Terrh

iTrader: (7)

Mods:
K+N cone filter, TID, removed secondary throttle plates
s5 Turbocharger, NO boost control, 5PSI in 1st, 7PSI in 2nd, 10PSI in 3rd (7 at redline), 11-12 psi in 4th and 5th.
3" exhaust, 3" straight through mufflers
720CC injectors, Apexi S-AFC (set stock across the board except after 3000RPM in the WOT map where it's set at +15%
FCD

anyways, it's still too slow.

what do I do now?

KingCobraV9

iTrader: (2)

ummmmm to slow for what? a viper lol common man my na will beat any lil ricer i come across for the most part. what is it your shooting for here

ddub

BNR stage x (whatever stage you want), at least a stage 2, I'd suggest a stage 3

With a boost controller and proper tuning with your AFC

West TX RX-7

60-1 (TD04), fmic, haltech, boost controler, injecters

ForsakenRX7

Get A Boost Controller

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

NO!
do not get a boost controller to raise boost on the stock turbo!
You will not get much more power out of your car with a boost controller.
You will however have the boost come on quicker. but using the boost controller to raise the boost to over 12psi which is what he is getting isn't going to net him any more power infact it will only lead to a premature ending to his turbocharger. and it will simply heat the intake charge more than charging it (compressing)

In short the boost controller in this situation would just allow the boost to come on quicker!

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

I'm probably going to buy a boost controller, but NOT to add boost, just to add boost in the lower gears.

so a turbo upgrade and an FMIC are the next required steps?

I think I'm going to skip an FMIC and use water injection instead.

Bukwild

Go with a standalone and full t04. Don't use a piggy back or some piggy back hybrid of a stock pos turbo.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Port your damn wastegate so it stops creeping so much, THEN get a boost controller.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I agree with sonic rat! also hybrids are not pieces of ****! I don't know how fast you want to go but with my hybrid and my "pos" piggy back with an rtek 1.7 my car hawls ***! I could easily beat just about anything on the streets (not including z06 and vipers). There are plenty of people with hybrid turbos that can vouch for them!

gsracer

Tune it with a wideband o2 sensor because I guarentee that you would be nearly pegging out most wideband o2 sensors with +15 percent on 720cc secondaries will on the stock turbo at 12 pounds.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yeah it also looks like if he where to get the rtek 1.7 it would tune those 720's witch would most likely add hp plus help prevent detonation. at 125 you can't beat the price of reliability.

Bukwild

This member wants more power. Why not do it right and go standalone and a nice Garrett GT series turbo? But the building block of any car is the EMS. You can say all the bullshit you want and try to talk around it and use piggy backs and all types of other crap all you want but at the end of the day Standalone is the way to go.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

it all depends on what you want. If all a person is looking for is slightly more than the stocker can put out, I see no good reason why a nice sized hybrid would be a bad idea. Can still get you ~300rwhp, run 12s, have almost instant boost response, and all without breaking the bank, or wiring headaches that a standalone can cause. Now if you are shooting for more than that, yes, definately go standalone and a full aftermarket setup. Ive thought alot about this in the past few months, and just recently sold my Haltech and Panspeed turbo setup in favor of a hybrid and piggybacks. There is a definite advantage in the full range of ignition and fuel control that a standalone can give you, but its not like a piggyback AFC is a terrible thing, just not quite as versatile.

gsracer

e6k/e11/wolf etc = $$$$$$$
GT 35r/GT 40 = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

He wants a quick car, not a fire breathing, earth shaking, roll cage wielding super car. A hybrid turbo with a piggy back can easily support 285-300rwhp, which would result in a relatively quick car that should be trapping around 110 or higher.

Bukwild

no way 300rwhp safely with a ecu chip and stock air flow. Not to mention 300rwhp with a top mount? You can buy a EMS system for 1100-1500 dollars or you can get a rebuild for about the same. Its up to user.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

trapping 110-120MPH would ROCK. That's my goal.

gsracer, you hit the nail on the head.

And yeah, I want to avoid spending buckets of money on this...

What's a hybrid turbo cost to have built?

I might go to the rtek chip for the better timing control, and just use my S-AFC

I don't know what the a/f ratios are, I'm going to book some dyno time as soon as I can.

I hear a strange popping noise at high RPM in 4th and 5th that concerns me, and that's with 94 octane and the 720s set like that.
HOPEFULLY it's pig rich, but I want to make SURE.

gsracer

Yes, the stock intercooler will need to go.

What do you think fc owners did 10 years ago when there were nop aftermarket EMS options? There are a variety of ways to achieve 300rwhp. None will be as effective and offer the throttle response and non WOT smoothness, no one is debating that. AIC's, safc's, and even carbs with locked dizzy's are all capable of supporting that kind of power.

For 1500 you can buy an AIC, cleaned 550's, a hybrid turbo, and an old greddy/hks front mount kit. Timing can be retarded at the CAS if that becomes a valid concern.

On the stock ecu/hybrid/ combo you'll probably hit the wall near 112-114 traps; assuming your car isn't lightened an extreme amount.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

you can get the hybrid turbo's from bnr at rx7store.com

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

car is lightened as much as I'm willing to do, weighs 2700LB with 1/4 tank of gas.
that's with a/c and p/s intact, this is a daily driver, I'm not losing those.

why rebuild?

I paid $150 for this motor and it runs fine, when I blow it up I've got 2 s5 TII cores that I'll turn into a solid motor, but I don't forsee this one going in the next year or two.

what about water injecton/water spray systems for the intercooler?

it's pretty cool up here, temperatures are rarely in the 90's even in mid summer.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

as far as water injection some people use it rather than a front mount and seem to be doing good like that! I like less hassle. Less hassle to me is not having to refill the water every fillup plus if I forgot to do it once bam there goes the motor and I am pretty forgetfull. I would love water injection my self with my front mounted intercooler that way it would be added protection plus if I forgot one fill up I would still be protected.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Give me another month or so, and Ill prove it No way I would stay with the stock TMIC though, and I do have a pretty hefty streetport. The new Rtek chip retards timing above 9psi, so there is a better margin of safety with that. I dont think anyone is disagreeing that an aftermarket EMS can/will make more power, but proper tuning on piggybacks will do the job just fine.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Correct, proper tuning on a piggyback (along with the proper REQUIREMENTS, such as fuel, injectors/etc) will do just fine. Christ I'm running 17psi on my 6port (n/a) s4 block using the N/A ecu and an s-afc with a BNR hybrid. Guess what, no dead motor for me! (surprising though considering it's got 180k miles on it and counting!)

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

damn dude! 17psi thats nuckin' futs lol. Your car must be crazy fast!

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

No way do you know what you are talking about. It has been done, will be done again... and will continue to be done. With a Top Mount and a good hybrid with an SAFC, and 1200cc injectors my freind made 375 RWHP. So it can be done! Granted that was with a street port but regardless there is no reason why 300 can't be achieved.