There are a couple of vacume ports on the dynamic chamber that I, some how, managed to always overlook (I'm not assuming you have this problem). TPS was totally shot all to hell. 6-ports were stuck, and the diaphrams were leaking (the LIM was very weathered so I doubt it's a typical problem).
I'll post some more should anything come to mind. Basically just make sure your manifold surfaces are sealing propperly. After I addressed all these issue the engine ran very well...too bad I had sold it already...
It does suck... vacuum. I dunno, makes me want to go out and buy a carb and manifold honestly...
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