AreExSeven

Ok. My Atkins rebuild has 250 miles on it, and probably 4 hours runtime in addition to those miles (I don't drive it but around town cause I still havent gotten it aligned and don't wanna bounce around at high speeds). My problem is high initial idle, as well as fluctuating idle. When I start the car up after being cold, like say in the morning when I go to work, it revs up to anywhere between 2k and 3k RPM, which is of course normal with that aws ****. But then it doesn't go back down after the 17 seconds of whatever the given time period is, but instead it will stay up for about 2-3 minutes, sometimes more. Then once its done with that, it begins fluctuating, which would be normal if it stopped once warmed up, however, it continues to do it. I can drive the car for 20 mins and when i come up to a stoplight and go into neutral it will continue to bounce even then. And even odder is it does not bounce between any specific RPM range, instead it varies from time to time. Some times it will bounce between 2000 and 2500, sometimes between 1500 and 2000, and sometimes between 800 and 1300 or so. Now my question is, is there something I need to fix to stop causing this? Or is it normal for an engine still in its break-in period?

My thoughts first turn to the ECU or TPS. But am I correct in thinking that the TPS on series 5 cars is auto adjusting? Meaning it should know where to set itself, or do I need to somehow adjust it? Also, I have heard of cases where the ECU needs to readjust itself to the new engine, and it can take a good amount of time to do this. Could this be my problem? If so, will it fix itself on its own, or do I need to somehow reset the ECU manually?

Another thing that enters my mind is maybe a malfunction in the AWS? I mention this because it seems to follow the pattern of a normal warm-up sequence for our cars. I never removed anything for that system when I put the rebuild in. The only part I removed was the bottle by the charcoal canister, but I believe that is only for sub-zero start assist, so I don't think it is that.

I also think it could have something to do with the BAC valve or some idle adjust setting, seeing as it is an idle problem. I know when I was pulling things apart, I played with the screw on the BACv, thinking it was what I needed to remove to take it off, and I'm not sure whether or not I set it back to its original position. And I know there are alot of idle setting screws on the TB, and I am wondering if any of those are possibly causing a problem?

Sorry about the long post, and thanks in advance for any suggestions you guys may be able to come up with.

SaabGuy

tps's can be adjusted on any series car. Thats the first thing you have to fix.

The BAC doesnt do anything usefull unless its jammed open. Try applying juice to it with a 9v battery (briefly). You can also try unplugging it from the harness.

Not sure on how to "reset" the ecu. S4 ecus blow. S5??? hmm.. try disconnecting bat and apply brake for 30 seconds maybe...

AreExSeven

Ok thanks for the ideas.

Anyone know how to check/adjust the TPS on a Series 5 car? Every write up I've seen has only shown series 4.

Thanks

ducetius

I posted this for you before,

http://www.johnr.com/tps.html

you seem to think that it is for an s4 but

"Adjustment tips for the Throttle Position Sensor(s) (TPS) on a 2nd Gen RX-7 (mine is a 1990, if yours is a 86-88, or a turbo, details may differ slightly.)"

1990 = S5

I have a s5 tii and it works for me also the FSM also has the adjustment

page 82 - you will need a checker lamp, same as S4 so you can find instructions on how to make one there if following the FSM

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...tems_turbo.pdf

However, I had the same problem, mine was a vacuum leak, so if the tps adjustment doesn't settle things down look for a leak. My BAC was also a bit sticky and wasn't closing properly but that just resulted in a slightly high idle (1200 rpm)...fixed now.